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Old 04-15-2020, 01:44 AM
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Cobraper
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Default 911 SC - 78

Hi,

I am new to the vintage 911 scene. I am considering getting a 78 SC coupè. Obviously there is a lot to consider, such as rust, matching numbers etc. I want my car as close to original as possible, so I dont want to make any changes that cannot be reversed.

I have read something that they should have been upgraded with oil-fed/hydraulic chain tensioners. Is this a conplicated operation, and would it make the car «less» orginal?

If there is any other «typicals» I would need to consider, please list.

Thank you for your answers.
Old 04-15-2020, 01:43 PM
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Locker537
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Start here - https://www.pca.org/news/2017-07-22/...led-golden-era

Do you have a specific car you are looking at? It's easier to provide direct feedback if we are examining a specific car.

In general, reliability and drivability is favored over originality. Stuff like improved chain tensioners, CIS pop-off valve, etc are considered the norm and don't detract from originality.

Reading Wayne's 101 projects book is very helpful as well - https://www.pelicanparts.com/911/911tech_articles.htm

It all depends on what your plans are for the car. Do you want a concours level show car? A track car? Do you plan to rack up miles on the street?
Old 04-15-2020, 02:19 PM
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buy the best you can afford. These thing eat money to get them back to reliable.
Old 04-16-2020, 11:31 AM
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Thank you for your answers, appreciate it.

The car I am looking at is a 1978 US 911SC, 80k miles. The seats is original.

car was repainted in 2010 (Blutorange) according to seller there is no rust, the gears (1st through 3rd) is smooth and there is no excess/blue exhaust.





Old 04-16-2020, 12:48 PM
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The car looks nice from those few pictures. I see sport seats, H4 headlights (not original), Amber taillights (not original), and what appears to be 16 inch Fuchs (not original). All of those not original parts are preferred upgrades in my opinion and not a problem. Bonus if the car comes with the originals though.

Why was the car painted? Your original post says you want a car as close to original as possible.

Documentation and history are huge in buying these cars. Personally, I like cars that come with tons of records. It takes the guess work out of what has been done and what has not. Nothing about these cars is inexpensive.

Gearbox - Has the clutch been replaced? Has the gearbox been rebuilt? Does it have any of the common upgrades (bushing, Wevo setup, etc)?

Engine - Has the engine been out of the car? Has the top end been rebuilt? Has the bottom end been touched? If yes, to what spec?

Chassis - What's been done? Every suspension component can be touched and tweaked to make these cars perform even better. That car in question looks lowered. If you intend to track or autocross the car, every suspension improvement already done is money saved. You will spend quite a bit on suspension if you choose to modify. It's a "nickel and dime" type expenditure compared to gearbox or engine work.

Body - Here's where cost goes out the window. If rust repair or a quality repaint are in your future, you are going to spend a lot of money.

A pre-purchase inspection is really worth it on these cars. They usually cost a few hundred dollars (a little more if you request a proper compression and leakdown test) and are pretty comprehensive. I would say most sellers don't have a problem with you requesting and paying for this, but chances are they are either going to want you to use a mechanic / shop they are comfortable with and local to. Personally, I am good with that compromise. Do you research on the shop, give them a call, ahead of time.

I purchased a 1979 911SC last year. European non-sunroof coupe. I absolutely love it.
Old 04-16-2020, 01:51 PM
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my 2c

The SC is an EXCELLENT entry point for those who want to get into the market. they dont have ridiculous cost of the long hood. the dont have some of the possible pit falls of the middie, they are cheaper than a carrera.

The SC came Fully Galvanized so rust is usually not an issue and easy to check , it has the aluminum engine case so you avoid the issue of pulled studs. which is a VERY expensive repair ( 74-77 ) ( but most should have been taken care of ) it has the WUR with the cold start valve toso no idle lever in the cabin.

Not to say the SCs dont have their issues. the only main one is to check for BROKEN head studs. this can be done in a PPI. the lower ones originally came with dilivar studs which can rust and break over the life of the car requiring engine out work.
yes it has CIS , and can be finicky but once you learn to set them up or have it done they are solid and mine has given me zero issues.
as far s original , there is Original to be a show car , and there is original to the point of shaking your head ..
some upgrades are solid well worth it and really should be done.
the lights as mentioned should be upgraded if driving it regularly or even osccasionally at night. the H4s are a massive upgrade over what the car originally came with and no one would think twice.

The hydraulic fed chain tensioners are something most buyers look for as they feel it is a reliability improvement. There are camps who think they are no more reliable but no one will ever criticize you for doing it as it is generally deemed a solid upgrade. upgrading to 16 inch fuchs with varying rim Widths no one would question either as these cars often came with 15s.

of course no one wants an Am radio so another upgrade you could do and keep the old radio in the box.
exhaust is another bolt on tasteful upgrade ( SSI ) which would be deemed desirable. and can be replaced with " relative" ease by the home mechanic.

