Questions prior to purchase.
12-22-2022, 08:20 AM
#1
Questions prior to purchase.
In the process of acquiring a used Porsche 911. 1981 Targa. 108k miles. A driver not collector. The seller is a reputable person and very long time Porsche mechanic who is going to personally warranty the car. I’m gathering a list of questions/checklist to go over with him prior to purchase. What would be the must haves on this list? Again, this is a driver, so I’m not concerned with paint condition, or cosmetics. This is more mechanical related. I know there are folks on here that could rattle off a long list. I look forward to your responses.
12-22-2022, 08:54 AM
#2
In the process of acquiring a used Porsche 911. 1981 Targa. 108k miles. A driver not collector. The seller is a reputable person and very long time Porsche mechanic who is going to personally warranty the car. I’m gathering a list of questions/checklist to go over with him prior to purchase. What would be the must haves on this list? Again, this is a driver, so I’m not concerned with paint condition, or cosmetics. This is more mechanical related. I know there are folks on here that could rattle off a long list. I look forward to your responses.
The 3 liter engines in the SC have a well known issue with the head studs, which are prone to breaking, so I'd start by asking if they have been replaced. I'll let the true experts here provide the rest of the list...
12-22-2022, 09:04 AM
#3
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That sounds like a nice situation, particularly if the mechanic’s warranty covers major unexpected issues for some length of time. Did he give details of what it means for him to personally warranty the car?
12-22-2022, 11:17 AM
#4
Three Wheelin'
you're buying the seller not the car. if you like and trust the seller the car will be fine... it's an air-cooled 911 after all... if you don't trust the seller it doesn't matter how nice the car is.
just my $0.02. best of luck.
just my $0.02. best of luck.
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Qtrfoil (12-22-2022)
12-22-2022, 12:15 PM
#5
this isn’t whether or not I trust the seller This is just piece of mind for me. Would like to have a list of things to go over with him. He will tell me if they’ve been done or not or the results of the work. This is for my education as well as piece of mind. Would be nice to have the list for possible future purchases as well! Appreciate the input so far!
12-22-2022, 03:45 PM
#6
Team Owner
as an owner of an SC Targa there are a few things i can advise. I have 250K km on mine ..
head studs , have they been replaced and are any broken.
what are the heat exchangers like are they rusted out ...
how is the second gear synchro ? can you down shift into second easily ?
to be honest with you ,, thats it ... the SC is a rock solid car with that 3.0 liter engine.. if the CIS is set up and running the car is amazing. it doesnt have ref sensor or head temp sensors to go bad etc , its a damn solid air cooled car and the ideal entry point
head studs , have they been replaced and are any broken.
what are the heat exchangers like are they rusted out ...
how is the second gear synchro ? can you down shift into second easily ?
to be honest with you ,, thats it ... the SC is a rock solid car with that 3.0 liter engine.. if the CIS is set up and running the car is amazing. it doesnt have ref sensor or head temp sensors to go bad etc , its a damn solid air cooled car and the ideal entry point
Last edited by theiceman; 12-23-2022 at 10:15 AM.
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bigchungus (12-23-2022)
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12-23-2022, 09:43 AM
#8
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Rust is the next big thing after the head studs. How does the area around the battery look in the front trunk? Look closely at the underside of front pan where the torsion bars mount. If a battery leaks the acid can run down into the front part of the pan and rot it out from inside. Unfortunately not unusual.
Also look along the rockers (along the door sill) and the kidney bowls (the vertical panel where the door latch is fastened). There are no wheel liners, so debris can be tossed forward by the rear tires and accumulate against the back of those panels.
Lastly the window seals. Check the lower front corners of the windshield, looking for any rust that may be creeping out from under the rubber seal. Can also be an issue with the rear - if water gets in the rear it can accumulate under the rear seats and rot out the body there.
By 1981 the bodies were fully galvanized so rust is not as much a concern as it is for the early cars, but it can still be hiding in places where it is hard to find.
Mark
Also look along the rockers (along the door sill) and the kidney bowls (the vertical panel where the door latch is fastened). There are no wheel liners, so debris can be tossed forward by the rear tires and accumulate against the back of those panels.
Lastly the window seals. Check the lower front corners of the windshield, looking for any rust that may be creeping out from under the rubber seal. Can also be an issue with the rear - if water gets in the rear it can accumulate under the rear seats and rot out the body there.
By 1981 the bodies were fully galvanized so rust is not as much a concern as it is for the early cars, but it can still be hiding in places where it is hard to find.
Mark
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bigchungus (12-23-2022)
12-23-2022, 10:18 AM
#9
Team Owner
Rust is the next big thing after the head studs. How does the area around the battery look in the front trunk? Look closely at the underside of front pan where the torsion bars mount. If a battery leaks the acid can run down into the front part of the pan and rot it out from inside. Unfortunately not unusual.
Also look along the rockers (along the door sill) and the kidney bowls (the vertical panel where the door latch is fastened). There are no wheel liners, so debris can be tossed forward by the rear tires and accumulate against the back of those panels.
Lastly the window seals. Check the lower front corners of the windshield, looking for any rust that may be creeping out from under the rubber seal. Can also be an issue with the rear - if water gets in the rear it can accumulate under the rear seats and rot out the body there.
By 1981 the bodies were fully galvanized so rust is not as much a concern as it is for the early cars, but it can still be hiding in places where it is hard to find.
Mark
Also look along the rockers (along the door sill) and the kidney bowls (the vertical panel where the door latch is fastened). There are no wheel liners, so debris can be tossed forward by the rear tires and accumulate against the back of those panels.
Lastly the window seals. Check the lower front corners of the windshield, looking for any rust that may be creeping out from under the rubber seal. Can also be an issue with the rear - if water gets in the rear it can accumulate under the rear seats and rot out the body there.
By 1981 the bodies were fully galvanized so rust is not as much a concern as it is for the early cars, but it can still be hiding in places where it is hard to find.
Mark
yeah good points, i never really considered those particular things to look for on an SC over any other car , but very valid, especially if that battery has boiled over... very bad news indeed .