New to me 1971 911T
#151
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Thread Starter
Picking car up in the am. Supposedly it’s very good. According The the shop test driver ;-)
Im. A little nervous. I changed a lot on the car. It was soft and wallowy when it got it. I suspect it’s quite direct and agile now. Seats suspension alignment and tuning.
Im. A little nervous. I changed a lot on the car. It was soft and wallowy when it got it. I suspect it’s quite direct and agile now. Seats suspension alignment and tuning.
#152
As long as it's still orange, everything will be OK!
#153
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Thread Starter
#154
GT3 player par excellence
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we need long hood reunion pic at mo.
jk 3
jh 2
cn 1
co 1
wow we can have 7 line up
jk 3
jh 2
cn 1
co 1
wow we can have 7 line up
#155
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Thread Starter
#156
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Thread Starter
Look what’s back. Will post exterior pics tomorrow.
They nailed it. Car drives awesome. Chassis and feel is transformed.
They nailed it. Car drives awesome. Chassis and feel is transformed.
Plastic handles plastic door handles will be wevo when back in stock
these seats completely change the car
turbo tie rods bump steer kit and rs steering wheel with spacer keep a nice feel and very direct
21/26 torsions, bilstein hd shocks, 18mm f/r sways, elephant rear adjustable plates, and a proper alignment have turned the car from floppy cruiser to proper balance of hot rod and comfort. Feels like a sports car now. I’ll
post the final list of what i did later. It’s long. Lol
these seats completely change the car
turbo tie rods bump steer kit and rs steering wheel with spacer keep a nice feel and very direct
21/26 torsions, bilstein hd shocks, 18mm f/r sways, elephant rear adjustable plates, and a proper alignment have turned the car from floppy cruiser to proper balance of hot rod and comfort. Feels like a sports car now. I’ll
post the final list of what i did later. It’s long. Lol
#159
Drifting
Wow - looks fantastic! Great mods and it all comes together nicely. A lot of the same stuff in my build, but mine will be disabled for a while
#160
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Thread Starter
What do you all think of these pulls? Bob at app biz gave me these to try. I think better than the plastic ones!?
i also replaced the hard cracking rubber switch pulls and the ignition surround.
I’ve a new wiper and blinker stalk end but I’m afraid to break the stalk. May have to clip it off. The rubber pulls had to be cut they were so old and cracked and hard.
i also replaced the hard cracking rubber switch pulls and the ignition surround.
I’ve a new wiper and blinker stalk end but I’m afraid to break the stalk. May have to clip it off. The rubber pulls had to be cut they were so old and cracked and hard.
#161
GT3 player par excellence
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^ which devil pushed u over the cliff and buy these old stuff....
oh, you should test my latest old toy...
you are done with this, muck with the next one...
oh, you should test my latest old toy...
you are done with this, muck with the next one...
#163
Rennlist Member
Those look great. How do they feel in your hand when closing the door?
It looks much better than those stock plastic handles.
Which wevo handle were you planning on installing?
It looks much better than those stock plastic handles.
Which wevo handle were you planning on installing?
#164
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Wevo has aluminum versions of the fiat handles. They are nice.
#165
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Ok this is service "#1" , what I go through when I get a car, drive it for a month, and "list" what it needs. Today I'm installing some weber rain hat filters + Hella horn grill driving lights.
