ignition distributor advance
01-11-2002, 06:42 PM
#1
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Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: southeastern michigan
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ignition distributor advance
I have a 1979 911SC that needs a rebuild on the distributor, as the counterweights appear frozen at full advanced position.
First question is there any required periodic maintenance required to avoid this from happening again....this is the second time in 5 years that this has occurred?
Second, is there any advantage in performance by recurving the advance to European specifications (if there is such a thing)or in other ways changing the advance curve for more aggressive characterisitics?
My car has some head work done, such as porting and SSI heat exchangers, with a Bursch muffler. I am looking for a performance increase and do not need to worry about an emissions test anymore.
First question is there any required periodic maintenance required to avoid this from happening again....this is the second time in 5 years that this has occurred?
Second, is there any advantage in performance by recurving the advance to European specifications (if there is such a thing)or in other ways changing the advance curve for more aggressive characterisitics?
My car has some head work done, such as porting and SSI heat exchangers, with a Bursch muffler. I am looking for a performance increase and do not need to worry about an emissions test anymore.
01-11-2002, 10:37 PM
#2
RL Technical Advisor
Hi Fred:
This is a common occurrance on these older cars and can be a real PITA.
I use a professional-grade penetrant to free these up when this happens. This is one area where consumer stuff like WD-40, Liquid Wrench and similar products offered to the public are largely placebos, and are not effective at this mission at all. Its quite disappointing to see that shops and people in the Automotive trades are provided with a good range of chemicals that really work! These are not made available to the public.
As your situation is caused by moisture and age, you should remove the weights and springs and clean all the rust and corrosion under those things and on the base plate. A light coat of a good machine tool oil like Starrett's will help prevent this from recurring and you should drip a little 10w-30 on the felt pad in the center of the shaft.
Good penetrating corrosion busters are:
Zep Rust Penetrant
Wurth Rost-Off
Kroil
These are not in stores. We keep this stuff around here for our use and for our DIY'er clients as a service.
IMHO, recurving your distributor with a more aggressive curve doesn't help that much,... BTDT. I would make sure that your car truly has WOT when the throttle is fully depressed and that your timing is set properly, ie: 34-35 degrees total advance at 6000.
Hope this helps, Sir.
This is a common occurrance on these older cars and can be a real PITA.
I use a professional-grade penetrant to free these up when this happens. This is one area where consumer stuff like WD-40, Liquid Wrench and similar products offered to the public are largely placebos, and are not effective at this mission at all. Its quite disappointing to see that shops and people in the Automotive trades are provided with a good range of chemicals that really work! These are not made available to the public.
As your situation is caused by moisture and age, you should remove the weights and springs and clean all the rust and corrosion under those things and on the base plate. A light coat of a good machine tool oil like Starrett's will help prevent this from recurring and you should drip a little 10w-30 on the felt pad in the center of the shaft.
Good penetrating corrosion busters are:
Zep Rust Penetrant
Wurth Rost-Off
Kroil
These are not in stores. We keep this stuff around here for our use and for our DIY'er clients as a service.
IMHO, recurving your distributor with a more aggressive curve doesn't help that much,... BTDT. I would make sure that your car truly has WOT when the throttle is fully depressed and that your timing is set properly, ie: 34-35 degrees total advance at 6000.
Hope this helps, Sir.
