To antiseize Spark plug or not ?
#1
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Hi there,
I was reading the 101 Project book by Wayne Dempsey and noticed that he mentions when installing spark plugs, do not apply antiseize compound.Why is that?
I check the Bentley and it doesn't mention any thing regarding antiseize at all.
That's strange , when I read other car manuals or motorcycle manuals, it usually mentions to make sure antiseize is applied to the spark plugs to prevent the plugs from melted and stuck into the engine treads.
Does anyone know the correct answer to this?
To antiseize or not antiseize, that is the question....
Any feedback is a greatly appreciate it.
youngatheart.
I was reading the 101 Project book by Wayne Dempsey and noticed that he mentions when installing spark plugs, do not apply antiseize compound.Why is that?
I check the Bentley and it doesn't mention any thing regarding antiseize at all.
That's strange , when I read other car manuals or motorcycle manuals, it usually mentions to make sure antiseize is applied to the spark plugs to prevent the plugs from melted and stuck into the engine treads.
Does anyone know the correct answer to this?
To antiseize or not antiseize, that is the question....
Any feedback is a greatly appreciate it.
youngatheart.
#2
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Some people think it will cause a poor ground, and possibly poor heat transfer. I am not of that group, I have used it especially on aluminum heads for many years with no problems nor any stripped or galled threads either.
#4
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Hi :
Everyone has an opinion, based on experience,....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
After suffering pulled threads on aluminum head engines in the mid-sixties. I always use a tad bit of copper-based anti-seize on all spark plug threads. Most people use too much and thats where they get into trouble.
In most cases; "Less is More",.....
Everyone has an opinion, based on experience,....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
After suffering pulled threads on aluminum head engines in the mid-sixties. I always use a tad bit of copper-based anti-seize on all spark plug threads. Most people use too much and thats where they get into trouble.
In most cases; "Less is More",.....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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It's my understanding that anti-seize has tiny, tiny glass beads that are suspended in the silver 'goo'.The glass beads act as small roller bearings between the two surfaces that allow a gliding effect. This is not a good thing on spark plugs as the threads never fully contact the cylinder head. This will not allow proper torque and heat transfer from the plug to the head.
#6
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I have found that when it's time to remove spark plugs anti-seize (the silver stuff) makes the job far more difficult than any other compound (which made me nervous so I don't use it on anything!). Steve's copper-based stuff is very good, but all that I do is apply a "tad bit" of Kendall blue grease (or moly) to the threads. A little bit goes a long way... 15K miles later all that's required is to break loose the plug and turn it out by hand. Steve - what do you like, the LM 508? That's what I use on alloy wheel lug nuts, exhaust hardware, etc.
Pete
Pete
#7
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Yessir, the LM 508 (or Wurth CU-800) is what I use. I always keep some here for my clients,....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You are right about the silver stuff. It cakes into a stubborn mess that makes ANYTHING tough to remove,....![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The copper-based compounds like these are conductive and I've found after 25+ years that they do not affect spark plug heat ranges and plug readings.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
You are right about the silver stuff. It cakes into a stubborn mess that makes ANYTHING tough to remove,....
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
The copper-based compounds like these are conductive and I've found after 25+ years that they do not affect spark plug heat ranges and plug readings.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
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#8
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Anybody vote for Optimolly?
Maybe somebody can post a pic of how much to use. A lot of people are doing this for the first time on their cars.
The "too much" phenonenon is really common. Other instances are the "iron wrist" when tightening fasteners, and adding too much anti-freeze. Think like Goldilocks and the porrage... So be on gaurd for this if you are just starting out to work on your car.
Maybe somebody can post a pic of how much to use. A lot of people are doing this for the first time on their cars.
The "too much" phenonenon is really common. Other instances are the "iron wrist" when tightening fasteners, and adding too much anti-freeze. Think like Goldilocks and the porrage... So be on gaurd for this if you are just starting out to work on your car.
#9
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I always wondered if the PAG position had something to do with the DME's being sensitive to grounding and they just issued a blanket statement ?
I do know that the F-14's computers are very ground sensitive..
anyway I use the Loctite Graphite-50 with a toothbrush for a thin coating.. then a quick finger wipe afterwards. I don't use it on chassis grounds. My F-14 EE bud suggested keeping the anti corrosion treatment as pure as possible, especially if a computer is involved..
I do know that the F-14's computers are very ground sensitive..
anyway I use the Loctite Graphite-50 with a toothbrush for a thin coating.. then a quick finger wipe afterwards. I don't use it on chassis grounds. My F-14 EE bud suggested keeping the anti corrosion treatment as pure as possible, especially if a computer is involved..
#10
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shoot - I've never left them in long enough to seize in my car - every 15k or less - never had a problem with them. now on the old cast iron 48' lincoln, that's a different story.... I've never had a plug last long enough to seize in the first place. are there really people out there that use platinum plugs in their porsches for 100k? just wondering... mine always start missing after about 10k. and they're always easy when they come out....
#11
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Most of the heat transfer to the cylinder head is through the spark plug gasket and seat. You don't want electrolysis to occur between the steel spark plug and the aluminum head.
Sherwood
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Sherwood
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