The shop nailed the work, LOTS of little details to address, and setup and tuning. car is awesome. more pics later
INSPECT
—Full post purchase inspection - OK
—Nut/bolt all chassis/suspension - OK
—inspect fuel lines / fire hazards - smell fuel odor outside car, not in, and no drips,or leaks, after driving and parking - vent or overflow? Smells like vapor, and it dissipates shortly after driving. No odor in the car at all when driving or running. – OK, just carb smell
ENGINE
—Change oil and filter Valvoline VR1R 20w50
—Change fuel filter
—Replace sump plate gasket, clean sump Screen
—Replace timing box gaskets, seepage on bottom
—Replace fan belt
—Replace & gap spark plugs, inspect (plugs good)
—adjust valves, replace gaskets
—Oil seepage on tank at sensor, check and replace gasket
—replace oil tank level sensor gasket
—Adjust carbs / re-jet carbs - were setup in flagstaff az at 6k elevation - adjusted mains from 125 to 140 – may need further adjustment but want to drive a while first
—Check driver side carb slight dust indicating fuel seepage? - cleaned OK
—Identify seeping oil locations on engine and/or trans – little bit of seepage – not a lot – at engine
—Check hand throttle function, non-op (replacement plastic part supplied)
—check normal running temps. Seem to be 180-210, ok? Car doesn’t have secondary fender cooler – runs fine, maxes 210 in hard driving – recommend secondary cooler
—check oil pressure. Once warm 20 idle and 100+ driving, 140+ accelerating, ok? – yes oil pressure is in range once warm
—A little hard to start when warm, needs gas and seems bogged a bit then clears out, normal?
—Replace missing pipe clamps/correct clamps on various hoses in engine/frunk on vent lines
—one timing rail left side timing box backwards - fixed
—install Pertronix electronic points
--tune set timing, adjust etc.
TRANSMISSION
—Change trans oil (swepco supplied)
—check / Adjust clutch / occasional slipping in 3rd full throttle/ check adjustment - does not always slip - Adjusted clutch
—Check shifter adjustment, r-1 a little difficult, 1-2 feels binding, 2-5 ok. —No grinding, no pop outs, seems like adjustment needed - Replaced shifter bushings, adjusted shifter
—check seepage on driver side cv boot outer (installed new axles, bolts, flange washers) - Replaced
—some trans or clutch noise at idle with clutch in, TOB?? - Its OK
—Fix speedo cable: clicking noise on deceleration from back/trans area followed by speedometer stopped working, clicking noise gone - Replaced angle drive unit
—replace cv axles, they were damaged internally
—replace axle bolts and plates
—shifter throw adjustment
BODY/INTERIOR
—replace batteries w/ Interstate batteries
—Treat any corrosion found in battery boxes (none)
—Hood hard to pull - lube, check adjustment
—pass window a little tough to open / close. Check and advise - adjusted, but will need to be replaced at some point, but better
—Turn signal right (up) - very sensitive to cancel - check when replacing wheel with new wheel - OK
—scrape and clean / replace undercoating where peeling – worth - done
—touch up any needed undercoating - done
—treat and seal any found corrosion –
—install RS type steering wheel
—steering column missing a spacer, replace
—adjust steering column spacing and play
—Install sport seats (supplied)
—powder coat black new seat rails
—new seat belt hardware
—Install door moisture barriers
—install RSR type door panels + new window hardware
—install round driver mirror
—modify new steering wheel with 1” custom spacer
—installed gas pedal stop
—Repair parking brake light/switch activation
BRAKES
—Flush brakes w/ Pentosin (supplied, install bleeder screw covers, supplied)
—Lightly pulsing brakes on light application – turned rotors lightly
—Install porterfield R4S brake pads, bed pads (pads supplied)
SUSPENSION
—inspect bearings and play on front axles, repack and adjust play
—inspect bushings, play in bushings / ball joints
—install turbo tie rods, set toe
—install front sway bar kit 18mm
—weld rear mounts to chassis
—weld ball mounts to swing arms
—install rear sway bar kit 18mm
--spacer on bottom of mounts to space bar back a few mm
—source and install 21/26 torsion bars
—Install adjustable rear spring plates
—Paint rear spring plates
—Install steering rack spacers
—Setup alignment “Proper”, height, and rake, corner balance
