Is it OK to hold the clutch in on a G50 while waiting for the light to turn green?
#16
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Originally Posted by ked
"I knew that Steve and I would disagree on something, some day!"
We live to reveal a contention between you guys. That's why there are so many weird questions from low-post members.
We live to reveal a contention between you guys. That's why there are so many weird questions from low-post members.
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Hi Pete
I never load the thrust bearing on a start. I'm not sure how it affects a 911 bearing's life but it's just something I never do.. A weekend engine with dino oil starting with the bearing loaded has to be the worst as per me wiping dino and synthetic on steel and watching it thin out over time.
meanwhile.. you'd get a kick out of seeing this car again. On my next ride I'm going to track you down.. it'll be good entertainment.
I never load the thrust bearing on a start. I'm not sure how it affects a 911 bearing's life but it's just something I never do.. A weekend engine with dino oil starting with the bearing loaded has to be the worst as per me wiping dino and synthetic on steel and watching it thin out over time.
meanwhile.. you'd get a kick out of seeing this car again. On my next ride I'm going to track you down.. it'll be good entertainment.
#20
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Hmmm, from the Peoples Republic of Santa Monica to the Peoples Repub...
Here's one for you. If you save the T.O. bearing from an ever so slight premature failure, you'll spend that money on a new starter sooner! Remember, if you don't depress the clutch pedal when you start the car you are also "starting" (cranking) the transmission. That thick oil is loading up that poor starter in a way not accounted for by its designer. If you place the car in neutral and start it with the pedal released you're breaking BIG BROTHER'S rule of safety. All newer cars that I've driven require, by BIG BROTHER, that the clutch pedal be depressed to release a starter lock out. If I hadn't pushed in the clutch to start cars for the last 40 years (I was taught that way), that safety stuff would really be irritating!
Cheers! Pete
Here's one for you. If you save the T.O. bearing from an ever so slight premature failure, you'll spend that money on a new starter sooner! Remember, if you don't depress the clutch pedal when you start the car you are also "starting" (cranking) the transmission. That thick oil is loading up that poor starter in a way not accounted for by its designer. If you place the car in neutral and start it with the pedal released you're breaking BIG BROTHER'S rule of safety. All newer cars that I've driven require, by BIG BROTHER, that the clutch pedal be depressed to release a starter lock out. If I hadn't pushed in the clutch to start cars for the last 40 years (I was taught that way), that safety stuff would really be irritating!
Cheers! Pete
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Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
Hmmm, from the Peoples Republic of Santa Remember, if you don't depress the clutch pedal when you start the car you are also "starting" (cranking) the transmission.
#22
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On starting, I always push the clutch in AND have it in neutral. Mostly for safety reasons. Sometimes a gearbox can feel like it is in neutral but be in gear, and I'd hate to run it through the garage door on startup! Just seems safer to have a habit of clutching in on startup on a manual (and it's required on most modern cars, too).
On waiting at lights, I combine Steve and Pete's advice. I wouldn't ever just sit with the clutch pedal down. But, I anticipate the light, and push the clutch in several seconds before the light changes. I err on the side of pushing in early. I never push down the clutch and immediately jam it into first. I'd rather have the clutch down for 5-10 extra seconds than do that. But I agree that having a habit of keeping the clutch down for 60-90-120 seconds at every stoplight causes unnecessary wear on components.
That wear may not matter to those who wear out clutches quickly, but I easily get 80, 90, 100K+ miles out of a clutch, and that includes a good deal of city driving. So I need all the clutch related components (TO bearing, etc.) to last as long as possible.
On waiting at lights, I combine Steve and Pete's advice. I wouldn't ever just sit with the clutch pedal down. But, I anticipate the light, and push the clutch in several seconds before the light changes. I err on the side of pushing in early. I never push down the clutch and immediately jam it into first. I'd rather have the clutch down for 5-10 extra seconds than do that. But I agree that having a habit of keeping the clutch down for 60-90-120 seconds at every stoplight causes unnecessary wear on components.
That wear may not matter to those who wear out clutches quickly, but I easily get 80, 90, 100K+ miles out of a clutch, and that includes a good deal of city driving. So I need all the clutch related components (TO bearing, etc.) to last as long as possible.
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Yes, I've been starting it & esp. my Fcar usually with clutch-in to save wear on the flywheel/starter as well & I usually park with a gear engaged. It's easier to start that way. Guess either way, some components are bound to wear & tear.
#25
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I've noticed if I put it in 1st just before coming to a stop, then after stopping put it in nuetral and let out the clutch, it goes right back in 1st when the light changes no problem. If I take it out of gear and coast to a stop, it can sometimes be tough to get into 1st quickly when the light changes.
#26
Burning Brakes
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Originally Posted by JBO
I've noticed if I put it in 1st just before coming to a stop, then after stopping put it in nuetral and let out the clutch, it goes right back in 1st when the light changes no problem. If I take it out of gear and coast to a stop, it can sometimes be tough to get into 1st quickly when the light changes.
Keith
'88 CE coupe
#27
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Originally Posted by 427grips
Is it OK to hold the clutch in on a G50 while waiting for the light to turn green? Peter Zimmermann states in his book that you can do so in an earlier car without damage to the throw out bearing etc.. But can you do so in a G50 equipped 87- 89?
Raj
Raj
This is not a problem. The tranny is bulletproof and any comments about 'cable stretch' are rather unrealistic. I ran a Carrera RSR pressure plate on my 3.0 turbo and ran through a bunch of clutch cables because the pressure on that plate is extremely severe. it's not the tranny that's the issue,--it's the pressure plate pressure and the condition of the throwout bearing.
Porsche's are tough. Don't sweat this one.
Dan
06 997S Cab on order
81 911SC Turbo
77 911S
73 914-4
#28
Burning Brakes
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[QUOTE=Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems]....FWIW, its VERY poor practice to hold the clutch pedal down while waiting for the light to change oin ANY car and the Carrera is no exception to that rule....
/QUOTE]
Got to agree w/ Steve on this one (like that's a risky position to take
), but that's what I've always been taught. Who wants to sit at a stop light for 40-60 seconds with the clutch in anyways?
/QUOTE]
Got to agree w/ Steve on this one (like that's a risky position to take
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#29
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edgy01, hey Dan , this is Ron McAtee in San Antonio (Spider911). Do mean that old 81 SC with a Flippo turbo on it? My comment was meant that prolonged use of the clutch would strectch the cable. I know becaus I replaced a few on the old 69T and the 76 912E. Granted, the pressure plate is the culprit, but undue strain is a contributor. Are you still retired?
I'll send you an e-mail so we don't tie up this thread. Good to know your on Rennlist.
I'll send you an e-mail so we don't tie up this thread. Good to know your on Rennlist.
#30
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Hey Ron! I went through several clutch cables and then found one that didn't stretch anymore! Worked just fine on that special car.
Have ordered a new 997 S Cabriolet -- Gulf Blue (like Wann's 930).
Dan
P.S. I went back to work,--was getting bored.
Have ordered a new 997 S Cabriolet -- Gulf Blue (like Wann's 930).
Dan
P.S. I went back to work,--was getting bored.