Help how do you open G series hood?
09-18-2023, 07:11 AM
#1
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Help how do you open G series hood?
Hi, new owner here of a 3.2 g series targa, I'm trying to figure out how to open the hood, I have pulled the lever inside and the hood pops open about 2 inches, after that do I have to press a latch or something? If so I cannot seem to locate it? Any help will be much appreciated.
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SamBroh (09-18-2023)
09-18-2023, 12:44 PM
#4
analyst
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Welcome to the forum.
Good luck w/ your new ride.
Please post images of your vehicle (plus questions as they arise), but especially pictures.
Good luck w/ your new ride.
Please post images of your vehicle (plus questions as they arise), but especially pictures.
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SamBroh (09-20-2023)
09-18-2023, 02:07 PM
#5
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Welcome to Rennlist! Show us some photos when you get a chance. Targa's are great. 
This is also a good time to tell you how to close the hood.
Lower it to engage the safety latch, then press with both hands near the front edge of the hood below the crest. If you press on the hood higher, you can dent it.
Mark
This is also a good time to tell you how to close the hood.
Lower it to engage the safety latch, then press with both hands near the front edge of the hood below the crest. If you press on the hood higher, you can dent it.
Mark
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SamBroh (09-20-2023)
09-20-2023, 02:16 PM
#7
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Ah yes will post pictures for sure, currently awful weather in London so waiting for the rain to stop but forecast until Friday 
And certainly do have a few questions, purchased site unseen so you can only imagine!
And certainly do have a few questions, purchased site unseen so you can only imagine!
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09-20-2023, 06:05 PM
#11
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- Oil changes are about 10 quarts. Have a big pan, many of us have left a big pool of oil on the garage floor from our first change. The oil comes out of the tank very fast. Also drain the engine sump.
- Carry a spare DME relay, as they fail and leave you with a no-start. Goes under the drivers seat.
- Oil level is accurate on the dipstick only with the engine up to temperature, on a level surface, and idling. Your oil level gauge on the dash may or may not be very accurate. If it is accurate, that is also only at idle. When driving it always sits low.
- Check the oil every 500-1000 miles until you get a handle on how much you use. 911 engines can consume a lot, you need to really watch this if you are used to a modern car that uses almost no oil.
- You need to use an oil that has high zinc and phosphorous anti-wear additives to protect the cam lobes. Many modern oils have cut back on these because they can poison the cats. But we need them. Common choices are Valvoline Racing 20W-50, Brad Penn 20W-50, Mobil 1 15W-50.
- If the front suspension squeaks over bumps or if you push down on the fender, you probably need new front A-arm bushings.
- Never use a synthetic gear oil in that gearbox (you have a 915 gearbox). Kendall 80W-90 and Swepco 201 are common choices. If you have limited slip, you'll need an additive.
- 915 gearboxes can be quirky. Likely won't shift like a modern box. Avoid downshifting to 1st gear while moving, and don't speed shift. The 1-2 upshift should occur over 4,000 rpm. Don't shift too early. Learn to upshift with a slight pause between gears. The shift coupler (accessible through the floor in front of the back seat) is often a source of poor shifting. The plastic bushings sometimes crumble, but the shifter bushings that were replaced on your car were likely in the coupling.
- Watch your battery. Consider an AGM to greatly reduce the chances of an acid spill. Rust, rust, rust.
- The 3.2L fuel lines on top of the engine are pretty old at this point, and leaks can happen. Lots of threads on the need to replace these if they are original. Something to consider down the road.
- You can download a pdf of the parts catalog with exploded view diagrams here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessor...artscatalogue/
- Don't expect the AC to work very well.
- Don't reset the trip odometer while the car is moving. It strips the gear and it will stop working.
- The instrument lights are not fused. You should add one. Easy to do, use the search function here and at Pelican Parts (a more active air-cooled forum than we have here). This is a good thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...tallation.html
- The full headlight current goes through the switch. You need to add headlight relays if you upgrade to higher power bulbs. Your car has H4 headlights, so it could already be running high wattage bulbs. Good idea to do this anyway. Pelican Parts sells a relay kit. Fairly easy install.
