turn signal/high beam switch
03-24-2004, 07:14 PM
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turn signal/high beam switch
My high / low beam switch on my 82 911SC is acting up. I have to hold the handle foward (toward me) to get the low beam to stay on, otherwise, the high beam stays on. The handle will click back to the high beam setting and stay there without trouble. Is there any adjusting that can be done? Do I need a new switch, and if so, how do I replace it?
Thanks.
Chris
82 911SC
Thanks.
Chris
82 911SC
03-24-2004, 08:20 PM
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Chris,
You may need to replace it, but there is a chance that the contacts may be dirty. In the past, I have had similar problems resovled by spraying an electrical contact cleaner, then an electrical contact lube into the stalk at the steering column. I also cured a non-working electric window switch in the same way. ****Careful to make sure that the stuff you buy doesn't "eat" plastic.****
Does you vehicle have H2's or other up-graded lights? And if so, do you have a relay installed?
regards,
Steve
You may need to replace it, but there is a chance that the contacts may be dirty. In the past, I have had similar problems resovled by spraying an electrical contact cleaner, then an electrical contact lube into the stalk at the steering column. I also cured a non-working electric window switch in the same way. ****Careful to make sure that the stuff you buy doesn't "eat" plastic.****
Does you vehicle have H2's or other up-graded lights? And if so, do you have a relay installed?
regards,
Steve
03-25-2004, 02:11 PM
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Some people have "gotten away" with cleaning the switch, but my sense is that the fix doesn't last too long. If you're going to go to the trouble of pulling the wheel to get to the switch, you might as well replace it. The switch is about $85 from Pelican.
It's not a difficult job, but it is time consuming. There are a bunch of wires that run from the stalk switch to the back of the headlight switch. You need to replace them one at a time to be sure you do it correctly.
Also, now's the time to install the Sucro headlight relay kit. It's $20 from fellow Rennlister Marcus Sucro, and it will prevent your new switch from getting fried like the old one.
You can easily do the headlight switch and relay kit in a few hours on a Saturday. Both are worthwhile projects.
Good luck.
It's not a difficult job, but it is time consuming. There are a bunch of wires that run from the stalk switch to the back of the headlight switch. You need to replace them one at a time to be sure you do it correctly.
Also, now's the time to install the Sucro headlight relay kit. It's $20 from fellow Rennlister Marcus Sucro, and it will prevent your new switch from getting fried like the old one.
You can easily do the headlight switch and relay kit in a few hours on a Saturday. Both are worthwhile projects.
Good luck.
03-25-2004, 04:45 PM
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When you are trying to remove the plastic around the steering column--after you have removed the wheel, there are 4 screws behind the wheel hub that are obvious, but there are hmmm i think two more , one at the top and one at the bottom that connect the two halves together, and so run perpendicular to the steering column. the cover(s) should almost literally fall off. if they don't, you missed a screw. Think twice do once. Also be careful about dropping the screws into the steering column.
As for the switch, dirty contacts can be a cause. Also, there is a metal lever along the bottom of the switch that is operated by the signal lever and in turn operates the contacts. There is a plastic pushrod at the end of it. This can wear down and not move the contact far enough. Being cheap and poor <smile> I fixed mine with epoxy and a Dremel. Has lasted a year so far.
BTW, Disconnect the battery while you do all this. I think you'd have to work darned hard to fry anything, but it is a hell of a shock when the horn goes off. While you have it apart, check the rubbing strip for the horn ring. You will be removing it to get the collars off the steering column anyway. They wear through and are cheap, even by my humble standards. Whether you replace it or not, Lube it with Dilectric silicone paste.
Oh, and there is NO master spline on the steering shaft. Stamp the shaft with a punch to index the location of the steering wheel, or you'll be sorry.
I think I've covered all the mistakes I.....I mean many make--smile--and hope this smooths the job for you.
As for the switch, dirty contacts can be a cause. Also, there is a metal lever along the bottom of the switch that is operated by the signal lever and in turn operates the contacts. There is a plastic pushrod at the end of it. This can wear down and not move the contact far enough. Being cheap and poor <smile> I fixed mine with epoxy and a Dremel. Has lasted a year so far.
BTW, Disconnect the battery while you do all this. I think you'd have to work darned hard to fry anything, but it is a hell of a shock when the horn goes off. While you have it apart, check the rubbing strip for the horn ring. You will be removing it to get the collars off the steering column anyway. They wear through and are cheap, even by my humble standards. Whether you replace it or not, Lube it with Dilectric silicone paste.
Oh, and there is NO master spline on the steering shaft. Stamp the shaft with a punch to index the location of the steering wheel, or you'll be sorry.
I think I've covered all the mistakes I.....I mean many make--smile--and hope this smooths the job for you.
