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my 88 carrera has a little rust in the rocker panels. I obtained some cuts from parts haven to replace those. They are not perfect and have some rust as well but only surface.
I'm taking my car to the body shop next week. they generally do good jobs on newer cars but don't do restoration.
i'm sure they'll be able to fit everything properly but I'm wondering if there is some sort of treatment to be applied to the inside part of the rocker panel once it is cut open to clean the surface rust and slow down rusting. Something that can be obtained from local stores in LA / CA would be great.
I'm also wondering what needs to be done about the affixed labels. They will most likely burn due to welding. Any suggestions?
That is pretty bad for an ‘88. Winter driven?
This job should be done by a Porsche guy, not a normal body shop. The innards of the rockers contain the heat conduits which may/may not be rusted as well. You will have to remove the oil lines, another potentially PITA job (search this forum) so its now also an oil change. Also, I think that the A/c lines will have to be dropped off an ‘88.
It seems to me that if you have so much rust in those places on a “newer” galvanized body, you should also carefully look at the traditional rust areas, like the bottom corners of both the front and rear windshields, rear parcel shelf, front suspension area, etc. The nature of the “project” may change.
You should also post on the Pelican Parts Bodywork Forum for the latest in inside rust treatment sprays.
i’m sure others will weigh in.
Good luck.
I say part the car out. This rust never stops going, once fixed, a year or so later it shows up in relatively the same place. Evaluate the cost of repairs repeated every couple of years and then what is the resale value.
Take the car to a Porsche restoration expert for a 2nd opinion and options.
It can be fixed. Checkout restoration design for weldable metal parts.
Do you know where the car lived? Miles?
thats quite a bit of rust for an 88
i would definitely give it a very thorough look over in every rust spot per the others above before doing anything.
The labels are easy. Carbone can make them. They’re the least of your worries.
Any rust that doesn’t need to be cut out needs to ground down. Use por rust treatment and a primer. Look on early s registry and pelican for hints on how to deal with treatable rust.
If the rust was surface you'd be able to use a rust converter and prime sand paint fill ect. Ospho works excellent. For you. You need to cut and weld which is no big deal they make the new sheet metal for that area. This is assuming its only that area. For an 88 to rust in that spot is very odd. If it was a 68 is understand id go through the car make sure that's the only area. Figure out what caused it examine the weather stripping and pull up the carpet. I may change the carpet and examine floor boards.
When the cut it out cut well beyond it to get the rust out completely its like cureative surgery for cancer you want clean margins meaning removal of the tumor and then some so you leave nothing behind.
Rust is similar to cancer.
Have someone knowledge able do the work
id also persobally pull out the windshield and examine under it. Thats a very big rust area for these cars its super easy to pull the glass out and put it back
It can be fixed. Checkout restoration design for weldable metal parts.
Do you know where the car lived? Miles?
thats quite a bit of rust for an 88
i would definitely give it a very thorough look over in every rust spot per the others above before doing anything.
The labels are easy. Carbone can make them. They’re the least of your worries.
Any rust that doesn’t need to be cut out needs to ground down. Use por rust treatment and a primer. Look on early s registry and pelican for hints on how to deal with treatable rust.
Por15 is good for frames. But for groubd down rust use converter
It can be fixed. Checkout restoration design for weldable metal parts.
Do you know where the car lived? Miles?
thats quite a bit of rust for an 88
i would definitely give it a very thorough look over in every rust spot per the others above before doing anything.
The labels are easy. Carbone can make them. They’re the least of your worries.
Any rust that doesn’t need to be cut out needs to ground down. Use por rust treatment and a primer. Look on early s registry and pelican for hints on how to deal with treatable rust.
this ... I go to their place ever year for a tour , they have brand new stampings of this piece . don't go to the trouble of welding in an old piece. This is not a small job.
Based on feedback from the Pelican paint/body forum, I am using PPG products. Not cheap nor easy to find. I am using their Metal Cleaner and Metal Conditioner to treat and neutralize areas (after scrubbing the heck out of them with wire brushes), then sealing with Epoxy Primer afterwards. This is for areas where there is minor rust/pitting. Areas with a lot of rust need to be cut out and replaced.
