rowingone

Very much familiar with the trials and tribulations of restorations . . I have just finished a 66 C2 corvette frame off . . need a new project and yes this possible purchase is definitely a project .. .might be more expensive part wise than even C2 corvette parts . .I love to take something ugly and make it whole again! I did post on Pelican but got no response . . I know that these forums can be invaluable for restorations especially with cars you have never experienced before. We will see if I get the price I think is fair.

rowingone

Just finished my current project . . . 1966 Corvette numbers matching 427/ 390 4 speed. It is a beast!

Spyerx

Wow that’s really nice. Just a warning Porsche prices especially mechanicals are eye watering!!! I think the heads on my 71 cost as much as a Chevy crate motor.

rowingone

Yes good point . . when it comes to Porsche engines . . I think I will be surprised with the prices. The nice thing about the C2 Corvette is that there are many vendors that make reproduction parts at reasonable prices .. not so with Porsche? Given the number of Porsche restorations I am surprised there is not a similar situation with Porsche parts. I am looking at mid to late 70s 911s . . other than a leak down test and visuals for leaks and rust is there anything else I should be concerned about? With the Corvettes numbers matching is important .. but were most of the other parts date coded like starters, alternators etc as with older Corvettes?

raspritz

Porsche restoration and Chevy restoration are apples and oranges. Yes, numbers-matching is important. No, Porsche parts are not normally date-coded (except wheels and early steering wheels), but the parts changed so frequently (with different or superseding parts numbers) they might as well be. The restoration parts situation is far better today than a decade ago, but many parts still have not been reproduced (there is a thread on exactly that topic over on the Early Esses site), and other parts are simply NLA so you need to scour ebay looking for good used parts (e.g. the intermediate gear for a SWB engine) or buy different parts and have them machined to fit (e.g. SWB 911S 2.0 valves). And Porsche parts are $$$$$. All told, the Porsche resto time-frame is much longer than a Chevy. I'm currently rebuilding the engine on my '67; I expect the machine shop will take 6 months to get my parts back to me. If not longer.

Spyerx

^^ Above is all accurate, the good thing about the G series cars (mid-late 70s) is they made a LOT of them, and the changes are evolving over the term of G which lasted from 1973.5-1989, a very long run, but, many, many iterative changes over that time. The earlier cars are hard to find parts for. Especially since if you're doing a concourse level restoration the changes year to year were micro small. All my cars are bastardized assembly of my vision of a fun early car so... these things matter less to me personally.

I think, if you assume the chassis isn't rotted out and your engine turns, and most of the pieces are there, if you enjoy the process you'll be OK, just be aware things can move slower, and raspritz is right on some of the time on certain aspects of the cars. The other thing to look out for is cars that were 'forward dated' and cut up to make them look like the newer lines/models... those may be difficult to put back.

Porsche started to galvanize their bodies in 76-77 so those may have less rot. The cars from 74-77 used a magnesium case motor. These had issues early on,, mainly due to the emissions controls at time creating heat that caused the head studs to pull and cases to warp. The 78+ 3.0 SC motors are aluminum case and generally more robust. That said I have a hot rod 77 cased motor and with effort / proper build they can be made right. The fascinating thing about the porsche evolution is how many parts are interchangeable - for example my 77 engine is build to 2.8L, it has fully custom heads, it has rods from a 2007 GT3 cup car, custom crankshaft, bearings from the 2007 cup race car, oil pump from a 2004 porsche turbo, intermediate shaft from a gt3, engine controls are custom EFI/ITB. It revs to 8500 and makes over 280hp on crappy CA pump gas....
But the number of shops that know how to properly treat and machine those cases is a short list. (Ollies in lake Havasu for example). The transmissions are generally robust and from 72-86 were similar 915 design and from a porsche perspective not terribly $ and are available. The suspension components are all available. And the interior trimming is generally available.

Anyway, if you have an eye for older cars I think you'll know what to look for in general, but having someone put eyes on a candidate that knows the cars/generations may help you gauge what you're getting into.

rowingone

Thanks Spyerx , , good advice there. I am most interested in the 78 -79 .. I will let you all know when I find and purchase my next project. Nice to know I can come here for good advice!

alfetta

I have a 1985 grey market car. The FMVSS sticker is legitimate and appears correct. The VIN tage riveted at the bottom is also not unsual. The importers all used different VIN tags and I have seen all kinds including mylar-type material stickers as well as metal stamped ones located on the door pillar. As to the side markets and rear bumperettes, many importers put on US bumperettes and many subsequent owners removed the markers when repainting or fixing fenders.

rowingone

Thanks Alfetta .. that was the info I was looking for.

Dr_flokk

how much are you thinking on bidding on it?

Dr_flokk

I assume you. have seen it in person? to me that primer location says previous damage, very likely fire i think

Dr. 914

gray market car imported around 1984 during the gray market import allowance era

alfetta

This is a grey market FMVSS tag. Not required after the car is over 25 years old. Usually a Mylar sticker, tarry have I seen mine riveted in.