RickKlem

I am having problems with my 77 911, First if I let it sit for a week or so , when I try to start it up it may take 10 to 12 tries, each being better than the previous try. (meaning it will run longer than before) Once it stays running ,if you press the accelerator it will die. I have to let it run for about three or four minutes before depressing the pedal. After driving it for 30 to 45 minutes it has a backfire and then shuts off. After sittting on the side of the road for an hour, I was finaly able to restart it to get it back home. It has only done this twice, I dont want to be stranded again, so I just start it once a week to keep the battery charged.

Vacuum Problem?
Tha last guy to work on this car moved (Rigged) the hoses all around , used T-fittings to connect all of the lines together. He claims "A vacuum line is a vacuum line, there all the same",Before I start replacing parts I want to make sure that the problem mention above is not due to a hose! I want (need) to replace all of the vacuum lines with new ones and I want to make sure there in the right location , I want to know where I can find a detailed drawing for all of the vacuum lines for my year model and not a 76 or a 78? I have found a drawing for a 78 and the connections are different. They all seam to be a little different.

Thanks

Bob Spindel

I have a '77. If I get a chance this weekend I'll sketch out the vacuum system. You can also try looking at Jim McWilliams Rennlist web page.

Hladun1

The last guy who worked on your car was full of "it" and wrong. Vacuum lines are not all equal because they connect to the throttle body in different places. That is, the vacuum will vary with throttle opening in different ways. Pelican Parts has some useful diagrams. Generally the vacuum advance (distributor) is on the high connection on the TB. The deceleration valve (if you have one) and the warm up regulator are on the lower (sometimes on the back of the TB) connection. You might have two lines to your warm up regulator. I suspect your car stalls because these lines are connected wrong. It you have what's called an auxiliary air valve take it out, that's what causes backfires. (I submitted previous posts on this subject). A 76 drawing is probably better for you because the 78's are the SC's with the 3 liter engines (which I have).

Sean Hamilton

Hladun1, I'm bored with the cold start surging. Do you have any photos of the specific hose I'm aiming for?
I've read your earlier posts on this with interest. I'd like to follow your lead and yank the auxiliary air valve too. Whilst your post was very specific I'm wondering if you could dumb it down further for me as I'm not sure I have the courage to start yanking out hoses that may be the wrong one. (as a mechanic I'm better off at my day job - but I'm okay with tinkering).


Cheers,
Sean.
1980 Hellblaumetallic SC Targa.

Hladun1

This is for Sean, but others may have not seen these pictures I posted. Remember to block both lines to the auxiliary air valve if you remove it.

<a href="http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/airvalves.jpg" target="_blank">http://boards.rennlist.com/upload/airvalves.jpg</a>