Engine Pad Replacement, '84 Cab
Thread Starter
Legacy Flounder
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 3,439
Likes: 0
From: Cumberland, RI
Just looking to see how bad of a job it is to replace the engine pad between above / in front of the engine. Mine's starting to fall down & I've seen posts on replacement units (& costs), but didn't know if this is a 5 minute job, or a 5 hour one (along the lines of, do I bother to do it now, or wait until say, engine reseal / transaxle replacement, etc.).
Anything else I should address at the same time?
TIA!
Anything else I should address at the same time?
TIA!
Hi Fred,
Perhaps this article will be helpful to you. I have not performed the task, but this sounds relatively easy.
http://tech.rennlist.com/911/pdf/Rep...amestaylor.PDF
Good luck, Tom
Perhaps this article will be helpful to you. I have not performed the task, but this sounds relatively easy.
http://tech.rennlist.com/911/pdf/Rep...amestaylor.PDF
Good luck, Tom
Fred: With the engine in the car it is a b....! I've done many engine pads, 99% with the engine removed. With the engine in you have to put a jack under it, remove the rear outboard motor mount bolts and lower the engine until you can access the whole pad. This might require disconnecting wiring and oil lines at the oil reservoir. Then you can scrape clean and vacuum away all the bits and pieces of the old pad. I found that Heavy Duty 3M Contact Cement (aerosol) works the best - always fit the new pad before applying glue so you know how to put it in! Hope this helps...
This is pretty simple - I never understand all the talk about the challenges of of replacing the pad with the engine in place. Maybe I have unusually long/slender arms or something (I doubt that very much), but I had absolutely no difficulty ripping out the old pad and glueing in a new one (3M spray adhesive) in well under 30 minutes.
My engine was subsequently removed for a valve guide job and I was looking forward to tidying up the glue job with the engine out of the way. Yeah right, after the engine was out - there was absolutely nothing to fix.
Just remove the airbox/AFM (couple of bolts and clamps), stick a rag in the throttle body to keep gunk out your intake and then go for it.
My engine was subsequently removed for a valve guide job and I was looking forward to tidying up the glue job with the engine out of the way. Yeah right, after the engine was out - there was absolutely nothing to fix.
Just remove the airbox/AFM (couple of bolts and clamps), stick a rag in the throttle body to keep gunk out your intake and then go for it.
Hi Fred
My personal opinion is to remove the sound deadening material.
You will only notice a little increase in engine noise.
Futhermore, you reduce about 5 to 7 pounds from your car. For the RS people out there, this is a must.
Also, it makes working on the engine much easier.
My personal opinion is to remove the sound deadening material.
You will only notice a little increase in engine noise.
Futhermore, you reduce about 5 to 7 pounds from your car. For the RS people out there, this is a must.
Also, it makes working on the engine much easier.
Trending Topics
I agree with KBell in that I don't know how much sound "deadening" the pad actually does. But be aware that the new Porsche spec pads are a different composition material than the original SC/Carrera versions. The new ones weigh almost nothing and I doubt that they will eventually fall into pieces like the originals.
I like the pad because it leaves the engine area looking clean - but you could certainly do without it.
I like the pad because it leaves the engine area looking clean - but you could certainly do without it.
The new Felt/Foil pads are great and a bit easier. In my cab the old foam one had been removed. Without dropping engine I simply installed the new pad, and bent the clips down on it. I didn't glue it because I wasn't sure I was going to keep it in. I must say in a cab it makes a difference. As for the glue it hasn't moved yet.


