AndrewCologne

Thats odd, as IF you disconnect the ECU which also makes the FV being switched off, your AFR would rise significantly resulting in a very lean and rouggh idle.
Maybe your initial CO setting is that far off so it cant be compensated by the ECU.

With hot engine state, what does the CO tester read at idle with OX Sensor unplugged? It should result in 0.4-0.8 CO.

Not_Sure

Hmmm, good point, sorta. But I guess thats where the mystery lies.
Basically, I start the car, FV is working/AF around 13.....
Engine warms, FV stops and AF goes to 9.8;
Unplug Lambda Car returns to "normal" AF 12-13. (but the FV was already stopped.)

I dont have a CO tester just a Wideband O2

Not_Sure

Just thought about something:
Unless im confused. This time the OPPOSITE happened?
Car Warmed up, and when the FV stopped, it went RICH,
Where as before when it stopped, it Went LEAN. (or at least, last time I drove somewhere, parked and restarted the car, it was so lean I had to enrich the mixture, then when I got home, the FV seemed to work again and when i parked, it was really rich.)

systemsc

This can occur if the O2 sensor input (pin 2) is grounded, or the enrichment pins (12/14) are grounded, because the ECU goes full rich (FV stops oscillating).

Not_Sure

Ok, is it ok to test them with out the Box plugged in? as i dont see how to do it with the box connected.

systemsc

Yes, disconnect the ECU and use an ohmmeter to check the pins. You can also take the connector shell (cover) off and back probe the connector
using a voltmeter with the key on. Pin 2 (O2) sensor voltage should be about .50 volts with the sensor disconnected.

Not_Sure

Finally got to do some testing.
first tested the O2 with the engine warmed and running and got initially 0.43v and after aboout 30min of running went to 0.39v

I pulled the cover off the connector and here are the readings

#8 11.5
#12 10.6
#15 8.3v-9.0v
#17 2.95v

AT the FV the Brown/Y wire 9.2V
Black/Gn wire 11.6

also I pulled connector off the throttle switch, and the Idle Jumped up. which might be expected.

Also I unplugged the O2 Relay next to the Lambda unit, and it responded just as if I had unplugged the labmda.

At one point, once the FV became intermittent and weak sounding, when I would crack the throttle, the FV would come back.

Now heres another possible thing I think My alternator is a little weak could that have anything to do with it?
Reason i ask is that now the FV is running full time when I flip the Fuel pump switch (where as previously it would only run for a few seconds) (but I had the charger on and in the "engine start" setting)
The other thing is that ambient air temps were a little colder wonder if it is some Temp related issue, might that have anything to do with why the FV was running longer this time.

Not_Sure

Update tonight, I started the car, FV was running Fullly, AF was "in the green" then after 5+ min the A/F went lean, and the idle dropped, FV was still running but weaker, I decided to test the O2 At the Computer, it was fluctuating quite a bit.
Then i went under and disconnected the o2 and the idle came back up, and the A//F was in the green, slightly rich around 12.5 but steady.

So im just going to order one from amazon, since they are only $11 (bosch 11027) and see what happens!

I think im also going to wire in either a switch or connector on the O2 wire in the cabin so I can "turn off" the O2 sensor.

Not_Sure

I forgot to give fix. SO turns out it was the O2 sensor, put a new one in and it fixed the issues. (even though the one that was in it only had a few hundred miles, but im guessing the starting/running rich must have fouled it.