87-911 Stall
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Ottawa
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I am a new and proud owner of an 87-911. It is in fine shape and has been well maintained at a reputable shop. I have only put on 1000 miles and have a problem that seems to be with the ignition/fuel supply. At 1st when the car was still cold it would stall after approx 5 minutes of idling. It would take 7-8 times to start it over again and then it would run fine. I have changed the plugs and have changed the DME Relay.
Now, when the car is warm it stalls while driving and it takes again 7-8 times to start. I wait approx 5 minutes between times (swearing and cursing) as I am usually on the side of the road with my head down
The previous owner had the following done to the car within the last 20k miles
Coil
Temperature sensor
Oxygen sensor
RPM and TDc sensor (God knows what these are)
X relay (per the invoice this is under the driver's seat. Is this the DME again?)
Fuel filter
Anyhow, I have found this site very good and hope a good samaritan can enlighten me before a mechanic lightens my wallet.
I appreciate the advice.
Pepe
Now, when the car is warm it stalls while driving and it takes again 7-8 times to start. I wait approx 5 minutes between times (swearing and cursing) as I am usually on the side of the road with my head down
![Frown](https://rennlist.com/forums/images/smilies/frown.gif)
The previous owner had the following done to the car within the last 20k miles
Coil
Temperature sensor
Oxygen sensor
RPM and TDc sensor (God knows what these are)
X relay (per the invoice this is under the driver's seat. Is this the DME again?)
Fuel filter
Anyhow, I have found this site very good and hope a good samaritan can enlighten me before a mechanic lightens my wallet.
I appreciate the advice.
Pepe
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Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Orchard Park, NY
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Pepe:
It looks like all the "usual" suspecs have been investigated. Since you 9 yourself) didn't do these, you may find the need to do them all over again...at some poimt...only then can you be sure.
A few things..
1.) go over basics. See if you can determine whether its a fuel problem or an electrical ( spark) problem.
2.) If electrical, go over all the things mentioned on the previous work orders. See if all the connections are good. If you narrow it down to the cylinder head temp sensor, see if it's the newer 2 wire stlye ( with built-in ground wire)...not a simple replacememt of the previous and early one-wire design. Also, go over ALL grounds that you can find..at the battery, at the trans/chasssis point. Clean and/or replace the ground strap.
3.) If fuel..at least check the fuel rails for pressure..a good sign of fuel delivery issues.
Good luck...
---Wil Ferch
It looks like all the "usual" suspecs have been investigated. Since you 9 yourself) didn't do these, you may find the need to do them all over again...at some poimt...only then can you be sure.
A few things..
1.) go over basics. See if you can determine whether its a fuel problem or an electrical ( spark) problem.
2.) If electrical, go over all the things mentioned on the previous work orders. See if all the connections are good. If you narrow it down to the cylinder head temp sensor, see if it's the newer 2 wire stlye ( with built-in ground wire)...not a simple replacememt of the previous and early one-wire design. Also, go over ALL grounds that you can find..at the battery, at the trans/chasssis point. Clean and/or replace the ground strap.
3.) If fuel..at least check the fuel rails for pressure..a good sign of fuel delivery issues.
Good luck...
---Wil Ferch
#6
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I had the same problem recently except my car would not start, period. Turns out it was the electrical part of the ignition switch. Easy check is to see if there is 12 volts at the coil on run and on start. If not, it is probably the ignition switch, electrical part. It is not easy to change out, but if you have to, email me.
Burnell
Burnell