Chassis lube for my 86 911?
01-26-2003, 11:55 AM
#1
Intermediate
Thread Starter
Join Date: Apr 2002
Posts: 31
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Chassis lube for my 86 911?
Now in hibernation here in Canada I thought I would get out the old grease gun. No where in my 101 projects or in the manual does it give me instructions...What gives.
Also is it true that "the dining room is no place to clean my p wheels?" Wife seems to think this is unusual and not acceptable behavior. I told her that i'll bet some of my Rennlist friends have done better.
Thanks guys
Also is it true that "the dining room is no place to clean my p wheels?" Wife seems to think this is unusual and not acceptable behavior. I told her that i'll bet some of my Rennlist friends have done better.
Thanks guys
01-26-2003, 01:14 PM
#3
911's don't have grease zerks so you can put the grease gun away unless you want to attack a Ford Escort.
It actually is kind of amazing. My previous American POS had been regularly lubed and the steering links were all floppy loose and used up at 140,000 but the 911 still feels new at 185,000.
Wayne
It actually is kind of amazing. My previous American POS had been regularly lubed and the steering links were all floppy loose and used up at 140,000 but the 911 still feels new at 185,000.
Wayne
01-26-2003, 01:22 PM
#4
Technical Specialist
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Rennlist
Lifetime Member
Sorry, no grease fittings. Get out your Bentley 84-89 Maintenance Manual (about $75 via internet sources) to see how to lubricate everything, amongst many other topics. Here's a few things that come to mind:
The wheel bearings. You'll want to buy two new grease seals before disassembling the front hubs to grease the front bearings.
You can put a dab of grease on each of the gas pedal to engine linkage points.
Lubricate the door and trunk hinges.
Disassemble and lubricate the CV joints on the rear axles. (May not need it, but if you're in the mood...)
If industrious, disassemble the front pedal cluster assembly, replace the plastic bushings which will wear out in another 5-10 years, unless your master cylinder leaks on top of it first. Either replace with new plastic bushings or bronze bushings. I like well greased bronze bushings.
Undo the front and rear sway bar bushings, and lubricate the rubber bushings with silicone grease (Dow Corning and 3M are two brands), not silicone sealant! Silicone grease is a lubricant and helps to preserve the rubber.
Lubricate the clutch release lever.
And yes, I can sympathize with finding a "proper" place to work on parts when it's minus 20C outside. An unfinished basement or furnance room may be acceptable. However, only when low temps prevent garage usage - which is where anything auto-related belongs, I'm told <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />
The wheel bearings. You'll want to buy two new grease seals before disassembling the front hubs to grease the front bearings.
You can put a dab of grease on each of the gas pedal to engine linkage points.
Lubricate the door and trunk hinges.
Disassemble and lubricate the CV joints on the rear axles. (May not need it, but if you're in the mood...)
If industrious, disassemble the front pedal cluster assembly, replace the plastic bushings which will wear out in another 5-10 years, unless your master cylinder leaks on top of it first. Either replace with new plastic bushings or bronze bushings. I like well greased bronze bushings.
Undo the front and rear sway bar bushings, and lubricate the rubber bushings with silicone grease (Dow Corning and 3M are two brands), not silicone sealant! Silicone grease is a lubricant and helps to preserve the rubber.
Lubricate the clutch release lever.
And yes, I can sympathize with finding a "proper" place to work on parts when it's minus 20C outside. An unfinished basement or furnance room may be acceptable. However, only when low temps prevent garage usage - which is where anything auto-related belongs, I'm told <img border="0" title="" alt="[Wink]" src="wink.gif" />