help me identify the cylinder studs
03-06-2004, 02:52 PM
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help me identify the cylinder studs
Hello
I am rebuilding my 3.3L 930 turbo 1978. Can someone tell me what studs i have, since the uper and lower rows seem to be different. The lower ones are brass colored and the upper ones are matte back. all studs are non magnetic. I know the engine has been opened before, possibly for partial stud change, but i cannot be sure. Does anyone know ablot how to identify RaceWare studs and if they are magnetic or not?
Thanks for your help
Peter
I am rebuilding my 3.3L 930 turbo 1978. Can someone tell me what studs i have, since the uper and lower rows seem to be different. The lower ones are brass colored and the upper ones are matte back. all studs are non magnetic. I know the engine has been opened before, possibly for partial stud change, but i cannot be sure. Does anyone know ablot how to identify RaceWare studs and if they are magnetic or not?
Thanks for your help
Peter
03-06-2004, 05:18 PM
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Hi Peter,
Before Raceware and ARP studs there was Dilvar. It was common to replace the exhaust side studs with Dilvar as they were thought to have a similar expansion rate to the aluminum cylinders and heads when compared to the steel OEM studs. As the exhaust side when through more extreme heat cycles, it was typically that side that pulled threads. Later, I was discovered the Dilvar studs were little if any better than the OE studs.
Looks to me like you've got Divlar on the bottom. A magnet will not stick to them, so that is the easiest way to check. Also look for a repaired hole.
whether this means the engine has been apart or not is debateable. Some changed studs before there was a problem, some change all bottom ones when one pulled. It can be done in the car and doesn't require full disassembly. Any surfaces sealed with silicone is a red flag to the engine being apart.
Hope this helps.
Before Raceware and ARP studs there was Dilvar. It was common to replace the exhaust side studs with Dilvar as they were thought to have a similar expansion rate to the aluminum cylinders and heads when compared to the steel OEM studs. As the exhaust side when through more extreme heat cycles, it was typically that side that pulled threads. Later, I was discovered the Dilvar studs were little if any better than the OE studs.
Looks to me like you've got Divlar on the bottom. A magnet will not stick to them, so that is the easiest way to check. Also look for a repaired hole.
whether this means the engine has been apart or not is debateable. Some changed studs before there was a problem, some change all bottom ones when one pulled. It can be done in the car and doesn't require full disassembly. Any surfaces sealed with silicone is a red flag to the engine being apart.
Hope this helps.
