I have started work on my 85 3.2 with 120K on the clock and when I removed the alt/fan I noticed what looks like a gasket leak. Is this a sign of a blown head gasket? The car ran fine and the plugs are great prior to work start. I'm just doing basic maintenance stuff on her.
I will be adjusting the valves in the next few day's and am wondering if that will allow me to perform some sort of check on the head bolts or anything else you pro's recommend.

Thanks


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'85 Carrera Cab
'99 BMW 323is
'66

 

Gost:

3.2's do not have head gaskets.

I'd be checking for loose head nuts or broken head studs.

 

Hi Steve and thanks for your reply. Yes, I found out there is no gasket and will check the torque/head bolts after I degrease the bottom of the engine and remover covers for the valve adj. The leak looks like it's been there for a long time. I hope it's just torqueing and not a broken bolt.

Gordon

 

Snapped head stud...

 

Ditto snapped head stud(s). Also if you can see the damage the cylinder barrel and head are probably burned through... unfortunately, you are looking at mucho $$$.... probably a top end rebuild.

 

I sure hope not. Can't be sure till I check. When i put a torque wrench on the bolts will a snapped stud just spin relatively easy? I guess what I mean is can a snapped stud be identified easily?

Gost

 

It will probably come off in your hand. It will hopefully be resting at the top of the case - not circulating around...

 

That would be one ugly sight. The car ran perfectly, never a cough sputter or hiccup. There are no stud problem signs evident in the running of the car? Again looks like it's been there a while and no change in performance since I've had the car. I would like to know for any future signs.

Thanks

Gost

 

Checked all the studs and thankfully all of them are fine and snug. What is the protocol at this stage? Loosen the effected cylinder's bolts and re-torque them. They should be loose in order to develop that leak if they are not broken. Am I correct in assuming this or are there other reasons?
Can anyone explain the torquing method by degrees of turn? The manual calls for this 2 stage method. Is it that a bolt is torqued to a certain value first and then torqued additionally by 90 degrees or 1/4 turn, 180 degrees or 1/2 turn etc.?

Thanks

Gost