waymore

can a head stud be replaced without removing yhe engine?

theiceman

nope ...

I could go into a really long discussion about what's involved .... but at the end of the day it s a couple hours to take an engine out including prep time. ....

theiceman

see how long they are ?

waymore

thanks

Dave Inc.

Absolute cheapest would be $6,000, but expect to take it back to the shop a few times to have them chase down the oil leaks they didn't seal properly the first time.

09mageec

How about total cost, as well as time if he chose a DIY. Just curious...

-Cam

Steve Weiner-Rennsport Systems

Nossir. The engine must be removed for that procedure.

JMHO, but a valve job should be done at the same time since they always need it (unless its recently been done). I would also replace all of those early Dilavar studs at the same time.

theiceman

I did mine myself. Shade under 5 k. And two years. Lol
But i did squeeze in a divorce while your in there. So there's that

tcsracing1

head studs are great, but might as well do valve job while you are there, along with any oil leaks.... and how about clutch life?

Bw prepared to spend. It can turn into a rebuild pretty quick.

BoomC2S

Had mine done this year. One stud broken on each side. 77k mikes on a 1980SC, so I had the clutch replaced too. While they were in there, they too recommended a valve job. Replaced all exhaust valves. Total job was right at $10k. The Indy shop also gave me a 10% PCA discount.

Dave Inc.

For mine this year I removed the engine and gave them the long block to tear down, then did the rest of the work myself. Their engine work including the valve job was $6200, plus another $1500 in parts for me including clutch, pressure plate, flywheel resurfacing, and miscellaneous wires, vacuum lines, etc.

Then it went back twice chasing leaks (all at their cost thankfully)...and had the lower valve covers replaced...and the front crank and IMS seals replaced twice... Still leaks, just not as badly. At some point I'm going to take it out again for a couple of things and I'll go full crazy and **** torquing everything to perfection, and making the most beautiful seals. Might be the actual crankshaft nose bearing is leaking--I may epoxy that external seal on that as well.

Runs great, though!

theiceman

i didn't bother with my clutch although if you don't do your own work you might. want to consider it . I measured how much wear on it , how long I had the car and at current rates calculated that I only had another 42 years before it wears out

Dave Inc.

I'm ****, I guess. When I'm taking things apart I'd rather use all new parts--I was also dealing with an inconsistent clutch and some vibration. Most of it was probably tied up in a stuck clutch fork shaft and omega spring but I didn't want to put everything back together and realize the pressure plate was bad. And truthfully the sachs clutch kit isn't so expensive. Ugh, just thinking about it bothers me--the helper arm was completely seized onto the fork shaft, I had to cut the helper spring off to get enough room to turn the shaft to disengage the fork, and then I had to torch and slam and torch and slam to get the freaking arm off the shaft. Smooth as butter now but arghgh.

theiceman

Okay yore gonna laugh at this ( okay not really ) . I took the engine apart also rebuilt the transmission. Did not realize the helper arm was supposed to spin freely on the cross shaft. PLUS I degreased the whole thing before working on the transmission .
Sure enough about 3 months after putting it back together I snapped a clutch cable. No problem , put on a new one but couldn't get proper adjustment on the 1.0mm only to discover the helper arm completely seized on to the cross shaft .. took a few days of troubleshooting to realize they are supposed to move independently. Spent the next week freeing up the helper arm as I refused to admit defeat and take engine out again .
Eventually I got it freed up .. but had to go to a buddies place with a lift 3 weeks later and drill out the pin holding the helper arm so I could replace the seal and fix it properly.

What a nightmare .. lesson learned ..

Dave Inc.

I can laugh a little bit, but I definitely feel your pain. Getting that helper shaft off once it's seized is surprisingly horrible, and I was lucky in that I was already pulling the trans. Had I not been able to separate the trans I don't know how in the world I would have gotten it out.

Yeah, lesson learned for sure, I bet you greased that thing to the moon just like I did, huh?