I need some 911 lowering 101.
#1
Racer
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I need some 911 lowering 101.
Finally got the new wheels and tires for my 78SC and have studied the info on lowering in "101 Projects for your 911" but have some questions.
Front: Do you turn the bolts in the front clockwise or counterclockwise? I assume counterclockwise to back the bolt out. How far do you turn before the car moves down (several rotations or just a small bit?).
Back: Same question as above. After you loosen the bolt closest to the torsion bar, do you turn the lowering bolt clockwise or counterclockwise? Also what bolt size is that?
Thanks in advance, I am learning.
Ulrich
Front: Do you turn the bolts in the front clockwise or counterclockwise? I assume counterclockwise to back the bolt out. How far do you turn before the car moves down (several rotations or just a small bit?).
Back: Same question as above. After you loosen the bolt closest to the torsion bar, do you turn the lowering bolt clockwise or counterclockwise? Also what bolt size is that?
Thanks in advance, I am learning.
Ulrich
#2
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it's been a while, so hopefully someone else will chime in. the fronts are as you suggest. if the car is at US spec 4wd height, it takes several turns. you may need to drive it between adjustments to settle the suspension. you can also "bounce" the suspension, but be careful if you push too hard on the fender (ask me how I know), use the bumper. the back is another story altogether - unless you have an aftermarket suspension, the torsion bars need to come out and be repositioned on the spring plates. it takes a few tries to get it right, so be patient.
#3
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Front: Do you turn the bolts in the front clockwise or counterclockwise?
Clockwise for up. But you have to look at the bolt, because too much adjustment will make it lose contact & you must reindex the T bar end - no biggie though. One revolution = 1/4" (I think - might be 1/2" though)
Back: Same question as above. After you loosen the bolt closest to the torsion bar, do you turn the lowering bolt clockwise or counterclockwise? Also what bolt size is that?The closest is the lock bolt. Unloosen this first with hands & fingers clear in case the springplate smacks down. Then loosen the adjustment bolt. You don't have much adjustment here though - only 3/4" or so. Chances are you will have to reindex which is much more involved
36mm very thin wrench to fit around back - from Porsche shops or some say you can get it at a bicycle shop. This wrench wears out quickly btw. The front of both bolts is 22mm or 24mm ??? Standard anyway . . . Alignment is required
Ian
#4
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Join Date: Dec 2005
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Maybe a professional here?
I just got new tires and the front of my car was way too high and looked funny. So, I had a professional shop that tunes race car suspensions (and the like)lower it and weight balance the car. They even used my body weight as a ballast when doing it. I also upgraded to turbo tie-rods and added a bump steer kit while I was at it. It is "dialed in" and drives awesome!
I guess my point is... rather then guess, you might want someone who has tools that most of us don't have to handle it and get the job done right (the first time).
Joel
I guess my point is... rather then guess, you might want someone who has tools that most of us don't have to handle it and get the job done right (the first time).
Joel
#5
Should be counterclockwise to lower the nose, if you decide to DIY remember to unwind both sides exactly the same amount - count your rotations.
Click my sig to see 24.5"F /23.75" R height. Corner balancing and a good alignment is mandatory if you really want it to drive right. Have it done by a Porsche specialist - you won't regret it.
rjp
Click my sig to see 24.5"F /23.75" R height. Corner balancing and a good alignment is mandatory if you really want it to drive right. Have it done by a Porsche specialist - you won't regret it.
rjp
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#8
Originally Posted by rnln
Randy P,
Your car sit beautiful. Is it harsh on rough surface road?
Your car sit beautiful. Is it harsh on rough surface road?
rjp
#9
Rennlist Member
When I lowered my car, I got some white touch up paint and put an arrow on each bolt head pointing to the front of the car. Then when I made the adjustment, I knew how much it had turned.
#10
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Ulrich
One things that bears emphasizing with a 911 is that you have to view it as a system. You can't just lower the front & walk away. Or the rear. Or one side vs another. The chassis is very rigid as you will see first hand when you jack it up. What you do at one end, impacts the other end too.
So, height, corner balance, & alignment (eg camber) are all related & changing one, changes them all. That's why many suggest you leave it to a pro.
It can be done at home, but only if you're willing to learn how to do height, corner balance, & alignment - all in the comfort of your own garage.
Ian
One things that bears emphasizing with a 911 is that you have to view it as a system. You can't just lower the front & walk away. Or the rear. Or one side vs another. The chassis is very rigid as you will see first hand when you jack it up. What you do at one end, impacts the other end too.
So, height, corner balance, & alignment (eg camber) are all related & changing one, changes them all. That's why many suggest you leave it to a pro.
It can be done at home, but only if you're willing to learn how to do height, corner balance, & alignment - all in the comfort of your own garage.
Ian
#13
Rennlist Member
The car has four corners, left front, right front, left rear, and right rear. Corner balanicing is adjusting the suspsension where all corners are balanced in relation to the weight of the car, including the simulated weight of the driver as if he was in the car.
#15
Rennlist Member
I've done several lowering jobs on different 911's. A DIYer can set the ride heights for front and rear, but when it comes to corner balancing, toe-in, camber, etc., it's best left to the guys who have the equipment to fine tune it and do it right. I always take mine in after any lowering job.