TAREK

Art,

Thanks for the clarification. When I disassembled and cleaned the WUR yesterday, I saw that there wasn't any movement possible at the 'socket' of the pin. Or is it so minute that I will never be able to see it visually? I removed the plate that held the socket in place and I saw a flat surface underneath. It seemed that the back of the socket was flat against a mating surface. I retightened everything after cleaning.

Now I'm wondering if the 4 holding screws on that plate need to back off a little, in order to allow movement of that socket.

I had no idea I could run fuel with the WUR open. Thanks for the clarification on that too.

I drove around last night. First 5 miles bearable. Then parked for hours and drove again...ran the worst ever. I couldn't do more than 50 mph. This has been frustrating. Thanks again for the help.

Tarek

art

Valve movement is very subtle, you can't see or feel the movement. Loosening the screws will allow fuel to leak, so don't run it that way. Valve diaphragm is under there, and it is fairly delicate, so be careful.

TAREK

Hi Art,
I ran it without the cover and without any pressure on the pin socket, the pressure is very high still. Pushing on the socket with a sharp tool didn't make a difference while the engine is running. It made a very small difference when pushing on it and only the fuel pump is running. I guess that proves the valve is not operating correctly, and most likely plugged, especially that I disconnected the return line from teh WUR at some point and the flow wasn't strong.

any recomnendations on taking the inlet/outlet housing out of the WUR for cleaning? is that possible? it looks pretty tight in there, so I would want to ask so I don't risk breaking it during disassembly. I bet that if I can get to that valve and clean it, it will be back to normal

Thanks again
Tarek

'79SC that stole my first holiday in a lonnnng time

art

Take everything out and put in an ultrasonic cleaner if you can. With everything out, backflush with solvent if that is all you have. You will need to take the valve apart, which is no big deal, just be careful as the valve is a very thin 'membrane' of steel that can be torn. Not rocket science, just normal care will be fine.

TAREK

Hi Art,

I didn't have or know where to get new gaskets for putting things back together. I had already used parts cleaners but without removing the valve.

...so in a weak moment, and just before Fedex was picking up for the last time, I sent it out for rebuild. Same day turn around and I should have it back today and might install tonight. Meamwhile I'm driving the car with the guage in place of the WUR, and using eth valve for adjusting pressure manually.

...let's see how this goes from here. Wondering if rebuilding and setting to "factory spec" for cold and warm will make it a plug and play affair. We'll see later tonight

Thanks again for the help. I will post the update
Tarek

art

There aren't any gaskets, just an o-ring that can be re-used.

Good luck with the rebuild.

theiceman

I am really looking forward to the update on this one as it seems like a good problem.

cccscotland

Did the rebuilt WUR solve your problems?

TAREK

sorry everyone...it took a while, but here's the update. The car runs FANTASTIC on the rebuilt WUR. I have a high idle, but I'm sure it's not related.

Thanks everyone for your help and listening ears on my problems...especially Tim and of course Art!!!