Porsche 911 shopping what to look for?
#1
Porsche 911 shopping what to look for?
New to the Porsche world but it is my dream car, just sold my Vette now I’m shopping for an air cooled 911. On Monday I’m heading out with a buddy to go and check out a 1975 Porsche 911, the owner has owned it for 30 years and had totally restored it 28 years ago, including putting in a 2.7 rebuilt engine in the car. What I’m concerned about is that he says he has only put around 150 miles on it since restoration. Car and engine look mint in pics, but if the car has barely been driven or run I was wondering what I should look for, I know that sitting these old cars is not good for the engine. If the car checks out on Monday than I’ll bring in a mechanic for a Pre-purchase inspection. Any suggestions on what to look for on Monday would be appreciated.
thanks
Eddie
thanks
Eddie
#2
a LOT depends on what they did to rebuild it and on what port it was imported into
in '75, Calif. cars had the dreaded thermal reactors on them and will likely need align boring of the cases at a machine shop that specializes in air cooled 911s with Mg cases (not cheap) + some other work
but... cars imported to the Pacific NW (like the one I used to have) never had them and the Mg cases last a lot longer
'75 had some galv. steel (Thyssen) but not all of it, so rust damage can be a bigger issue than - say - a '77
so, look underneath and probe for rust; beware of patches over critical areas that look nice
and be absolutely certain about the top item - I'd make sure the seller has a receipt that is detailed; then take a pic of it with your phone and call that shop to see if they have records on it (some do! I found a place that had records from 30 years ago on a vehicle I own) - if uncertain re thermal reactors/fixes for same, then reduce the value of the car by a risk premium (like an insurer would do for life ins. etc.) - the amt. would be the cost to get it all done - factor that along with other issues or suspects into your offer; you can go up from there or buy a nice '74...
in '75, Calif. cars had the dreaded thermal reactors on them and will likely need align boring of the cases at a machine shop that specializes in air cooled 911s with Mg cases (not cheap) + some other work
but... cars imported to the Pacific NW (like the one I used to have) never had them and the Mg cases last a lot longer
'75 had some galv. steel (Thyssen) but not all of it, so rust damage can be a bigger issue than - say - a '77
so, look underneath and probe for rust; beware of patches over critical areas that look nice
and be absolutely certain about the top item - I'd make sure the seller has a receipt that is detailed; then take a pic of it with your phone and call that shop to see if they have records on it (some do! I found a place that had records from 30 years ago on a vehicle I own) - if uncertain re thermal reactors/fixes for same, then reduce the value of the car by a risk premium (like an insurer would do for life ins. etc.) - the amt. would be the cost to get it all done - factor that along with other issues or suspects into your offer; you can go up from there or buy a nice '74...
#3
My mistake car is a 74, was originally a European car that was imported to Canada 30 years ago. Car was restored has zero rust, the restoration is 30 years old along with engine refresh. I'm just concerned car has only been driven 150 miles since restoring it, that is a lot of sitting around.
#4
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That is a lot of sitting around. If rebuilt to stock, it also has CIS injection, which doesn’t do well if not used regularly.
The 1974’s also have brittle nylon fuel lines in the central tunnel that should be replaced, and a fuel pump in back that probably should be moved to the front.
Mark
The 1974’s also have brittle nylon fuel lines in the central tunnel that should be replaced, and a fuel pump in back that probably should be moved to the front.
Mark
#5
Yah I'm afraid that all seals, lines and bushings may be dried out and will cost me a lot to get it on the road. The pics of the car looks great engine looks new and clean, but you never know what's going on inside.
#6
bushings need repl. on every 911
same for rubber fuel hoses & rubber brake hoses
'74 is better than a '75 etc.
you need to see what is really going on with this car & the price...
same for rubber fuel hoses & rubber brake hoses
'74 is better than a '75 etc.
you need to see what is really going on with this car & the price...
#7
Rennlist Member
What you should look for is a flatbed trailer service to take that car to a shop and let THEM look it over. 150 miles in the last 28 years? Don't dare turn the key until the engine is prepared and lubricated, and hand-turned before any attempt is made to start it. Otherwise you can destroy it in a microsecond. Where is it located and what environment was it stored in? Body rust and internal engine corrosion due to lack of lubrication would be high on my list of concerns. Of course all belts, hoses, bushings and rubber lines should be replaced. All cars deteriorate when they sit.
I wonder why a 15 year old car needed a "total restoration" in the first place. This car has a story or two to tell.
I wonder why a 15 year old car needed a "total restoration" in the first place. This car has a story or two to tell.