What is the torque spec for 911 wheel lugs?
07-26-2002, 01:45 PM
#4
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The spec is 130 Nm or 96 foot-pounds. I have a hard time setting my torque wrench to 96 foot-pounds, but 130 has a nice clear line.
This is a "dry" torque spec so if someone has put copper anti-seize paste on the bolts, clean it off! Any lubricant on the threads will result in the actual torque value being much higher when the wrench clicks.
This is a "dry" torque spec so if someone has put copper anti-seize paste on the bolts, clean it off! Any lubricant on the threads will result in the actual torque value being much higher when the wrench clicks.
07-29-2002, 11:20 AM
#5
Hello "Urban Sasquatch":
With all due respect, I believe you are wrong on the dry basis for torque. I've had a lengthy discussion about this when I first came aboard the PorscheFans / PorscheList web pages before Rennlist. I too, thought it was dry, because that is normal industrial convention. I believe, in this case, it is "lubed", most naturally because the the normal service condition is "lubed", and this is accounted-for in the spec. It would be counter-productive to have this be a dry spec , and expect mechanics to get this "totally" dry, and then relube for service. If you still believe it's dry, please clear this up once and for all by quoting a Porsche technical reference where it says that. I haven't been able to find any, and I have very complete documentation. Yet I find numerous references to keeping this area lubed. Thanks!
--Wil Ferch
With all due respect, I believe you are wrong on the dry basis for torque. I've had a lengthy discussion about this when I first came aboard the PorscheFans / PorscheList web pages before Rennlist. I too, thought it was dry, because that is normal industrial convention. I believe, in this case, it is "lubed", most naturally because the the normal service condition is "lubed", and this is accounted-for in the spec. It would be counter-productive to have this be a dry spec , and expect mechanics to get this "totally" dry, and then relube for service. If you still believe it's dry, please clear this up once and for all by quoting a Porsche technical reference where it says that. I haven't been able to find any, and I have very complete documentation. Yet I find numerous references to keeping this area lubed. Thanks!
--Wil Ferch
07-29-2002, 02:35 PM
#6
Rennlist Member
I think that Will is right, but I would love to hear an authoritative explanation of this, too. My personal experience in twelve years of driving 911s is that 95 ft-lbs on never seize lubed lug nuts works ON A PORSCHE. But, on my Suburban, the lug nuts will loosen in 100 miles if you lube them. My best guess is that the aluminum lug nuts react differently to the lubrication than the steel lug nuts on the Chevy. This is clearly a situation in which you should exercise great care.
07-29-2002, 03:05 PM
#7
Technical Specialist
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[quote]<strong>My best guess is that the aluminum lug nuts react differently to the lubrication than the steel lug nuts on the Chevy. </strong><hr></blockquote>
I'll check the factory manual (may even say in the owners handbook) tonight. I suspect since Porsche was shipping aluminum lug nuts for use on steel studs, that it will say something like lubricate with one of the optixxxx products. That prevents the aluminum and steel from galling on each other.
I'll check the factory manual (may even say in the owners handbook) tonight. I suspect since Porsche was shipping aluminum lug nuts for use on steel studs, that it will say something like lubricate with one of the optixxxx products. That prevents the aluminum and steel from galling on each other.
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07-29-2002, 10:51 PM
#8
Rennlist Member
Mein 14: I have no reference for you to use, but I've lubed the alloy lug nuts on my Porsches for years and here's why: When the alloy of the nut mates to the alloy of the wheel and there is no lube, a smearing effect occurs between the two metals. The "lubing" prevents this anomoly from occurring. Another reason I do it is that in 1975, my 69T had a flat and we had to cut one of the lug nuts off because it had smeared and annealed itself to the wheel. Since then, I always use some form of light lube, whether a film of oil or silicone or the gold antisieze. In the 27 years since I started doing this I have never had a loose lug nut, or a wheel come loose, or best of all not a siezed lug nut. I always "lube" em. Some may say not to use silicone, in 27 years I've not had a problem...but use it very sparingly. <img src="graemlins/xyxwave.gif" border="0" alt="[bigbye]" />
07-05-2014, 01:27 PM
#9
Rennlist Member
Just came across this old thread while doing some research on lug nut torque specs.
While at Hershey this spring I ran into an old timer who said "make sure you put the anti seize on the lug nut tapered shoulder, not on the threads". He seemed pretty adamant about it, and said he was speaking from years of experience.
What say ye? Is it the taper that makes the nut seize or the threads?
While at Hershey this spring I ran into an old timer who said "make sure you put the anti seize on the lug nut tapered shoulder, not on the threads". He seemed pretty adamant about it, and said he was speaking from years of experience.
What say ye? Is it the taper that makes the nut seize or the threads?
07-05-2014, 01:36 PM
#10
RL Technical Advisor
Just came across this old thread while doing some research on lug nut torque specs.
While at Hershey this spring I ran into an old timer who said "make sure you put the anti seize on the lug nut tapered shoulder, not on the threads". He seemed pretty adamant about it, and said he was speaking from years of experience.
What say ye? Is it the taper that makes the nut seize or the threads?
While at Hershey this spring I ran into an old timer who said "make sure you put the anti seize on the lug nut tapered shoulder, not on the threads". He seemed pretty adamant about it, and said he was speaking from years of experience.
What say ye? Is it the taper that makes the nut seize or the threads?
The factory torque spec is dry, however the greatest friction is on the rounded shoulders of the lug nuts against the wheel, hence the factory recommendations for using a little bit of A/S on that part.
Another "old-timer",