The shop nailed the work, LOTS of little details to address, and setup and tuning. car is awesome. more pics later
INSPECT
—Full post purchase inspection - OK
—Nut/bolt all chassis/suspension - OK
—inspect fuel lines / fire hazards - smell fuel odor outside car, not in, and no drips,or leaks, after driving and parking - vent or overflow? Smells like vapor, and it dissipates shortly after driving. No odor in the car at all when driving or running. – OK, just carb smell
ENGINE
—Change oil and filter Valvoline VR1R 20w50
—Change fuel filter
—Replace sump plate gasket, clean sump Screen
—Replace timing box gaskets, seepage on bottom
—Replace fan belt
—Replace & gap spark plugs, inspect (plugs good)
—adjust valves, replace gaskets
—Oil seepage on tank at sensor, check and replace gasket
—replace oil tank level sensor gasket
—Adjust carbs / re-jet carbs - were setup in flagstaff az at 6k elevation - adjusted mains from 125 to 140 – may need further adjustment but want to drive a while first
—Check driver side carb slight dust indicating fuel seepage? - cleaned OK
—Identify seeping oil locations on engine and/or trans – little bit of seepage – not a lot – at engine
—Check hand throttle function, non-op (replacement plastic part supplied)
—check normal running temps. Seem to be 180-210, ok? Car doesn’t have secondary fender cooler – runs fine, maxes 210 in hard driving – recommend secondary cooler
—check oil pressure. Once warm 20 idle and 100+ driving, 140+ accelerating, ok? – yes oil pressure is in range once warm
—A little hard to start when warm, needs gas and seems bogged a bit then clears out, normal?
—Replace missing pipe clamps/correct clamps on various hoses in engine/frunk on vent lines
—one timing rail left side timing box backwards - fixed
—install Pertronix electronic points
--tune set timing, adjust etc.
TRANSMISSION
—Change trans oil (swepco supplied)
—check / Adjust clutch / occasional slipping in 3rd full throttle/ check adjustment - does not always slip - Adjusted clutch
—Check shifter adjustment, r-1 a little difficult, 1-2 feels binding, 2-5 ok. —No grinding, no pop outs, seems like adjustment needed - Replaced shifter bushings, adjusted shifter
—check seepage on driver side cv boot outer (installed new axles, bolts, flange washers) - Replaced
—some trans or clutch noise at idle with clutch in, TOB?? - Its OK
—Fix speedo cable: clicking noise on deceleration from back/trans area followed by speedometer stopped working, clicking noise gone - Replaced angle drive unit
—replace cv axles, they were damaged internally
—replace axle bolts and plates
—shifter throw adjustment
BODY/INTERIOR
—replace batteries w/ Interstate batteries
—Treat any corrosion found in battery boxes (none)
—Hood hard to pull - lube, check adjustment
—pass window a little tough to open / close. Check and advise - adjusted, but will need to be replaced at some point, but better
—Turn signal right (up) - very sensitive to cancel - check when replacing wheel with new wheel - OK
—scrape and clean / replace undercoating where peeling – worth - done
—touch up any needed undercoating - done
—treat and seal any found corrosion –
—install RS type steering wheel
—steering column missing a spacer, replace
—adjust steering column spacing and play
—Install sport seats (supplied)
—powder coat black new seat rails
—new seat belt hardware
—Install door moisture barriers
—install RSR type door panels + new window hardware
—install round driver mirror
—modify new steering wheel with 1” custom spacer
—installed gas pedal stop
—Repair parking brake light/switch activation
BRAKES
—Flush brakes w/ Pentosin (supplied, install bleeder screw covers, supplied)
—Lightly pulsing brakes on light application – turned rotors lightly
—Install porterfield R4S brake pads, bed pads (pads supplied)
SUSPENSION
—inspect bearings and play on front axles, repack and adjust play
—inspect bushings, play in bushings / ball joints
—install turbo tie rods, set toe
—install front sway bar kit 18mm
—weld rear mounts to chassis
—weld ball mounts to swing arms
—install rear sway bar kit 18mm
--spacer on bottom of mounts to space bar back a few mm
—source and install 21/26 torsion bars
—Install adjustable rear spring plates
—Paint rear spring plates
—Install steering rack spacers
—Setup alignment “Proper”, height, and rake, corner balance
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NeufCentOnze (03-15-2021)