1983 911SC 3.0 Cabrio - About to pull the trigger, need some guidance
#1
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Hey all,
First post here and hopefully joining the ownership community soon. I'm considering purchasing a 1983 911SC Cabrio 3.0 in Kiln Metallic Red and would love some guidance on the purchase. apologies for the long post and let me know if this isn't the right forum for this type of discussion.
Some details about the car:
- Current owner purchased it as a "favor" to a neighbor. The neighbor's father died leaving behind the 911 and it was just sitting in the garage. Current owner didn't find it an enjoyable daily and needs to let it go. Originally listed at $58.5k, now listed at $38.5k and is willing to let it go for $33k.
- ~57k actual miles, speedo shows less because it was upgraded from 85 mph to the 150 mph, documentation is available to track actual miles
- Engine started right up from cold after having sat for ~6 weeks, sounded good with no knocking or any other concerning sounds. There is a minor oil leak but I understand that is to be expected.
- Car is on consignment so I couldn't test drive my self but went along for the ride. Engine sounded great, suspension and steering felt tight, shifting was smooth.
- No evidence of any major recent repairs, meaning cylinder head studs are original, no recent valve adjustments, or timing chain work. Most service records are from early to mid 2000s
- Paint is in good condition, a few paint chips and some rash on the fenders behind the rear tires. It's believed to have had one respray in factory color and looks to have been a quality job.
- Interior is all original with a rip in driver seat but generally good shape, soft top may have been replaced but is in good shape as well and is fully functional. AC works but isn't super cold, to be expected.
- Is $33k a reasonable price? Any idea why the owner would list it for so much and then drop by more than $20k? Is it possible they know the head studs are broken?
- I expected I will have to budget for head stud replacement and valve adjustment at a minimum. Any other big ticket items to consider? What are the symptoms and what kind of budget should I set for this? How difficult is the work to DIY?
Any insight would be hugely appreciated!
#2
Burning Brakes
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Might be a great car + price.
'83 was the first year they brought back the cab, so that's cool. But then in '84 it switched to the Carrera (vs. the SC) with the significant engine upgrade (3.2 vs. 3.0 and more importantly DME vs. CIS).
I don't see too many '83 cabs for sale, so I don't know, but I could imagine that many potential buyers figure they'll just get the '84+ version, so there would be less demand (and price) for the '83. ???
My '85 is around 134+k miles, with no engine work done or needed other than: valve adjustments, oil-return tubes replaced with the split ones, and replacement of the oil pressure sender. So basically nothing needed so far.
It seems that many buyers budget in engine work, assuming it is needed, and I always have doubts. Good to be ready for it if needed of course, but I wonder what the actual need usually ends up being. A valve adjustment would allow you sufficient access to inspect. Not sure how it could be accurately diagnosed without removing the valve cover. That may help you in figuring out what you think the seller knows.
Good luck.
'83 was the first year they brought back the cab, so that's cool. But then in '84 it switched to the Carrera (vs. the SC) with the significant engine upgrade (3.2 vs. 3.0 and more importantly DME vs. CIS).
I don't see too many '83 cabs for sale, so I don't know, but I could imagine that many potential buyers figure they'll just get the '84+ version, so there would be less demand (and price) for the '83. ???
My '85 is around 134+k miles, with no engine work done or needed other than: valve adjustments, oil-return tubes replaced with the split ones, and replacement of the oil pressure sender. So basically nothing needed so far.
It seems that many buyers budget in engine work, assuming it is needed, and I always have doubts. Good to be ready for it if needed of course, but I wonder what the actual need usually ends up being. A valve adjustment would allow you sufficient access to inspect. Not sure how it could be accurately diagnosed without removing the valve cover. That may help you in figuring out what you think the seller knows.
Good luck.