- The Bentley manual is a good repair manual (
). I wouldn't bother with the Haynes manual. Next step up would be the factory manuals, but they are a few hundred dollars.
Also 101 Projects (
). I wouldn't bother with the Haynes manual. Next step up would be the factory manuals, but they are a few hundred dollars. - Pelican Parts classifieds is a great resource for used parts, just be sure to use PayPal goods a services and buy from someone established until you get your feet wet.
Mark
09-21-2023, 04:06 PM
#13
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
Great! This will be a fun journey. Here are some tips for new owners from an old post of mine:
Mark
- Oil changes are about 10 quarts. Have a big pan, many of us have left a big pool of oil on the garage floor from our first change. The oil comes out of the tank very fast. Also drain the engine sump.
- Carry a spare DME relay, as they fail and leave you with a no-start. Goes under the drivers seat.
- Oil level is accurate on the dipstick only with the engine up to temperature, on a level surface, and idling. Your oil level gauge on the dash may or may not be very accurate. If it is accurate, that is also only at idle. When driving it always sits low.
- Check the oil every 500-1000 miles until you get a handle on how much you use. 911 engines can consume a lot, you need to really watch this if you are used to a modern car that uses almost no oil.
- You need to use an oil that has high zinc and phosphorous anti-wear additives to protect the cam lobes. Many modern oils have cut back on these because they can poison the cats. But we need them. Common choices are Valvoline Racing 20W-50, Brad Penn 20W-50, Mobil 1 15W-50.
- If the front suspension squeaks over bumps or if you push down on the fender, you probably need new front A-arm bushings.
- Never use a synthetic gear oil in that gearbox (you have a 915 gearbox). Kendall 80W-90 and Swepco 201 are common choices. If you have limited slip, you'll need an additive.
- 915 gearboxes can be quirky. Likely won't shift like a modern box. Avoid downshifting to 1st gear while moving, and don't speed shift. The 1-2 upshift should occur over 4,000 rpm. Don't shift too early. Learn to upshift with a slight pause between gears. The shift coupler (accessible through the floor in front of the back seat) is often a source of poor shifting. The plastic bushings sometimes crumble, but the shifter bushings that were replaced on your car were likely in the coupling.
- Watch your battery. Consider an AGM to greatly reduce the chances of an acid spill. Rust, rust, rust.
- The 3.2L fuel lines on top of the engine are pretty old at this point, and leaks can happen. Lots of threads on the need to replace these if they are original. Something to consider down the road.
- You can download a pdf of the parts catalog with exploded view diagrams here: https://www.porsche.com/usa/accessor...artscatalogue/
- Don't expect the AC to work very well.
- Don't reset the trip odometer while the car is moving. It strips the gear and it will stop working.
- The instrument lights are not fused. You should add one. Easy to do, use the search function here and at Pelican Parts (a more active air-cooled forum than we have here). This is a good thread: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...tallation.html
- The full headlight current goes through the switch. You need to add headlight relays if you upgrade to higher power bulbs. Your car has H4 headlights, so it could already be running high wattage bulbs. Good idea to do this anyway. Pelican Parts sells a relay kit. Fairly easy install.
- The Bentley manual is a good repair manual (
https://www.amazon.com/Porsche-911-C...20391057&psc=1
). I wouldn't bother with the Haynes manual. Next step up would be the factory manuals, but they are a few hundred dollars.
Also 101 Projects (
101 Projects for Porsche 911 101 Projects for Porsche 911
). I wouldn't bother with the Haynes manual. Next step up would be the factory manuals, but they are a few hundred dollars. - Pelican Parts classifieds is a great resource for used parts, just be sure to use PayPal goods a services and buy from someone established until you get your feet wet.
Mark
09-21-2023, 04:07 PM
#14
Cruisin'
Thread Starter
some info in here .. a lot of it is tongue in cheek but has proved useful.
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...101-class.html
https://rennlist.com/forums/911-foru...101-class.html
checking it out now.
09-21-2023, 05:16 PM
#15
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