911 winterizing?
Thread Starter
1st Gear
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 1
Likes: 0
911 winterizing?
Ok guys,
I was having a discussion with a buddy regarding winterizing up here in Chicago (cold).
I have an 89 911 speedster and am wondering if I can get some advice about getting it ready for the long winter hibernation in the garage under the cover?
My last 911 received no "special treatment" for the long winter downtime and has held up beautifully over the last 12 years...........
but I have been told that just parking it is not the best idea.
I was having a discussion with a buddy regarding winterizing up here in Chicago (cold).
I have an 89 911 speedster and am wondering if I can get some advice about getting it ready for the long winter hibernation in the garage under the cover?
My last 911 received no "special treatment" for the long winter downtime and has held up beautifully over the last 12 years...........
but I have been told that just parking it is not the best idea.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 801
Likes: 6
From: United Kingdom
I'm sure you will get lots of advice but here goes with my own storage do's -
Change engine oil and filter, fill petrol tank to + 3/4. Wash whole car, including underneath and polish.
Assume you already heat/dehumidify the garage space - if not this should be a must (unless your conditions are very cold and very dry) - alternative is a carcoon type arrangement but it does depand on your space availability. I like to remove or disconnect the battery - removal is better because you can still leave it connected to a "battery saver" to maintain condition. Block the exhaust when engine is hot - keeps out mosture and unwanted visitors! Warm engine through every month and operate all electrical switches and gearbox and brakes.
If you are going to leave car on wheels then pump up tyres to 10 psi over normal pressure - still like to move car every month if left on wheels - block wheels, don't use the handbrake. My preference is to put car on axle stands and remove raod wheels, This gives me the chance to thoroughly clean the wheels back and front and remove brake pads and clean up calipers during the winter break. Occasionally lift the windscreen wipers away from the glass - left for too long they will stick to the screen - also I do not leave windscreen washer additives in the bottle - flush it out or the pump can get gunged up. Use a good indoor cover but remove and wash every couple of months - even just standing it will gather and absorb dust (may be considered extreme but it all helps). If mice are likely to be around do not leave engine lid, trunk or windows open - THEY WILL GET IN!! If the car is nice and dry internally when it is put away then it will survive without opening the windows.
Sure I've missed something but hope it is of some help as a starting point or something to reflect on. Storing is as important as the checks needed when using the car.
PJC
Change engine oil and filter, fill petrol tank to + 3/4. Wash whole car, including underneath and polish.
Assume you already heat/dehumidify the garage space - if not this should be a must (unless your conditions are very cold and very dry) - alternative is a carcoon type arrangement but it does depand on your space availability. I like to remove or disconnect the battery - removal is better because you can still leave it connected to a "battery saver" to maintain condition. Block the exhaust when engine is hot - keeps out mosture and unwanted visitors! Warm engine through every month and operate all electrical switches and gearbox and brakes.
If you are going to leave car on wheels then pump up tyres to 10 psi over normal pressure - still like to move car every month if left on wheels - block wheels, don't use the handbrake. My preference is to put car on axle stands and remove raod wheels, This gives me the chance to thoroughly clean the wheels back and front and remove brake pads and clean up calipers during the winter break. Occasionally lift the windscreen wipers away from the glass - left for too long they will stick to the screen - also I do not leave windscreen washer additives in the bottle - flush it out or the pump can get gunged up. Use a good indoor cover but remove and wash every couple of months - even just standing it will gather and absorb dust (may be considered extreme but it all helps). If mice are likely to be around do not leave engine lid, trunk or windows open - THEY WILL GET IN!! If the car is nice and dry internally when it is put away then it will survive without opening the windows.
Sure I've missed something but hope it is of some help as a starting point or something to reflect on. Storing is as important as the checks needed when using the car.
PJC
Drifting
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 3,292
Likes: 7
From: WI, US
Here's my process for winter storage which has given me good results for over 10 years now...
- Warm up car with final drive of the season.
- Fill tank with fuel not too far from home and add fuel stabilizer at the gas station if car is going to sit more than 3 months. Adding stabilizer at the gas station allows the stabilizer to work through the fuel lines completely.
