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yup that is the hole on left of the car -ok get the toll and lets see.
No need to start before draining the oil...no worries there but lets wait on that yet...
Ivan
Hi Iva, I got the scope but its only able to reach in an inch or so so I don't think I can access the area near the fork. The photos I took don't show much.
Good morning Ivan, I was thinking it was easier to pull out as a unit and then remove the trans. If the trans is still in the car is it more difficult to connect when reinstalling?
Hi ,no it is the other way around.Much easier just to pull the engine. Get some books and read it will help you.If no book i can give you tutorial what to disconnect.
But by mail ,it will be to long here;-)
ivan
Hi Ivan, Ok. I have read a few articles and watched videos. I am going to rebuild the pedal cluster today with the bronze bushings I got yesterday. I also need to build an engine "cart" for when I lower it down. I have a furniture dolly but don't think it's strong enough. So if I just drop the engine down do I need to remove it from under the car or can I work on the clutch in the separated position? Another worry is I don't have enough clearance. I got some 6 ton jack stands yesterday but my 3 ton jack only raises to around 24". I have to figure out how to get the rear end higher. I could place the jack on a 2x4 but need my "cart" to be able to clear that. Going over the process of what will need to clear in my mind before I begin, so I am onto the pedal cluster now. Hope to have it done in a few hours, wishful thinking !
Ivan, I would reconsider the advice on taking out just the engine. I think for a first-timer, taking the two units out together is easier/safer. The only extra work is disconnecting the CVs, the shift coupler, and the two transmission carrier bolts. And it avoids having to be careful to support the gearbox after the engine is out, so it doesn't sag and bend the shift rod.
I also think that taking only the engine out is a lot easier than putting it back in, and getting the clutch fork engaged on the throwout bearing. Getting the fork back on the throwout bearing is a lot easier to do with the transmission on the floor next to the engine.
Hi..not to worry too much.You can remove the engine ..remove the rear bumper.That is only 8 nuts.On the harmonicas on each side remove the nut which are attached to the fender extension and leave the other nut on the bumper.
Next is to remove the license plate lights.Then next the the bumper guards is a strip and there is little plug under it is phillips screw.Remove it and pull the strip out.There you can see on each side 2 nuts which hold the bumper to the rear bumper shocks.
Also on the bottom of the rear bumper is a valance piece -remove it.5 screws.
When you lift it you will have enough place to slide it out.No need to build any platform.I always leave it on the jack or i put it on my empty beer kegs It works just fine.If i have to work on the engine i have a factory stand for it.For that i used Bobcat loader;-)
I just finished a complete rebuild on 911 a did it like this no problem..
Here is when i do just a clutch job...
Hi Mark...no need to support the the trany it will be staying in place the axles are strong enough to cary it.For the ship rod it will not bend but for peace of mind you can disconnect the coupler.For the TO bearing, i can tell him a little trick how to assembly it;-)
Always more than one way to skin a cat. Rather than take out the rear bumper, I lower the engine/gearbox onto the jack (with a piece of plywood under the engine to spread the load), then use a second floor jack on the body in front of the gearbox to raise the car higher. Use a piece of lumber that spans the floor pan to spread the load, but with the engine/gearbox disconnected there isn't much weight left. Then support the body with jack stands under the rear torsion bars.
Like I said, lots of ways to do this. I have been away and haven't had a chance to catch up on this thread, but here is a handy article (with pictures) for dropping a 911SC engine: http://www.pelicanparts.com/techarti...ine_drop-1.htm
Hi Everyone, thank you all for the suggestions. I am probably going to drop them together since in my past I have tried lining up a inline 6 with tranny under the car and it wasn't fun. Seeing this is my first try with the flat 6 I don't want to force anything or bend anything.
So to cover all bases before the drop I am rebuilding the pedal cluster with bronze bushings. I have one more hex bolt to come out. Its on the bottom of long thin bar that I need to get the right size. I searched for directions since pelican doesn't give many specifics, they just say once the cluster is removed then take it to the bench.. I could have swore Ivan or Clive or someone posted a great tutorial on how to pull it, I thought it had me loosening the bolts at the master cylinder but so far all I need to remove is the thin gold bar. I took the round bar going to the master cylinder off at the top clevis pin pulling off that funky dotter-in or whatever it may be called. I hope I am doing this correctly. Almost there....
08-12-2017, 03:39 PM
