Old battery comp rust
#1
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Old battery comp rust
Question about battery comp rust.
Along my 911 search I came across a nice 86. It’s a drivers car, normal wear and some dings. Overall like a 6-7 / 10 car. A lot of good mechanical upgrades to the car. Owner was really nice, disclosed everything.
Only issue I have is one thumbnail size rust bubble along a window sill under the paint and this pic of some old rust by the battery compartment.
Owner says he oils it since he got it and it’s never spread.. I wasn’t able to hoist the car, just looking at it on ground. Are these localized if treated? The rest of the front drunk was clean.
Along my 911 search I came across a nice 86. It’s a drivers car, normal wear and some dings. Overall like a 6-7 / 10 car. A lot of good mechanical upgrades to the car. Owner was really nice, disclosed everything.
Only issue I have is one thumbnail size rust bubble along a window sill under the paint and this pic of some old rust by the battery compartment.
Owner says he oils it since he got it and it’s never spread.. I wasn’t able to hoist the car, just looking at it on ground. Are these localized if treated? The rest of the front drunk was clean.
#2
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The problem is the steel pan in front of the fuel tank is hollow. If you look underneath you'll see three drain holes. The battery acid can get in there, and rot it from within. I'm really concerned my car has this problem, as I actually have a hole in that corner where this 1986 has rust.
This thread at Pelican shows a really bad case, but it gives you an idea of what to worry about: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...placement.html
The photo you provided doesn't look too bad though. You need to get the car on a lift and give it a good inspection.
Mark
This thread at Pelican shows a really bad case, but it gives you an idea of what to worry about: http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsc...placement.html
The photo you provided doesn't look too bad though. You need to get the car on a lift and give it a good inspection.
Mark
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Hotshot (09-21-2019)
#4
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I notice the battery in the image has the vent tube connector.... I don't know if you are staying with and FLA (flooded lead acid) Battery but those can leak acid fairly easily. It you don't want to deal with the acid leaking in the future you should go with an AGM (absorbed glass matt Battery).... or lithium
But the AGMS and Lithium will not have the potential for acid leakage, which causes this scenario...
But the AGMS and Lithium will not have the potential for acid leakage, which causes this scenario...
Last edited by Antigravity; 09-22-2019 at 04:01 PM.
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oldskewel (09-22-2019)
#5
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Pull the battery out, grind it up and treat it the best you can with POR or something like that. Check under car!!!! At some point will likely need to be cut out and fixed. Maybe many years. Just ensure the pan and torsion bar bracket are perfect. Thats the real issue up there.
That rust bubble, get it fixed, could be more under the seal too.
That rust bubble, get it fixed, could be more under the seal too.
#6
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Pull the battery out, grind it up and treat it the best you can with POR or something like that. Check under car!!!! At some point will likely need to be cut out and fixed. Maybe many years. Just ensure the pan and torsion bar bracket are perfect. Thats the real issue up there.
That rust bubble, get it fixed, could be more under the seal too.
That rust bubble, get it fixed, could be more under the seal too.
How do do you fix a bubble like that? How does it match the older paint and does that mess everything up as far as down the road...?
#7
I am agreed with @Antigravity, and you should go with absorbed glass matt Battery. There are some portable electronics lithium batteries listed in my friend's blog which can be useful, check it https://bestportableproducts.com/top...tery-chargers/
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#8
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I would flush the entire area with baking soda and water solution to neutralize and acid. then treat best you can …. as pointed out any area that is in a cavity will be tough to treat so you just have to hope for the best
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#12
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I just picked up an '87 Cab with a rotted front suspension pan. It's at a shop now for an estimate. The pan itself is less than $300 from Pelican, and I expect the repair to come in around $1,000.
The repair itself doesn't look difficult. If I had the time, I'd be tempted to use this as an excuse to learn to weld.
The repair itself doesn't look difficult. If I had the time, I'd be tempted to use this as an excuse to learn to weld.
#13
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I just picked up an '87 Cab with a rotted front suspension pan. It's at a shop now for an estimate. The pan itself is less than $300 from Pelican, and I expect the repair to come in around $1,000.
The repair itself doesn't look difficult. If I had the time, I'd be tempted to use this as an excuse to learn to weld.
The repair itself doesn't look difficult. If I had the time, I'd be tempted to use this as an excuse to learn to weld.
#15
I just picked up an '87 Cab with a rotted front suspension pan. It's at a shop now for an estimate. The pan itself is less than $300 from Pelican, and I expect the repair to come in around $1,000.
The repair itself doesn't look difficult. If I had the time, I'd be tempted to use this as an excuse to learn to weld.
The repair itself doesn't look difficult. If I had the time, I'd be tempted to use this as an excuse to learn to weld.
Has the repair been done? If only $1000 to replace the pan and align the front suspension, then it ain't too bad.
I'm asking as I have a similar but issue. Don't think the rust got to where the front suspension mounts are as all 3 spots are around the 3 drain holes and wonder if just grinding out the 3 circles of rust and maybe to the back side of the crossmember and then weld new sheet metal and THEN a right angle piece of steel on top of the crossmember would do the trick. Anyone care to chime in?