New garage toy/tool: low-rise lift. Very cool.
#16
Rennlist Member
Brett: My hoist came with the rubber topped pads also, but I like using wood for the reason that you mention.
bbh: I'm 6'3", and find that working under the car on either a low-rise or mid-rise lift is creeper work. I can see where the mid-rise might make getting the engine/trans out from under the car, once it's down, easier, but I don't see much else that would be easier. I built a complete PCA Club Racer ('69) on my low rise (All F & R suspension, front cooler, brakes, engine & trans, etc.) on my low rise and never wished for anything else - except for a high rise! Oh to do brake work while standing... Let's see, how much will it cost to raise the ceiling two feet?
Pete
bbh: I'm 6'3", and find that working under the car on either a low-rise or mid-rise lift is creeper work. I can see where the mid-rise might make getting the engine/trans out from under the car, once it's down, easier, but I don't see much else that would be easier. I built a complete PCA Club Racer ('69) on my low rise (All F & R suspension, front cooler, brakes, engine & trans, etc.) on my low rise and never wished for anything else - except for a high rise! Oh to do brake work while standing... Let's see, how much will it cost to raise the ceiling two feet?
Pete
#19
Originally Posted by Mark Hald
bbh -
mine is a mid-rise. it brings the axles up around chest-high.
mine is a mid-rise. it brings the axles up around chest-high.
Pete, I still feel the extra height would be worth an extra $100. What do you think? Also, from all the work I've done on jackstands (almost anything you can do on jackstands) I'll take every inch of lift I can get. I'm guessing with the mid rise in my 9' garage, I can get full height out of it, or close to it.
#20
Rennlist Member
bbh: If the ceiling allows, go for it! But make very accurate measurements, obstructions around hoists aren't good, brain fade will occur sooner or later, and that can be expensive! I've moved since I bought my low rise, and a mid rise would work where I live now (10' + ceiling)...
Pete
Pete
#21
Originally Posted by Peter Zimmermann
bbh: If the ceiling allows, go for it! But make very accurate measurements, obstructions around hoists aren't good, brain fade will occur sooner or later, and that can be expensive! I've moved since I bought my low rise, and a mid rise would work where I live now (10' + ceiling)...
Pete
Pete
I should post pics of how I dropped the engine/tranny on jackstands. Very creative, but it will make you cringe. No humans were ever in danger, but...
Brian
#22
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I like having the height for some things. For others, I find lying on my back better than trying to sit under the car. CV bolts are one task which come to mind as being better off on my back - I can wedge the wheel with my knee while using both hands for tightening/loosening the bolts, then use the wheel to rotate the CV for the next bolt.
Before building the barn, I did use the mid-rise lift in a garage-under with standard-height ceiling. I think the only close call I had was the rubber lip on the tail coming close to the garage door opener track with the engine lid open.
Before building the barn, I did use the mid-rise lift in a garage-under with standard-height ceiling. I think the only close call I had was the rubber lip on the tail coming close to the garage door opener track with the engine lid open.
#25
Rennlist Member
Hey Brian, when working with jack stands, an alternate method for removal is to wedge a giant ice block under the engine and apply heat. To install, reverse procedure...
Keep the shiny side up!
Pete
Keep the shiny side up!
Pete
#26
Brian, one thing you can't do with the low rise lift is oil line and AC line work. The pads run the entire length of the running boards. No access to the oil and AC lines. I see that the mid-rise leaves the sides of the car clear, which is nice.
Brett
Brett
#27
Well, no AC on this car, so that won't be a problem. I am this >< close to calling up and ordering this. Of course, I could use the money on something else like RSR pistons, etc., but tools make me happy too. This thing would also make working on my 330 sooooo much easier!
Pete, my removal procedure was quite elegant, although not as elegant as the ice block! It did require 3 jacks since the dolly I built should have been designed better to accomodate the tranny.
Pete, my removal procedure was quite elegant, although not as elegant as the ice block! It did require 3 jacks since the dolly I built should have been designed better to accomodate the tranny.
#29
A local friend of mine is trying to convince me to get a scissor lift instead to leave then entire middle of the vehicle clear. They are $3000 and up though, so I doubt I'm going to spend that much. I guess the benefit is acces to the trans/clutch and exhaust of the front engine cars.
http://www.rotarylift.com/library/po...erials/137.PDF
http://www.ultimategarage.com/lifts.htm
http://www.rotarylift.com/library/po...erials/137.PDF
http://www.ultimategarage.com/lifts.htm
#30
There is also the BendPak low-rise pit lift for around $1800 from asedeals.com. I thought about this too. The low-rise pit lift is 2 separate lifts leaving the middle completely open, but I decided I needed to be able to roll the lift around the garage.
Another concern. Voltage. I noticed that the Rotary lift that you linked to only runs on 220V. Just thought I'd mention that in case you haven't noticed.
Good luck shopping.
Brett
Another concern. Voltage. I noticed that the Rotary lift that you linked to only runs on 220V. Just thought I'd mention that in case you haven't noticed.
Good luck shopping.
Brett