Project 80 911 sc quick Q? On engine removal
#16
oh i assumed you had the omega spring off already. i dont think much holds that on . i just dont remember how i did it . i left it dangling on the transmission i think . i dont use penetrant on exhaust bolts as i want them to snap , just my preference . dont waste your time with the air hammer. just crack off those crossover bolts and you are on your way.
#17
oh i assumed you had the omega spring off already. i dont think much holds that on . i just dont remember how i did it . i left it dangling on the transmission i think . i dont use penetrant on exhaust bolts as i want them to snap , just my preference . dont waste your time with the air hammer. just crack off those crossover bolts and you are on your way.
Smart idea.. I’ll just snap those bolts for sure,
thanks again.
#19
yes! I got it off just yesterday.. it took me 3 days wrestling with the cross pipe.
Used- heat, dremell, chisel, hammer, pry bar, penetrating oil and lots of sweat and swearing..lol! Then the pipes flanges came off though it’s still under the engine, I had to move it around to clear the omega spring while pulling the trans.
thanks again.
now I’m going to tackle the head studs. First timer.
I ordered Porsche steel studs to replace the lower delivars. Noticed a lot of little things that needs replacing like the washers for the clutch fork and shaft but I’m focusing on the engine first.
Finally! Time for brew🍺
Used- heat, dremell, chisel, hammer, pry bar, penetrating oil and lots of sweat and swearing..lol! Then the pipes flanges came off though it’s still under the engine, I had to move it around to clear the omega spring while pulling the trans.
thanks again.
now I’m going to tackle the head studs. First timer.
I ordered Porsche steel studs to replace the lower delivars. Noticed a lot of little things that needs replacing like the washers for the clutch fork and shaft but I’m focusing on the engine first.
Finally! Time for brew🍺
#20
i can offer a couple of tips.
I got a torch with a pencil tip from lowes, it uses oxygen and gas . Very cool setup but uses a lot of oxygen.
I took the heads off with exchanges still on it and worked comfortably on my work bench .
I used a regular wrench 13mm i think and a allen key, no extensions or anything fancy . heated it with the torch, if it didn't come off i heated it more. the short wrench and allen key was by design to stop my over torquing and snapping the stud.
Obviously you need a good set of welders gloves. i had to get them cherry red.
Got all 12 out without a single break .
I got a torch with a pencil tip from lowes, it uses oxygen and gas . Very cool setup but uses a lot of oxygen.
I took the heads off with exchanges still on it and worked comfortably on my work bench .
I used a regular wrench 13mm i think and a allen key, no extensions or anything fancy . heated it with the torch, if it didn't come off i heated it more. the short wrench and allen key was by design to stop my over torquing and snapping the stud.
Obviously you need a good set of welders gloves. i had to get them cherry red.
Got all 12 out without a single break .
#21
i can offer a couple of tips.
I got a torch with a pencil tip from lowes, it uses oxygen and gas . Very cool setup but uses a lot of oxygen.
I took the heads off with exchanges still on it and worked comfortably on my work bench .
I used a regular wrench 13mm i think and a allen key, no extensions or anything fancy . heated it with the torch, if it didn't come off i heated it more. the short wrench and allen key was by design to stop my over torquing and snapping the stud.
Obviously you need a good set of welders gloves. i had to get them cherry red.
Got all 12 out without a single break .
I got a torch with a pencil tip from lowes, it uses oxygen and gas . Very cool setup but uses a lot of oxygen.
I took the heads off with exchanges still on it and worked comfortably on my work bench .
I used a regular wrench 13mm i think and a allen key, no extensions or anything fancy . heated it with the torch, if it didn't come off i heated it more. the short wrench and allen key was by design to stop my over torquing and snapping the stud.
Obviously you need a good set of welders gloves. i had to get them cherry red.
Got all 12 out without a single break .
You’re saying I can remove the heads with the heat exchanger intact? And I’m going to open up my timing chain cover to take a look on what type of cam sprocket I have..just being sure on what tools I need. Crawfoot with P202 or just P9191 that I’m hoping.
#24
Awesome! Your rebuilding? Looks exactly what I’m doing for sure.. we have the same broom and 2x4’s
👍🏼
I’ve been reading a lot on these engines.. have a few books and this forum helps a lot.
what do you use to clean the block and covers?
👍🏼
I’ve been reading a lot on these engines.. have a few books and this forum helps a lot.
what do you use to clean the block and covers?
#25
First pass with engine greaser and a stiff bristle brush .. second pass with brake kleen .. i saved the brake clean in an air tight container and use it for cleaning small parts and bolts...
I did all of the cleaning outside before i brought it in .
I actually used a pressure washer after blocking all the openings on my very first pass with engine degreaser .... it was a family affair .! .
I did all of the cleaning outside before i brought it in .
I actually used a pressure washer after blocking all the openings on my very first pass with engine degreaser .... it was a family affair .! .
#27
#29
Are you going to take off the heads? I guess I missed the jump from blown airbox and valve adjustment to engine disassembly.
If you don't plan to reuse the heat exchangers, then I would sacrifice them now. Cut them off, this lets you attack the nuts holding the flanges to the heads with a Dremel. Otherwise I would be surprised if you can get all the nuts off without breaking a stud.
Mark
If you don't plan to reuse the heat exchangers, then I would sacrifice them now. Cut them off, this lets you attack the nuts holding the flanges to the heads with a Dremel. Otherwise I would be surprised if you can get all the nuts off without breaking a stud.
Mark
#30
Are you going to take off the heads? I guess I missed the jump from blown airbox and valve adjustment to engine disassembly.
If you don't plan to reuse the heat exchangers, then I would sacrifice them now. Cut them off, this lets you attack the nuts holding the flanges to the heads with a Dremel. Otherwise I would be surprised if you can get all the nuts off without breaking a stud.
Mark
If you don't plan to reuse the heat exchangers, then I would sacrifice them now. Cut them off, this lets you attack the nuts holding the flanges to the heads with a Dremel. Otherwise I would be surprised if you can get all the nuts off without breaking a stud.
Mark
I already have new
- Bosch injectors / sleeves
- airbox with pop off valve/ spider
- bunch of seals and gaskets
- sensors
- breather hose
- will need new clutch kit
- probably exhaust in the future
Trying to get the engine part done first and hopefully it fires right up. 🙏
question..? Did my research seems like the upper steel is ok to use for the lower studs.. my Porsche dealership was hesitant on it.
cheers.