3.2 Valve Adjustment
#1
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In my 101 Projects for Your 911 book there is a section on adjusting valves. It says that it is is a 3hr job and that one does not have to be a master mechanic. It also states that they should be adjusted every 10K. Is this correct?
I have turned some wrenches in my day although I am not in the master mechanic category. Is this something that a weekend mechanic should attempt? If so please chime in with your tips!
Also what are people paying for this operation to their friendly Porsche mechanic?
I have turned some wrenches in my day although I am not in the master mechanic category. Is this something that a weekend mechanic should attempt? If so please chime in with your tips!
Also what are people paying for this operation to their friendly Porsche mechanic?
#2
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While '101 Projects' is a useful book for many Porsche repair and maintainance topics, it isn't a bible. Just like you, I have a copy, but I also have many other books I trust for info.
If you have never done a 911 valve adjust before, you may find yourself spending far more than 3 hours. In fact, if you are fussy, you may spend an entire weekend from start to finish. However, once you have done a few adjustments, you'll build up experience and speed dramatically. The important thing is to do the job right, whatever time it takes.
Do valves need adjusting every 10k?
Again, the book may be misleading you. Maybe you should *inspect* the valve adjustment every 10k, but probably will not need to touch the adjustment at all. On the average, the adjustment seems to stay in spec for a long, long time.
If you have never done a 911 valve adjust before, you may find yourself spending far more than 3 hours. In fact, if you are fussy, you may spend an entire weekend from start to finish. However, once you have done a few adjustments, you'll build up experience and speed dramatically. The important thing is to do the job right, whatever time it takes.
Do valves need adjusting every 10k?
Again, the book may be misleading you. Maybe you should *inspect* the valve adjustment every 10k, but probably will not need to touch the adjustment at all. On the average, the adjustment seems to stay in spec for a long, long time.
#3
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I vote for NO on valve adjustment every 10K, but for the ****-retentive, hey...knock yourself out. ![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
It is a "fussy" job if you think of what you're really doing. My advice is to make your best attempt at getting someone who has performed this nice little maintenance task before to assist. They can assure you are getting your feeler gauge in the proper location and show you their technique for enter/exit from under the "elephant's feet" and the proper amount of drag you should have on your feeler gauge to ensure correct adjustment.
It is a task that is NOT for the weak at heart, not necessarily a tough one either.![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My second good piece of advice is to make sure that you UNDERSTAND what you are doing, that helps dramatically! Ask yourself, WHY you are rotating the crankshaft in 120deg. increments?? ...and make sure you adjust BOTH the intake and exhaust valve for each particular cylinder at the same time.
I always say that half the battle is understanding what you are doing, and not just following a procedure.
Good luck, you'll be okay.
![hiha](https://rennlist.com/forums/graemlins/roflmao.gif)
It is a "fussy" job if you think of what you're really doing. My advice is to make your best attempt at getting someone who has performed this nice little maintenance task before to assist. They can assure you are getting your feeler gauge in the proper location and show you their technique for enter/exit from under the "elephant's feet" and the proper amount of drag you should have on your feeler gauge to ensure correct adjustment.
It is a task that is NOT for the weak at heart, not necessarily a tough one either.
![Smilie](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/smile.gif)
My second good piece of advice is to make sure that you UNDERSTAND what you are doing, that helps dramatically! Ask yourself, WHY you are rotating the crankshaft in 120deg. increments?? ...and make sure you adjust BOTH the intake and exhaust valve for each particular cylinder at the same time.
I always say that half the battle is understanding what you are doing, and not just following a procedure.
Good luck, you'll be okay.
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Get her up on ramps, you'll save your back. Having done my first valve adjust a few weeks ago, I concur that its not complicated, just a PITA. Get the proper valve adjust tool, and a valve adjust gasket/washer/nut and oil drain plug crush washer kit. If its your only car, set the entire weekend aside, just in case. I did mine start to finish in about 3 hours. Car seemed to idle smoother and have a little more power when I was done. I rechecked the torque on the valve covers after about 50 miles, just for the heck of it. ALSO, I strongly suggest that you disconnect the battery. When you take out the top left valve cover you can easily hit the left rear fuse terminals which are hot all the time (ask me how I know).
#5
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I recently ck'd at two Cincinnati area Porsche dealerships and got the following responses:
#1--$950.00, 11 hours, involves engine removal
#2--$450.00, 5 hours, involves exhaust removal
They didn't even blink--sounds like they don't want the business, or they have a high regard for their work.
#1--$950.00, 11 hours, involves engine removal
#2--$450.00, 5 hours, involves exhaust removal
They didn't even blink--sounds like they don't want the business, or they have a high regard for their work.
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I have been quoted 120 bgp by a very reputable UK Porsche specialist. The engine must be stone cold.
This is to include CO adjustment.
Seems your quotes are excessive. You don't drop the engine or the exhaust afaik.
This is to include CO adjustment.
Seems your quotes are excessive. You don't drop the engine or the exhaust afaik.
#7
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You don't drop the engine, but it must be stone cold.
It took me way over 3hr to do it. I was on my own and it was the 1st time I was doing it. Didn't have ramps and so had to jack the car up and go underneath. I'd say all in all it took me 5-6hr. Second time will be much faster.
The best part of doing it yourself is the satisfaction of saying: I DID IT.
It's not going to be that much cheaper if you do it yourself. You have to change the oil (10 quarts), the oil filter, the spark plugs, the valve gaskets. You have to buy the valve adj tool, spare blades, probably a couple of wrentches.... If your mechanic does it for under $250 you'll be break even.. But that's not the point is it, plus you keep the tools...
One last thing.... my Porsche mechaninc told me that when doing it it was better (if in doubt) to leave the valves a bit too loose rather than too tight... Obviously now mine clatter a little bit coz they are way too loose...
Good luck
PS
Have a spare car... in case you are not done in the timeframe u set yourself.
It took me way over 3hr to do it. I was on my own and it was the 1st time I was doing it. Didn't have ramps and so had to jack the car up and go underneath. I'd say all in all it took me 5-6hr. Second time will be much faster.
The best part of doing it yourself is the satisfaction of saying: I DID IT.
It's not going to be that much cheaper if you do it yourself. You have to change the oil (10 quarts), the oil filter, the spark plugs, the valve gaskets. You have to buy the valve adj tool, spare blades, probably a couple of wrentches.... If your mechanic does it for under $250 you'll be break even.. But that's not the point is it, plus you keep the tools...
One last thing.... my Porsche mechaninc told me that when doing it it was better (if in doubt) to leave the valves a bit too loose rather than too tight... Obviously now mine clatter a little bit coz they are way too loose...
Good luck
PS
Have a spare car... in case you are not done in the timeframe u set yourself.
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#8
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I believe the owners/service manual says to adjust the valves every 15K miles. Loose is better than tight (may burn a valve if too tight). My last adjustment cost $225 (I had it done when the engine was out for tranny rebuild). I'll do the next one myself. As has been stated, adjustment tool, plenty of spare blades, new gasket kit with nuts (silicone bead is best), oil & filter change, might as well do the plugs, and do not over torque the nuts (e.g., about 8 lbs working from the middle of the valve cover out to the edges).
Good Luck!
Good Luck!