Dr. Tom

I am planning to install struts & brakes from a 1988 911 on my 1972 911. Aside from the alignment, is this a "driveway job"? Are there any special tools required or any special precautions I should take? Thanks!

Bill Gregory

The '72 and '88 ball joints are the same (911.341.049.01) so you should be OK as far as fitting the strut into the a-arms. I'd use this opportunity to replace the ball joint, while you have it apart. There is a special tool to tighten the ball joint nut on, however, you may be able to improvise around it (I have the tool, so haven't tried improvising myself). The Carrera brakes will provide a nice brake upgrade for your lighter 72 chassis.

Roland Kunz

Hello

Simple task. Check the ball joint on the strut end if it has a normal bolt or the later wedge style stud.
Porsche parts have low tolerances so you might not need to rush to the aligment.

Are you "upgradeing" the rear too ?

Grüsse

RoninLB

Not sure of how the application fits your car weight/balance. I'd check how the new system is tuned to your car. I'd tune the car height/corner balance with good shocks first. Break-in new brakes throughly and give it a hard braking test. I heat tires up for 15 miles at highway speeds. Then I start at 60 mph and lockem up. Cool them down for another 5 miles. If it feels good, I work my way up to 90 mph. I feel that tuning the brake system is part of the game. Early lock-up of front wheels is not unusual. Front wheels are supposed to lock-up slightly ahead of rear to avoid tail coming out. I'm not an expert, maybe someone who knows more will show up here..........Ron

Dr. Tom

Thanks for the feedback! Good call on the ball joints. I have already replaced the original steel trailing arms with aluminum units from an SC with adjustable spring plates, so struts/brakes should bring me up to date.

Dave Bouzaglou

Whenver you install aluminum rear arms on an earlier 911 (73 down to 69) VERY important to check the rear shock travel. We have found on some of the early cars that the shock dust covers rub against the main rear shock body and sometimes against the heat exhangers. The heat exchanger issue is easy to resolve, bend the exchanger housing in enough to clear. The rear arms may need the lower bolt mounting pad cut 1/2" (use shorter mounting bolts too) to line up the shock body correctly in the upper mounting area. That way you don't have the wrong geometry during suspension travel.

Roland Kunz

Hello


The brake balance isn´t hurt. However the thiker discs hit into the unsprung wight and eveyone has to decide what to do. The nwer brakes does not barke better they have more heat capacity with is helpfull on hard runs but for one emergency stop from high speed the difference is as marginal as your reaction time differs. As he installs the complete strut the suspension stays balanced to the unsprung wight and some people go to big heavy fat tires on the front witch will run over the limits from the strut and require a Bilstein turbo unit but only some people care.


The 1970 on cars have the same shock brace position like all the following years but even then it is very close and can shuffle on the pre 75 heat excangers.

On pre 69 it is much more work.

Grüsse