Ppg products and paint are excellent.
i get the feeling you want to kinda just patch it. Which may look ok and last alittle but it strictly cosmetic and not a repair.
The only solution is to cut and weld. Weither you do you now or 2-5 years from now is the decision you gotta make.
For an 88 to rust in that spot is very odd. If it was a 68 is understand id go through the car make sure that's the only area. Figure out what caused it examine the weather stripping and pull up the carpet. I may change the carpet and examine floor boards.
Have someone knowledge able do the work
id also persobally pull out the windshield and examine under it. Thats a very big rust area for these cars its super easy to pull the glass out and put it back
Not an uncommon spot for rust, especially for cars in a moist climate (such as England) or that have had some sort of leak.
Originally Posted by Spyerx
Any rust that doesn’t need to be cut out needs to ground down. Use por rust treatment and a primer. Look on early s registry and pelican for hints on how to deal with treatable rust.
"Treatable rust" is a bit of a misnomer. The rust is either there or it isn't. If it's there, then its going to come back at some point. A variety of products can be used to slow its return, but not stop it altogether. If you grind it down to clean metal and properly prep it, you have a chance of stopping it.
People have somehow been convinced that POR is some sort of magical structural and permanent fix for rusty metal. It may be a heavy-duty paint but does not fix anything other than thinly applied or bad paint. If you actually "pour it over rust" and expect the rust to stop, then you'll be in for a surprise when it comes back. Since the paint is heavy duty, it may take some time for the rust (which is still there) to actually become visible again.
As previously noted, you would be well advised to pull out all the glass and interior and further assess the shell. The ideal solution is always to strip the shell clean, have it totally cleaned and re-galvanized; but that obviously isn't always possible.
well it is hard for me to tell what happened with the car during the past 30 years because in only had it for 2-3 years and I'm not really a forensic.
I'm just looking into the problems that are happening now and try to make it live a little longer to drive it happily without the risk of letting it decay
but in no way i am interested in such restoration jobs where you pour into a car double the money that it is worth and they you are too scared to pull the car out for fear something might damage it :-)
so I'll try to use the advise you gave me and I'll post some results soon.
Not an uncommon spot for rust, especially for cars in a moist climate (such as England) or that have had some sort of leak.
"Treatable rust" is a bit of a misnomer. The rust is either there or it isn't. If it's there, then its going to come back at some point. A variety of products can be used to slow its return, but not stop it altogether. If you grind it down to clean metal and properly prep it, you have a chance of stopping it.
People have somehow been convinced that POR is some sort of magical structural and permanent fix for rusty metal. It may be a heavy-duty paint but does not fix anything other than thinly applied or bad paint. If you actually "pour it over rust" and expect the rust to stop, then you'll be in for a surprise when it comes back. Since the paint is heavy duty, it may take some time for the rust (which is still there) to actually become visible again.
As previously noted, you would be well advised to pull out all the glass and interior and further assess the shell. The ideal solution is always to strip the shell clean, have it totally cleaned and re-galvanized; but that obviously isn't always possible.
Well stated. This is an awesome post.
I've used por15 many times honestly as 1 of 2 things undercoating and inside on floor boards.
But I used ospho first to covert the surface rust.
with por15 you are supposed to be able to paint over rust hence the name , no way in he'll is do that. If its surface id covert it then use the por15 as a coating.
Since you really wanna do this at home. Id figure out what caused it first.
Then grind it down to bare metal rust converter thena mesh wire patch and body filler prime sand and paint.
also I'd really take care of the rust underneath that pannel same sand convert and 3m undercoating
Well stated. This is an awesome post.
I've used por15 many times honestly as 1 of 2 things undercoating and inside on floor boards.
But I used ospho first to covert the surface rust.
with por15 you are supposed to be able to paint over rust hence the name , no way in he'll is do that. If its surface id covert it then use the por15 as a coating.
Since you really wanna do this at home. Id figure out what caused it first.
Then grind it down to bare metal rust converter thena mesh wire patch and body filler prime sand and paint.
also I'd really take care of the rust underneath that pannel same sand convert and 3m undercoating
mesh wire patch = fiber glass?
anyways, as I said, I purchased some cuts from a crashed car that cover my rusted area so I will patch with metal not filler and fiber glass