Long Term Maintenance
02-23-2021, 06:14 PM
#16
Team Owner
i did a complete article on pelican with pics and detailed explanation. also on recommendations and options in approach. PM me and i will look for the link for you ..
02-23-2021, 06:16 PM
#17
Team Owner
Thanks
02-23-2021, 06:19 PM
#18
Anti-Cupholder League
Thread Starter
a lot of that list is totzl BS and " sky is falling" BS
your tires will not explode if 6 years and one day ... i have had tires over 10 years and had absolutely zero issues ... i wouldn't take them to the track but no reason to panic if they are over 6 years , just apply common sense.
by brake lines were the original Porsche ones over 30 years old and 250 K km . yes the exterior was rusted and caked but when i removed them they were perfectly fine. Of course i was glad i changed them but again , no reason to panic.
yes I agree aging Carrera fuel lines should be replaced.. . the nylon ones on the SC are practically indestructible. the ones on the pump to the tank should be changed art some point but routine inspection can tell you a lot.
I think arbitrarily assigning times to parts replacement is short sighted, an reeks of a lack of engineering prowess.
As with anything else in life, just use common sense and do routine inspections of your car.
your tires will not explode if 6 years and one day ... i have had tires over 10 years and had absolutely zero issues ... i wouldn't take them to the track but no reason to panic if they are over 6 years , just apply common sense.
by brake lines were the original Porsche ones over 30 years old and 250 K km . yes the exterior was rusted and caked but when i removed them they were perfectly fine. Of course i was glad i changed them but again , no reason to panic.
yes I agree aging Carrera fuel lines should be replaced.. . the nylon ones on the SC are practically indestructible. the ones on the pump to the tank should be changed art some point but routine inspection can tell you a lot.
I think arbitrarily assigning times to parts replacement is short sighted, an reeks of a lack of engineering prowess.
As with anything else in life, just use common sense and do routine inspections of your car.
1. The above is for brake hoses, not the metal brake lines.
2. The tire replacement is from NHTSA - as you well know - or should know - from it being explained to you previously.
Do what you want with your car but stay away from me on the highway or track.
02-23-2021, 08:43 PM
#19
Rennlist Member
As many of us have found out, the transition to longhood in 69 created some "unique to 69 issues", some "use leftover 68 parts issues", and some "new for 69-73 issues".
The seat belts in 69 can be different depending on manufacture date, I believe. My car had seatbelts made in 68, and only had an anchor high on the B pillar, not down low.
In short, I recommend working with Lucas Valdes at peparts.com to get the right retractable ones to fit the car. Since you need to anchor the retractable part at a new point (on my car), the install was a bit involved because you have to find the hidden rear anchor points that go through to the wheel well. Worth it though.
Targas are different than coupes too.
02-24-2021, 05:29 AM
#20
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Very detailed list, lots of items that are nice to know if working with the car, but I wouldn’t take some things as must do.
I would add some things at least for 3.2:
- if not done, change the plastic steering wheel bushing to steel from a 928 spares.
- if you remove the drive shafts, don’t roll the car on wheels if you don’t press wheel bearings together with a bolt.
- the engine fuel hoses are quite expensive for a 3.2, but they can and should be repaired/replaced
- if you can afford to keep a 911, you should be able to replace your tyres after 6 years despite mileage.
Do not use the tubeless patches! Humidity can creep in the tyre and rust belts.
It’s a good idea to at least check some of the items, but of course you need to know what to look for. Read the DIY manuals and for example Dempseys project books. Educate yourself, you might find out that it’s very relaxing to work with your 911 at a slow pace. Not to mention the feeling when you know that you have checked things and are leaving somewhere. In my ‘85 3.2 is only window lifters and steering rack still not opened and checked. Had the car since 1995.
I would add some things at least for 3.2:
- if not done, change the plastic steering wheel bushing to steel from a 928 spares.
- if you remove the drive shafts, don’t roll the car on wheels if you don’t press wheel bearings together with a bolt.
- the engine fuel hoses are quite expensive for a 3.2, but they can and should be repaired/replaced
- if you can afford to keep a 911, you should be able to replace your tyres after 6 years despite mileage.
Do not use the tubeless patches! Humidity can creep in the tyre and rust belts.
It’s a good idea to at least check some of the items, but of course you need to know what to look for. Read the DIY manuals and for example Dempseys project books. Educate yourself, you might find out that it’s very relaxing to work with your 911 at a slow pace. Not to mention the feeling when you know that you have checked things and are leaving somewhere. In my ‘85 3.2 is only window lifters and steering rack still not opened and checked. Had the car since 1995.
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Todd Nugent (02-24-2021)
03-22-2021, 10:32 PM
#21
Trucker
Rennlist Member
Rennlist Member
OP,
“Master cylinder may need replacement - but no one knows how long they last”. —> Is there a way to test for this? I am in the process of knocking out and restoring the “pedal assembly”. This would be the time to go through it. I have been restoring this car for 13yrs and I am in the assembly mode now.
“Master cylinder may need replacement - but no one knows how long they last”. —> Is there a way to test for this? I am in the process of knocking out and restoring the “pedal assembly”. This would be the time to go through it. I have been restoring this car for 13yrs and I am in the assembly mode now.
03-23-2021, 04:09 AM
#22
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The enemy of brake system is the negligence of regular brake fluid change. The fluid absorb
humidity from air and this cause corrosion inside system.
Master cylinder is "easy", you can look at the cylinder and see if there is corrosion or other faults.
Minor things can be honed away. Change the rubbers.
Consider carefully if you plan to go to Silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It's very difficult to get air out
from the fluid so brake pedal can remain a bit spongy.
humidity from air and this cause corrosion inside system.
Master cylinder is "easy", you can look at the cylinder and see if there is corrosion or other faults.
Minor things can be honed away. Change the rubbers.
Consider carefully if you plan to go to Silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It's very difficult to get air out
from the fluid so brake pedal can remain a bit spongy.
03-24-2021, 03:33 PM
#23
Lost *******phile
The enemy of brake system is the negligence of regular brake fluid change. The fluid absorb
humidity from air and this cause corrosion inside system.
Master cylinder is "easy", you can look at the cylinder and see if there is corrosion or other faults.
Minor things can be honed away. Change the rubbers.
Consider carefully if you plan to go to Silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It's very difficult to get air out
from the fluid so brake pedal can remain a bit spongy.
humidity from air and this cause corrosion inside system.
Master cylinder is "easy", you can look at the cylinder and see if there is corrosion or other faults.
Minor things can be honed away. Change the rubbers.
Consider carefully if you plan to go to Silicone DOT 5 brake fluid. It's very difficult to get air out
from the fluid so brake pedal can remain a bit spongy.