I have a 78 Targa and like the poster above i absolutely love it. Reliable, and fun.
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Old 04-16-2020, 02:36 PM
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thank you all for the detailed feedback.

I am having a look at the car tomorrow, and I will seek answers to all the potential issues you have pointed out.

there is some of the acronyms that i do not understand, however i understand that engine, chassis and gearbox is essential

the seller (vintage car dealership) tells me it has all the documentation, a whole map tracking everything that has been done. The upgrades pointed out i am fine with.

I am primarily going to use it during spring/summer sunny days. Live in Norway so the season is short.

for the suspension i am not sure if it has been lowered.

the wevo set-up, i need to ubderstand more, if thst is not done, is that something that you recomend? How about the cost, same goes for the exhaust.

Thanks!

Old 04-16-2020, 02:56 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobraper
thank you all for the detailed feedback.

I am having a look at the car tomorrow, and I will seek answers to all the potential issues you have pointed out.

there is some of the acronyms that i do not understand, however i understand that engine, chassis and gearbox is essential

the seller (vintage car dealership) tells me it has all the documentation, a whole map tracking everything that has been done. The upgrades pointed out i am fine with.

I am primarily going to use it during spring/summer sunny days. Live in Norway so the season is short.

for the suspension i am not sure if it has been lowered.

the wevo set-up, i need to ubderstand more, if thst is not done, is that something that you recomend? How about the cost, same goes for the exhaust.

Thanks!
When you go see the car, ask copious questions and take copious pictures if possible. Nothing wrong with buying from a dealer but remember they are there to make money. :-)

Scrutinize the records they have. You want to understand if the car has been maintained properly over the years, if the gearbox and engine have any major maintenance done or coming up, and why this particular car was painted. Parts of my car were repainted in the 90s to cover up rock chips. I have receipts for $250 to repaint the rear quarter panels!

Ask the seller prior, but knocking on the body panels is a good way to check for lots of bondo filler. Stick your head into the rear wheel wells and look forward into the "kidney" area for rust. Look under the engine and transmission for leaks. Take pictures.

Good luck! Happy to help.
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Old 04-16-2020, 03:32 PM
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yes PPI and Wevo are good upgrades , but nothing to worry about for today ... just make sure the car is as represented.
I kinda thought you were not from the US . The Amber corners are fine . They are only Mandatory on US equipped cars.
Good Luck ..

BTW my car was painted in the 90s the same colour, I wouldn't sweat it too much unless there is a ton of Bondo . There cars are over 40 now. My ex wife had had a ton more work than my car by the time she was 40.

Last edited by theiceman; 04-16-2020 at 06:28 PM.
Old 04-16-2020, 03:45 PM
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Apologies, I didn't answer the question about shifter and exhaust upgrades. Those are bonuses if already done in my opinion, but would absolutely not stop me from buying a car either way.

The stainless heat exchanges are a popular exhaust upgrade on the SC. Good for a little power, better sound.

The Wevo shifter parts can improve the shifting of the 915 transmission and are also popular.

You don't need either.
Old 04-18-2020, 04:14 AM
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Thank you Guys! I am now the lucky owner of this car .. it was as good as described, obviously som cosmetics, but in general it was really good. Engiene was running perfect, gears were smooth. Clutch has been replaced.
I will have to upgrade the exhaust . Blutorange is the original colour of the car and it looks good!
Old 04-18-2020, 12:07 PM
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Originally Posted by Cobraper
Thank you Guys! I am now the lucky owner of this car .. it was as good as described, obviously som cosmetics, but in general it was really good. Engiene was running perfect, gears were smooth. Clutch has been replaced.
I will have to upgrade the exhaust . Blutorange is the original colour of the car and it looks good!
Congratulations!

Now we need more pictures!
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Old 04-18-2020, 12:14 PM
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Congrats! SC's are a great generation of the 911
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Old 04-18-2020, 03:15 PM
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Thanks

i will get more pictures as soon as i pick it up, here are some I took when I had a look at it.. my 991.2 and my birthyear 911 SC👏🏻🙏🏻




Old 04-19-2020, 10:15 PM
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Ah, you have a Euro model....nice. I purchased an '83 SC (now with a Euro 83 motor) years ago and it was a great decision....I drove it and worked on it until I got it where I wanted.
I'd look at the rubber....suspension specifically, brake lines, and address each 'system' in an orderly fashion .... 42 year old rubber is worn out/hard as a rock if not replaced....torsion bars sit in rubber bushings up front...sway bar mounts...etc...
If you can do this yourself...most have...it is not expensive and you then know what has been done and done right.
Pretty color btw.


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