Stops rust fast????
01-16-2006, 11:19 PM
#1
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Stops rust fast????
I have a 73 targa. I am replacing the front floor and pedal board. I have some more rust on the drivers side on the door pillar. not bad enough to replace the door pillar, but i also have some at the base of the windsheild pillar. the rest of the car is in great shape but i do see surface rust. i want to stop it dead with out spending a million dollars. Do things like navel jelly and aspho really work? I used ospho once but did not have the car long enough to see if it actually worked..... thoughts?
01-18-2006, 11:10 AM
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Be careful- some of the rust neutralizers are acidic and have to be neutralized after application, I have no knowledge about osphos' and ain't a chemist. I've used a rust spray(permatex?) before and found that it only made a thin scab which chipped off over the deeper stuff, so whatever is used has to be able to penetrate and seal. Use a lot.
Galvanization is a zinc coating which acts as a sacrificial layer-the zinc gets eaten up first and then the metal starts. Some of the sprays (like Por15's Metalready) are acidic zinc/phosphate which eats rust and leaves a coating after washed with water. If it's not applied long enough to change the surface, however, the water WILL make it flash rust overnight.
Por15 is a good coating(not really a paint) for the ugly uses. It leaves a lumpy surface when brushed on and doesn't like to stick to anything except rough surfaces. It says that it cures without leaving the micro-pinholes that evaporating solvents in paint leave. It doesn't fix or stop the rust underneath, so it's efficiency is probably best when the whole area is sealed to stop air/water penetration. Buy the small six-pack cans and mask off carefully.
I just got finished spraying my rockers/internals/torsion tube with homemade Waxoyl (12oz paraffin, dissolved in 2-3 quarts turpentine, with a quart of mineral oil). I also threw in a pint of rustfix for good luck, heated it up(this is very important) and sprayed using a garden sprayer with a small hose and a homeade tip. It was kind of a nightmare because I forgot to warm up the sprayer as well, but it got the job done. The Alaskan fishermen supposedly use fish oil on rust to slow it down, but anything is probably better than exposed metal.
Galvanization is a zinc coating which acts as a sacrificial layer-the zinc gets eaten up first and then the metal starts. Some of the sprays (like Por15's Metalready) are acidic zinc/phosphate which eats rust and leaves a coating after washed with water. If it's not applied long enough to change the surface, however, the water WILL make it flash rust overnight.
Por15 is a good coating(not really a paint) for the ugly uses. It leaves a lumpy surface when brushed on and doesn't like to stick to anything except rough surfaces. It says that it cures without leaving the micro-pinholes that evaporating solvents in paint leave. It doesn't fix or stop the rust underneath, so it's efficiency is probably best when the whole area is sealed to stop air/water penetration. Buy the small six-pack cans and mask off carefully.
I just got finished spraying my rockers/internals/torsion tube with homemade Waxoyl (12oz paraffin, dissolved in 2-3 quarts turpentine, with a quart of mineral oil). I also threw in a pint of rustfix for good luck, heated it up(this is very important) and sprayed using a garden sprayer with a small hose and a homeade tip. It was kind of a nightmare because I forgot to warm up the sprayer as well, but it got the job done. The Alaskan fishermen supposedly use fish oil on rust to slow it down, but anything is probably better than exposed metal.
