Brake Pad/Rotor Combination...
#1
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Has anyone here run Ferodo brake pads on their 911?
I have Brembo cross drilled rotors front and rear with 911S Aluminum calipers up front and A's in the rear.
Wondering if the Ferodo's will react well to the rotors and vice versa.
Any help greatly appreciated...!
Thanks!
Jason
I have Brembo cross drilled rotors front and rear with 911S Aluminum calipers up front and A's in the rear.
Wondering if the Ferodo's will react well to the rotors and vice versa.
Any help greatly appreciated...!
Thanks!
Jason
#2
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason: I used Ferodo pads, with cross-drilled rotors, on at least 3 cars that I've owned. For street use I didn't like them (long warm-up phase) but in competrition they were fantastic. Very positive reaction to pedal pressure, and predictable.
Pete
Pete
#3
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Incidentally, be careful with your brakes, it sounds like they are too biased to the rear. The best rear pad to use with S calipers is the "M" size... Generally, if you use A calipers on the rear you need to increase your front calipers to something like a 3.3 Turbo size.
Pete
Pete
#4
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Oops... sorry I meant M calipers in the rear.
I havent been working on the Porsche for quite some time, my mistake.
Thanks for the insight!
Jason
I havent been working on the Porsche for quite some time, my mistake.
Thanks for the insight!
Jason
#5
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason,
Ferodo do have different compounds for your calipers and some of their road pads are not meant for '911' driving. Excessive or increased heat cycles will glaze the surface and reduce their effect. Ferodo do however have some good racing pads, but they are just that - racing pads.
What do you use the car for and how does it normally brake – does the front lock before the rear under emergency stops, etc?
I am a Pagid man. I know there are lots of alternatives but their range allows you to easily select a combination that will max your braking potential.
Other considerations are noise, dust and the $ issue.
Regards, Tom
Ferodo do have different compounds for your calipers and some of their road pads are not meant for '911' driving. Excessive or increased heat cycles will glaze the surface and reduce their effect. Ferodo do however have some good racing pads, but they are just that - racing pads.
What do you use the car for and how does it normally brake – does the front lock before the rear under emergency stops, etc?
I am a Pagid man. I know there are lots of alternatives but their range allows you to easily select a combination that will max your braking potential.
Other considerations are noise, dust and the $ issue.
Regards, Tom
#6
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Tom,
I do not believe the pads I purchased are racing pads, probably a street/track combo pad.
The car will not be daily driven, more of a weekend play/auto-x/track car.
How does it normally brake? Hehe well the brakes have been terrible ever since we purchased the vehicle a year and a 1/2 ago. I am in the process of rebuilding most of the brake system right now...
New master cylinder, completely rebuilding all 4 calipers, new SS lines, new rotors, new pads and new front wheel bearings. Once this is complete it should break pretty damn well... The old pads were showing that the caliper pistons were off a bit in alignment because the pads were wearing at an angle.
Noise, dust and money are not a huge problem at this time.
Thanks for the input...!
I do not believe the pads I purchased are racing pads, probably a street/track combo pad.
The car will not be daily driven, more of a weekend play/auto-x/track car.
How does it normally brake? Hehe well the brakes have been terrible ever since we purchased the vehicle a year and a 1/2 ago. I am in the process of rebuilding most of the brake system right now...
New master cylinder, completely rebuilding all 4 calipers, new SS lines, new rotors, new pads and new front wheel bearings. Once this is complete it should break pretty damn well... The old pads were showing that the caliper pistons were off a bit in alignment because the pads were wearing at an angle.
Noise, dust and money are not a huge problem at this time.
Thanks for the input...!
#7
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Before I went to 930 calipers and rotors on my Carrera, I was running Cobalt Friction Spec B. EXCELLENT pad for DE's. In fact, I prefer them (though it's an apples to oranges comparison) to the spec VX I'm running right now. Seem easier to modulate. These Spec B's never faded at Sebring even after 35-45 minutes at the DE's I attended. You may want to call the Cobalt guys and see if they have anything in Spec B for you. Otherwise, I ran PFC 90s.
Trending Topics
#8
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Morning Jason,
Well, since you have the pads already and are doing the entire brake system I simply suggest that you fit them, run them in properly (a few heat cycles) and then take it from there.
Most problems with new pads (any type) are that they are over-heated in the first drive; the bonding material 'evaporates' and the friction material will glaze. A visual inspection later will show a pitted and crumbling pad - useless (crumbling, glaze - sounds like a cooking recipe!).
If you when driving the car can't (almost- don't destroy tires!) lock all 4 wheels when emergency braking on a smooth road then the pads should be replaced. NB - this is not to be confused with fade as a result of boiling fluid (more cooking terms!).
A 911 can stop like nothing else if done correctly.
Regards, Tom
Well, since you have the pads already and are doing the entire brake system I simply suggest that you fit them, run them in properly (a few heat cycles) and then take it from there.
Most problems with new pads (any type) are that they are over-heated in the first drive; the bonding material 'evaporates' and the friction material will glaze. A visual inspection later will show a pitted and crumbling pad - useless (crumbling, glaze - sounds like a cooking recipe!).
If you when driving the car can't (almost- don't destroy tires!) lock all 4 wheels when emergency braking on a smooth road then the pads should be replaced. NB - this is not to be confused with fade as a result of boiling fluid (more cooking terms!).
A 911 can stop like nothing else if done correctly.
Regards, Tom
#9
Rennlist Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason: If you are doing all four calipers at one time you are going to, most likely, have brakes that barely work. It won't be that you're bleeding them wrong, resealed calipers have a break-in period of 100 - 300 miles. You will have an extremely soft, mushy, pedal to begin with. Struggle through it, leave lots of stopping distance, and be extra careful until the brake pedal starts to "come back." If the calipers have not been done yet I would advise you to do only one, maybe two, to start with, break them in and then do one or two more.
Pete
Pete
#10
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Join Date: Jul 2003
Location: San Diego, CA
Posts: 169
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Thanks Pete and Tom...! That is very useful information. I will deffinetly take it into account when I start working on the car again shortly here.
#11
Technical Specialist
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Another contributor to soft brakes when working on the calipers is reassembling with the pistons pushed in away from the pad. After you put it back together, before going anywhere, give the brakes a good dozen or so strong push and holds to move the pistons out to the pads.
#12
Addict
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
Rennlist Member
Rennlist
Site Sponsor
![Default](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/icons/icon1.gif)
Jason, I have had good luck with Ferodo brake pads as well. I tried putting Porterfield's on my '85 911 and had outstanding results with them I also, have x-drilled rotors. Best of luck to you.