DB_NC_95C2

Thanks for the Autozone tip, I'll try this weekend.

Peter Zimmermann

S2T: My shop used/recommended Kendall GT1 for the entire 24.5 years that I was in charge, and it's still the only oil that will ever find its way into my aged SC. The stuff is just plain good, and that's why concerned independents use it. Yes, I could have made an extra $1.00/quart, or $1.50/quart by sellin Castrol or Pennzoil respectively, but I just couldn't do that to my customers. We serviced between three and six 911s per day, and the majority of my clients had me service/repair their cars over many years. That, specifically, allowed me to truly learn how good Kendall oils really are. Yes, Mobil 1 is more expensive, but I ran it in my PCA Club Race SC without problem. A little extra protection, in the California desert in summer, can't be ignored. FYI, my local Autozone (and Pep Boys) looked at me with a very blank look when I asked about GT1.

Edward, my PCA car ('81 SC) was almost exclusively used on the track so I felt marginally more comfortable using the M 1.

Grant: Valvoline has always been in second place as far as what I know about how oils and Porsches get along. I've used it myself on occasion when my wholesaler had a supply problem with GT1.
Pete

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Ed:

Pete added his experience here and I'd concurr.

"9:00" on your oil temp guage is rather hot and I'd recommend M1 15w-50 in cases like these (track usage).

LOL,....Given your location, I'd also recommend that you think about reducing that oil temp to around 185 deg F, by using the Carrera cooler, and adding ducting from the front of the car to get air into the thing. Oil coolers are really heat exchangers and without an adequate supply of the "exchange medium";...... air,...it will not do its job. Build the ducting to that air cannot go under or around the cooler, only through it. Remember, any oil temps over 210 represent a significant power loss,....

Hope this helps,

KC911

It may vary in different parts of the US, but Autozone is where I find Kendall GT1 so you can probably find it there in the triangle area. I don't put a ton of miles on my 911, but I change the oil every 6 months or 3K miles, whichever comes first.

Keith
'88 CE coupe

Edward

Steve, Pete,

Thanks for the input ...I appreciate the specifics! ...sorry if I'm sounding a bit obsessive/**** about this. It's just that I had spent more than I had originally wanted to in acquiring this SC because of the engine/tranny work that had been performed (took your advice, Steve, of spending a little more now to save me from spending much more later) so I am just trying to protect my (expensive) investment. So I gather that both are fine oils to use, with a slight nod going to the Mobil1 for track applications. Would either of you think that with only 20K miles or so on the rebuilt engine I'm ok with going to Mobil1 w/o incurring leaks? And what about going to the thinner 15w of the Mobil1 vs. the 20w of the Kendall? Is this ok for what is a track-only car? Thanks for tolerating my neurosis, guys!

Just as a side note (for anyone else who is interested in ducting their cooler) I did duct it completely so air coming in from the (enlarged) foglight hole can *only* escape through the cooler and nowhere else. When I said the oil gets to 9:00, that was only at the hottest part of the day (maybe around 95 deg.), and that was at "streets of willow" a very tight, short track with all turns and nary a straight. By contrast, at Willow's "Big" track, the oil temp was typically in the 8-8:30 area as speeds were higher and ambient temp was maybe 80-85 deg. I thus surmised that all that PITA ducting fab I did with sheet metal and screws was worth the effort (credit goes to Steve W. from a conversation we had loong ago regarding channeling air through the cooler ...thanks Steve!). I highly recommend doing this oil cooler mod for anyone tracking their older 911s.

Edward

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Edward:

If it were my car, I'd be using the Mobil-1 15w-50 for what you are using it for,....

It has a wider effective viscosity range (better lubrication at startup) and extended temperature tolerances.

At 20K on the motor, it should remain leak-free if it was done right.

Edward

Done deal, Steve, Mobil1 at the next change it is. Thanks ...again and again!!!


Edward

Peter Zimmermann

I concur, at 20K miles there should be no problem switching... and 15W vs 20W should be insignificant.

Pete

Edward

Thanks, Pete. You, too, are a great asset to us all ...especially to the more OCD types like me

Edward

Charlie944

I used to use Kendall GT-1 religioulsy in my 355 chevy and I always remembered it was that distinct green color. Despite using Amsoil products in my NA, I thought I would give Kendall a try in my turbo due to I put way less miles on it. I had noticed that the color was no longer green, and that the Kendall name and formulation had been bought from Bradford Refinery in Bradford, PA by ConocoPhillips, and the oil did not smell the same either. When getting my 951 head redone at a local machine shop I seen they had Penn Grade Racing oil. Never seeing this before the engine builder gave me the run down that this was more similar to the original Kendall GT-1 dino formualtion than what the new amber color Kendall is now. Except for that the Penn Grade Racing oil is a semi-synthetic now. And that he had better results with the Brad Penn Grade oil over the newer Kendall/Conoco formulation. This shop builds mainly truck and tractor pulling motors along with NASCAR types and Dragster apps. I bought a case of the 20w-50 Racing oil, but have not had many miles on it before putting the car in storage for winter. Like many of you I had a very difficult time even finding Kendall oil products around town. Many chain auto places are not stocking it anymore. Just some food for thought.
http://www.amref.com/bp_pb/7115_17_1...ng_Oils_PB.pdf

Here was the sale press bulliten:
http://www.amref.com/news/1-14-04.htm

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Charlie:

I too, noticed the color change and called them up one day asking to speak with an engineer, not a salesperson.

FWIW, I was told that the color change was required by EPA for some reason that I don't recollect, but the formulation and zinc content was basically untouched. There were some ingredients that needed alteration to prevent catalytic converter degradation.

IMHO, only time will tell if its truly different but thus far, I like what I see on camshafts and rocker arms.

S2TGART

HAPPY NEW YEAR !!!!!!. Here in Vernon, CT we got about 4 inches of snow. So instead of a white Christmas we got a white New Year.
Anyways, Steve as you just mentioned, only time will tell, and that applys to any oil. I guess that's why so many people seek the advice of others when it comes to oil usage. It takes a number of years or an engine tear down to THEN discover that you were perhaps using the wrong oil.
To keep from adding fuel to this "oil fire" of a discussion, I will refrain from mentioning the 2 oils that I tell everyone to avoid, based on what I have seen with regard to sludge build up from excessive parafin wax in the oil. You can fill in the names if you know them. Then again, that may only apply to some engines. Because now that I think about it, my father has had his oil changed religously at the same garage adn they use one of the ils I am thinkning about. He bought his '85 Mercedes 300D Turbo Diesel with 165,000 miles on it, and it now has 367,000.

Charlie944

Thank you Steve for that bit of info, indeed time and usage are the best trials. I will keep track of oil consumption and wear on any components during teardowns. Happy 2006 guys!