- Change oil and filter.
- Wash car.
- Wax car if possible and if temperatures permit.
- Drive the car a bit so water is not standing in corners or used compressed air to blow out water from crevices.
- Remove rims and clean brake dust from inside rims. Brake dust is very corrosive!
- Treat seals and rubber trim with your favorite rubber or vinyl protectant (dont use silicone based Armor All type products). Treat the dash and interior pieces too.
- Clean and condition leather and vinyl.
- Vacuum interior and trunk area.
- Pump tires up to max pressure noted on sidewall of tire (to prevent flat spotting).
- It's not the worst idea to change transmission fluid and flush brake fluid sometime before storage.
- Drive the car onto plastic in storage area to keep condensation from forming on the underside of car from warm winter or spring days. This is important if you store your car on a concrete, stone or dirt surface.
- Block wheels.
- Leave car in neutral (manual transmission cars). Insure that the transmission is not holding the car in place.
- Do NOT set parking brake.
- Remove battery or at least disconnect negative terminal. If your battery must remain in a cold environment, charge once a month minimum. If you put your battery in the basement, it doesn't hurt to trickled charge it monthly either. A 1 to 2 amp type of charge is a good charge rate.
- Don't close doors and front trunk all the way. Just close them to the first stop. Doing that does not squash the seals as much.
- Plug air cleaner intake, exhaust pipe and cooling fan if possible. Remember to write down what you closed up so you can reverse the process in spring. You don't want to forget to remove covers from your intake or fan in spring!
- I scatter moth ***** around and under my car to discourage field mice from making nests. They do smell foul, so this step depends on your storage situation.
- Cover car
- Pray for spring
- Extract car from storage when spring arrives, be sure to remove all plugs from exhaust, intake, etc. and warm car up with a drive.
- Change oil only.
- I do NOT start my car periodically over the storage period. Starting the car during the winter months and letting it idle builds condensation. Idling never gets the car to operating temperature to burn off condensation.
- Warm up car with final drive of the season.
- Fill tank with fuel not too far from home and add fuel stabilizer at the gas station if car is going to sit more than 3 months. Adding stabilizer at the gas station allows the stabilizer to work through the fuel lines completely.
- Change oil and filter.
- Wash car.
- Wax car if possible and if temperatures permit.
- Drive the car a bit so water is not standing in corners or used compressed air to blow out water from crevices.
- Remove rims and clean brake dust from inside rims. Brake dust is very corrosive!
- Treat seals and rubber trim with your favorite rubber or vinyl protectant (dont use silicone based Armor All type products). Treat the dash and interior pieces too.
- Clean and condition leather and vinyl.
- Vacuum interior and trunk area.
- Pump tires up to max pressure noted on sidewall of tire (to prevent flat spotting).
- It's not the worst idea to change transmission fluid and flush brake fluid sometime before storage.
- Drive the car onto plastic in storage area to keep condensation from forming on the underside of car from warm winter or spring days. This is important if you store your car on a concrete, stone or dirt surface.
- Block wheels.
- Leave car in neutral (manual transmission cars). Insure that the transmission is not holding the car in place.
- Do NOT set parking brake.
- Remove battery or at least disconnect negative terminal. If your battery must remain in a cold environment, charge once a month minimum. If you put your battery in the basement, it doesn't hurt to trickled charge it monthly either. A 1 to 2 amp type of charge is a good charge rate.
- Don't close doors and front trunk all the way. Just close them to the first stop. Doing that does not squash the seals as much.
- Plug air cleaner intake, exhaust pipe and cooling fan if possible. Remember to write down what you closed up so you can reverse the process in spring. You don't want to forget to remove covers from your intake or fan in spring!
- I scatter moth ***** around and under my car to discourage field mice from making nests. They do smell foul, so this step depends on your storage situation.
- Cover car
- Pray for spring
- Extract car from storage when spring arrives, be sure to remove all plugs from exhaust, intake, etc. and warm car up with a drive.
- Change oil only.
- I do NOT start my car periodically over the storage period. Starting the car during the winter months and letting it idle builds condensation. Idling never gets the car to operating temperature to burn off condensation.
