sociallobster

Hello all,

I originally posted regarding reviving my wifes uncles Porsche 911 SC here:
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...-reviving.html

Well, I cannot believe it has been 8 years since I posted here but life got in the way. Moved across country for a job, bought a house, had a baby. So here we are!

I realise I never followed up on the post above. When I got to the car, the first thing I did was look at the tank and it was a holy mess. Left half filled and the upper half had rusted so badly that the fuel was dark brown. I know enough about K-jet systems to know that even turning the ignition on would have ruined it so with my limited time and tools, I left it. I did get to pull the (nylon) injector lines and they looked dry and clean, which was at least a bonus.

As time goes on, my uncle in law keeps dropping more hints about me having it if I can get it running, but is equally happy to leave it in his garage is seems for now. I have said that the work it needs is more than just a weekend in his garage with some tools, and that I'd rather move it to my garage where I can take my time with it and absolutely fit a new fuel tank before doing anything else to it.

With that in mind, I'm trying to formulate a plan and parts list to get it running and then driving. Noting that it was taken off the road in 2003 for 'an oil leak'. So far I have:

Change fuel tank
Clean fuel system, new fuel filter
Remove lines by injectors and flush them with clean fuel
Flush injectors with clean fuel, check they are spraying properly

Attempt to start
Check engine starts and runs without major issue
Check and catalogue oil leaks

Repair:
Remove engine and replace all seals highlighted in the guide here:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Leak_Fixes.htm
I cannot confirm, but believe the car has the original valve covers so for the moment would plan on just replacing the gaskets with a view to updating to the aluminum covers later.
Would it be simpler/cost effective to simply get a gasket set and replace everything?
New oil and filter after re-install

Assuming I replace the above, and I plan to replace any rubber components like tyres, brake hoses etc once the engine is running ok, is there anything else I should look for? I have a friend with a 1979 (I believe) SC who has all the specific tools needed to work on these engines that I can borrow, so that is not something I have to factor in.

I do realise that there will be likely other issues to address, but am concentrating on the main focal points above that should get it running and driving.

Thank you in advance. I hope to have developments on this sometime in the near future.

theiceman

if you are taking the valve covers of you may was well inspect and make sure all 24 head studs are intact and adjust the valves while you are in there. .

Mark Salvetti

Replying here after also reading responses to your Pelican thread (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...c-revival.html).

Question: Is it a 1980 (as you posted in 2015) or a 1983? Since you mentioned poly fuel lines, I'm guessing 1980 is correct. Doesn't matter that much.

In your old thread I offered hope the fuel tank was going to be OK, but sounds like that's not the case. If you are going to buy a new replacement, you want one of the new Dansk tanks that has the internal filter. For years they didn't have that. See this recent thread for the correct part number: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...er-filter.html . It will be black painted steel so it will need to be coated if you want to protect it.

The other related issue isn't the fuel accumulator as much as the fuel distributor. That doesn't like to sit with old gas in it. As a Pelican poster mentioned, the plunger in the middle can seize. If that happens, there is no control of fuel feed. The other issue can be clogging of the tiny orifices that are supposed to send equal fuel flow to each injector.

Cleaning the fuel system is easier said than done. I think I would try adding a few gallons of fuel to the new tank, and then see if the fuel pump runs (it could easily be seized) by jumping the pins on the red fuel pump relay (http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...ay-bypass.html). That is the only way to get the fuel pump to run without trying to start the car (you can also lift the throttle plate but I wouldn't do that right now). If the fuel pump runs, it will circulate fuel to the fuel filter, the fuel distributor, and then recycle back to the tank. Let it run for a while to clean things up.

Then I would try to start it. It probably won't run, at least not well. The next step would be to pull the fuel injectors out (much simpler with your poly fuel lines than with the later steel lines), place each injector in a jar, lift the throttle plate with the fuel pump running, and verify that there is an equal amount of fuel going to each injector and that it is well atomized. If it's not, then there is more work to do. Maybe the fuel distributor, maybe clogged injectors.

Then there are the head studs. One of the Pelican responses mentioned this, as does Iceman. The SCs have an issue with broken lower head studs (the exhaust side). If you take off the lower valve covers, the broken ones will fall out. But honestly, I would try to get it running before worrying about the head studs. Yours may be fine. It will run even if there are several broken ones. Get the fuel system sorted, then worry about engine work.

Hope this is helpful.

Mark

sociallobster

Hey Mark,

I remember, and thank you for replying again! I realise this is a long running saga and am playing the long game with it. Hopefully it works out. I have some experience of Bosch K Jet systems with some old Mercedes that my dad used to have, so am fairly aware of the perils when they go wrong.

I am VERY happy to see the new Dansk tanks have the included filter. I had studied many of the Pelican threads preparing myself for the inline filter mods that used to have to be done on the old ones.

As always, your post was helpful, thank you very much.