I'm looking to replace the clutch in my G50 '87 3.2. It's not slipping, but has a very high engagement point. If my flywheel can just be resurfaced (and not replaced), what have some of you paid to replace the clutch/ reasonable cost?
Thanks.

 

Labor rates vary greatly across the US, if you are asking about that.

or do you mean parts prices?

 

did it myself so just the cost of the kit
Very rewarding project that has you pull the motor , separate the transmission and replace the clutch.

 

R911 - was just thinking of a reasonable range of clutch job costs including labor. I'm thinking in the $3k+ neighborhood. Reasonable guesstimate on my part?

The Iceman - what kit did you purchase?

Thanks.

 

answer = # hours * hourly rate

 

Picking mine up this week. Think it will be about $2500.

 

funny you should ask this . i did mine 5 years ago and i think i just used stock sachs clutch from rock auto or something i just don't remember. But strangely enough my buddies release bearing let go on the weekend and we were able to get a scope in through the access whole and confirm it so i was going to ask what is the replacement stock kit these days ?

i think sachs still has one on rock auto for reasonable , but im not sure what the latest "go to" it is to recommend to him. I know lots of guys go to aluminum pressure plate racing clutches, but i think its over the top for an occasional use street driven 3.2 thats a pleasure vehicle only.

anyone have any thoughts ?

 

1. As said, labor rates vary immensely so best to ask in your region. Here on the left coast, watch out, it has always been ridiculous here, but now it is downright frightening!
2. Like Iceman, I had my SC replaced many years ago, and I went with stock Sachs etc. Nothing esoteric or "extra," just the Sachs plus factory whatevers required. This car has since seen avid track use and shifts/engages as well today as since the replacement.
3. Funny that this very same question is on the 993 board, so I will reply likewise with this: at the age/mileage many of our cars are at, it is prudent at this juncture to have the engine out and all ancillary parts surveyed and replaced as needed. Unless the engine has been out recently for whatever other reason, this is the perfect time to do a full check/renewal of stuff that would be a pain to get to when the engine is in. So what you find at this juncture is your biggest variable on cost.

Edward

 

As others have said, once the motor and transmission are out, check rear main seal, pilot bearing, release arm, new flywheel bolts for sure, throwout bearing, etc. The actual sachs clutch cost me $181, the pilot bearing was $58, etc. The big cost is dropping the engine. Putting a clutch in after removing the transmission takes about 5 minutes.

 

where did you source your parts ?

so you did not go with the whole kit including pressure plate i gather , just the disk and T/O bearing ... ?

 

AutohauzAZ: https://www.autohausaz.com/

Pressure plate was in good shape, as was the TO bearing. The pilot bearing I changed as a preventative item. These recs were based on a friend who serviced these cars for more than 40 years. He also had the factory main seal tool and installed the new main seal, which you really do not want to change unless you have to.

 

yup i think that's where Edward and myself got ours 5 years ago if i remember correctly. That place is great but only works for me shipping to the border, and until that border opens im hooped....

 

I got a quote of $3200. Includes changing the rear main seal. Not sure if that is typical for a clutch replacement.

 

Labor from a good East coast shop in my experience 150 an hour. For someone like myself who isn’t mechanically inclined I think the thing you need to think about is since the engine already needs to be dropped it makes sense to probably address things on the engine if you haven’t had anything serviced or replaced in a while so it can add up but worth it in the long run

 

900Series just did a clutch replacement on our years 911