carreraken

I seem to have a slight seepage of oil coming from the driver side cam tower oil line on my '85.

Anyone tell me how difficult it is to replace this?

Thanks,
Ken

KC911

I just replaced mine on the passenger side, and it's very easy to do (left side wouldn't be much different). Although my car is an '88 with the A/C removed, and backdated heat (allowing EASY access to both lines), I can't imagine your car to be much different (although you might have to remove the plastic heating ducts for left side access...no big deal). Hope this helps...Keith

carreraken

Thanks KC911, I'll order the part and do it myself!
k

KC911

I already had mine drained of oil (valve adjustment), but that should not be an issue for you (at the top of the motor). Good luck (although this one is so easy, you won't need any 'luck')

Keith

Peter Zimmermann

Ken: It is a little tricky, because you must remove the ignition distributor. That requires putting the engine on TDC #1, after which you must remember where the rotor is pointing, so you put it back pointing to the correct cylinder. Yes, you can take the fitting loose with a crowsfoot, but occasionally the fitting in the case will come loose also. Next you have to look at the auxiliary line to the chain cover/tensioner. If it arcs smoothly up to the cam oil line you will have to replace it. If it does a little bend toward the center of the car you'll be OK, it's already been updated and will fit your new cam oil line. (That line has been superseded to make changing cam oil lines on Turbos easier.) Loosen the nut (14mm) behind the distributor, loosen the nut on the auxiliary line, remove what you have to to get to the outboard fitting and take it off. TIP: Always loosen and tighten using two wrenches - always support the piece that the part you are unscrewing tightens against. You will need two banjo bolt seals for the outboard fitting, and if you need to change the auxiliary tensioner line you will need two seals for its banjo bolt. When you install the new cam oil line connect all three points before you tighten any of them. Then tighten the outboard bolt (hold the fitting in the cam housing with one 17mm wrench as you snug the banjo bolt with a second 17mm wrench. Tighten the nut behind the distributor while holding the fitting in the case, then snug up the auxiliary line. Note: the aluminum seals for the outboard banjo bolt are squash resistant, it's recommended that you get them from a dealer. Don't get muscular! Good luck with the project...
Pete

KC911

Ken, I will defer to Pete's expert opinion on this and I apologize if I have made it seem simpler than it really is (and Pete, I thank you for interjecting). I'm not looking at my car right now (nor was I when I originally responded), but I've got my distributor cap (and plug wires, etc. removed), and from memory, the left side line seems as if it's right there in plain view with easy access (without removing the distributor...which is still not a real big deal). Hope I didn't mislead you...

Keith

ps: Pete, as usual, thank you (and all the other pro's on these boards) who keep us weekend garage 'hacks' on the right path!!!

carreraken

Thanks Pete, looks like I'll need to allocate a little more time for the project. Is the crowsfoot the only 'special' tool I will need?

KC911 - no worries, I appreciate the input.

Ken

Peter Zimmermann

The reason that I wrote in this thread is because everyone has a different comfort zone with what might be easy, or if that same job might bite somebody else. (My brother builds unbelievable electronic test equipment, while I would be challenged with just turning on one of his machines - but he doesn't have the foggiest idea how to remove a 911 engine!) Some of the simplest jobs turn out to be immensely frustrating for some people, while others will sail right through it.

Ken - yes, the crowsfoot would be the only unusual tool, everything else is done with regular wrenches...

Pete

carreraken

Pete, thanks for your input. Having precise information helps me make an informed decision on whether I tackle the job or send it to the shop.

cheers,
ken

DonMo

I did both of mine after they leaked, very painful leak. No engine damage but a lot of oil everywhere. Driver side is very easy on a 3.2. Right side with AC is a pain, if you are double jointed you don't have to drop muffler and ac bracket. I tried for an hour and finally broke down and removed exhaust and bracket. I did the removal in 30 minutes. I took both of the fittings over to my local hydraulic hose shop and $5.62 later, new and better hoses with an exact match. I have read on Pelican how many go through more than one line before getting the right one, apparently there are more than one available.

It was sweet sucess when I put mine back on in under 30 minutes. Just advise.

KC911

FWIW, This weekend, I took another look at the left side line oil line on my '88 just for the heck of it. I currently have the left side hot air duct removed, and the distributor cap removed, and that being the case, I could (just barely), get two open end wrenches on the oil line. Obviously, I didn't actually remove the line, but I just want to see if I could access it with the distributor in place. Using a 17mm open end (to counter hold), coming at an almost vertical angle (down between the distributor and the fan housing), and with a 14mm open end (coming from the front of the car, underneath the opening in the shroud), I was able to get enough access to where I 'believe' that I would be able to remove the line in this fashion. Although removing the distributor is no big deal, you might want to give this technique a try before you take that step. Pete, if I've overlooked something, please set me straight, as you have more experience with these cars than I could ever dream of, but I do believe that this 'might' be an alternative approach to removing the distributor.

Keith

Peter Zimmermann

Keith: Yes, it's possible to get a 14mm wrench on the oil line nut as you describe. Unfortunately about 80% of the time that approach is used the wrench will round off the corners of the nut while trying to break it loose. Also, if the same approach is used for the installation it's virtually impossible to "feel" how tight the nut is, or to get your hand down to where you need to be to insure that the ferrule under the nut is seated properly into the case fitting. A 14mm crowsfoot will make it possible to remove and install the line without damage to the nut, but I've run across lines that were so tight that I needed to use a line wrench (distributor removed) to get the old line loose. It can be a tricky little repair!
Pete

KC911

Thank you Pete! I don't know what I'd do without guys like you to keep us novices on the proper path...I love working on my car, but sure wouldn't even attempt many things without Rennlist and Pelican to guide the way.

Keith