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You can generally reach up under the dash pad from inside the trunk and carefully push out the easiest one to reach, then you can usually manipulate the others through this growing number of new holes from inside the car.
Most will recommend removal of the steering wheel prior to attempting to remove the tachometer (I am no exception to this rule), although others swear it is possible to do with the wheel still in position.
It may depend largely upon which wheel/hub combination you have, as I could barely slide 2 fingers between the wheel and dash on my 74, the 84 is quite a bit farther out because of the Momo/Nardi adapter ring.
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Clock usually comes out easily, then work along - I agree with Dan, remove the steering wheel first. They are just held in place with the large rubber grommet, get your nails in behind and ease out the first one then you can get behind the next in line and work it with two hands.
Dano: Thank you! I slide a large, flat-bladed screwdriver under the rubber ring around the outside of the gauge I want to remove, then pull straight back. It takes a bit of strength because you don't want to lever it out (or you can damage the dash). Holding the screwdriver very firmly, perpendicular to the gauge, its tip bottomed out against the gauge body, and pulling hard enough to get a small movement, then moving to a different position, works for me. I've removed hundreds of gauges this way, but as someone suggested you can go in through the trunk, push one loose, and then do the rest from inside the car. Sometimes it's helpful to remove the steering wheel to get the tach out, but sometimes you can spray the gauge rubber liberally with silicone spray and it will slide out from between the dash eyebrow and the steering column. If your dashboard is in top condition the eyebrow will flex, but if the dash is "tight" from sun damage or age take the wheel off.
Pete
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