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3.2 Top End rebuild

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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 07:06 PM
  #1  
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Default 3.2 Top End rebuild

Just got back from the shop with the bad news - leak down test confirms my wrenches suspicions - broken head studs.

All cylinders ( 2-7%) except for #1 at 24%!. with the 24% leaking at the base of the cylinder. Best part is that this takes me out of a Watkins Glen DE at peak foliage time. Enough whining.

'86 Carrera has 99K miles. I guess 3.2s do break studs.

Plan is to do complete top end rebuild with race ware studs, top and bottom.
( approx $3500). My mechanic says there should be no need look at the bottom as they last forever.

While everything is out . the plan is to do the 915 rebuild, at least synchros but whatever is necessary.($1300-1800)

I don't want to have to go there again, I drive the car about 6K miles a year and will be eligible for early bird specials next year.

Any other suggestons while we are in there?

Inputs appreciated.
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 08:08 PM
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drink a couple beers drown some sorrow
You'll feel beter in the morning

clutch?
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 10:02 PM
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You mean a few more?

Clutch has only got about 25K, but we'll check.
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Old Sep 24, 2004 | 10:49 PM
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Good, We needed a 3.2 mod thread!

I would suggest the raceware studs, I got some trick stainless ones from Performance Developments as I live 3 blocks from the ocean and studs corode, some 964 cams are a good investment, clean up the intake ports (just clean a little DON"T polish them smooth!) clean up the intake manifold, if you have the extra $500 have the heads machined for twin plugs even if they sit vacant for 2 years untill you get around to finishing it (unlees you bump your compression). you can change compression ratios, lots of options. my botom end in my 3.2 lasted just 181K before the bearing for #5 rod had a retirement party.

Unless you want to short stack your gearing, if your 915 is fine, leave it alone as it only takes a few hours to have the whole thing out again anyway, but if you have a forged flywheel, you can have it lightened and get the aluminum pressure plate and they rev like a crotch rocket!
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Old Sep 25, 2004 | 10:57 AM
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I would take it right down to the crankshaft "while you are in there". The main reason woyld be to upgrade the rod bolts, and secondarily to inspect for abnormal bearing wear.

If budget allows 98mm high c/r p/c used w/ 964 grind cams, twin plug heads, are always nice.
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Old Sep 25, 2004 | 02:59 PM
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Bill.Good to hear from someone in the 'hood.

I'l ask Rick at R&D about the crank while we are in progress.
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Old Sep 25, 2004 | 11:16 PM
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You can replace your rod bolts and bearings without splitting the bottom end(I did it on my last rebuild) just cant change the mains.
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