Replacing my 3.2 lower valve covers this weekend. I am trying to get rid of some annoying small oil drips that appear to be from there. Looks like they have not been replaced in a few years. Not sure if I am going to do the upper valve cover gaskets -- thoughts?

Any tips appreciated. Thx

 

1. Most important consideration: Do your valves need to be adjusted? Valve cover gaskets and hardware are normally replaced during a valve adjustment... Normal service adjustment interval is every 15,000 miles.
2. Your 3.2 should have the ribbed lower valve covers which are much less prone to warpage, but you may want to check for flatness by laying the cover on a known flat surface (e.g. thick glass panel). If warped you can carefully dress the mating surface by sliding it against an abrasive sheet (P320 perhaps) ON THE FLAT SURFACE.
3. If you don't already have gaskets, your choices include OE or the replaceable silicone type. I like OE, but lots of people seem to have good results with the silicone type.
4. The FSM states that the hardware (nylock nuts and aluminum washers) must be replaced each time. Actually if you go to a Porsche dealership you can get a "valve adjustment kit" which is all four gaskets and new hardware, all in one kit. This is what I like to do.
5. As per normal, clean the mating surfaces carefully.
6. Tighten the nuts sequentially, working from the center and alternating left and right and top and bottom. Tightening torque is low (8 Nm or 6 ft-lb) so you will need an appropriate torque wrench. I like to finger tighten everything and then go in two stages, 4 Nm and then 8 Nm. It will take very little rotation so go slow and smooth.

One other comment, another point of possible leakage that may be observed in the same location are the oil return tube seals... just something to consider...

 

Thanks. I have the OEM valve cover kit, including all the crush washers and nyloc nuts. I was not inclined to check the valve clearance, but I am going to have to wait for a couple head studs because 2 of them were fused to the nut. So I have plenty of time to consider torque values and check the valve clearances.


Reading quite a few forums, the 6 ft lbs vs 18 ft lbs torque seems to be a debate. see: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...er-nutsrs.html

 

actually, found at least one cover is not flat -- the interior channels are proud of the edges. I have the 930 covers. Going to have to fix that.

 

8 Nm is the value quoted in the Porsche 84 - 89 specifications handbook (which is an official factory document, snip below). It has worked well for me, but I started with very carefully dressed and flattened valve covers when I rebuilt my motor back in 2013. So far, my engine has remained perfectly dry everywhere, without any signs of seepage (and I keep it very clean underneath), so, I like 8 Nm. However, other situations, perhaps where the faces are in slightly different condition may do better with the higher torque.

 

Thanks all for the advice. I flattened my valve covers (one was center high), and with the new gaskets, the seal looks really good after working up to 8 Nm of torque, so stopping there. We'll see how it goes. I am hopeful.

 

You mention the oil return tubes being a source of leaks. Those are pretty evident. What about the fitttings for the rigid oil cross over (I don't know the correct name) or the rubber hose/fittings from the oil tank to the block? Have you needed to change those or do they usually just need a little snugging up?

 

Often when there is oil on the rigid oil piping it is because it dripped from above. I don't think the hose usually leaks. If it does, I would be worried about cracks in an old rubber hose.

That hose is pretty critical. If it lets loose while driving you could lose the engine pretty quickly, if you don't lose the car first with all the oil dumped near the right rear.

Mark