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Were you that much over weight for NASA TT3 that you could remove ~70#.
Peter
Yes, precisely. I weighed in at 3430lbs on scales right after coming off track with low fuel.
My min weight per TT3 form is 3347lbs.
With the changes it should be 3360lbs.
I think I can just empty the windshield fluid for the last 10lbs but for margin of error 3360 is probably good enough.
Would be nice to be able to put the seat back in and find another way to lower the weight by 40lbs though.
So yeah, 70lbs should be worth 3 secs at least lol (but yeah every bit helps!)
Corded the Left Rear RT660 (265/305 setup) after only 16 25 minutes sessions (5 track days).
May need to run less aggressive rear camber or change toe since I do drive to events.
Maybe -2.4 rear camber and +12 min of toe and drive the crap out of it. Load up the rear and push harder. The tires can take and actually need it to wear more evenly. Those big rear toe numbers are only when you are really hauling the mail on the high speed corners. You might even need to dial the whole setup down to -2.7 front and say -2.2 rear. What do the fronts look like? Is the alignment accurate?
Maybe -2.4 rear camber and +12 min of toe and drive the crap out of it. Load up the rear and push harder. The tires can take and actually need it to wear more evenly. Those big rear toe numbers are only when you are really hauling the mail on the high speed corners. You might even need to dial the whole setup down to -2.7 front and say -2.2 rear. What do the fronts look like? Is the alignment accurate?
Leo hauls the mail 😉 and my Camber setup is about the same as you said but a little more rear toe as we have some high speed braking at Sebring 145+ into turn17 with the car loaded.
Maybe -2.4 rear camber and +12 min of toe and drive the crap out of it. Load up the rear and push harder. The tires can take and actually need it to wear more evenly. Those big rear toe numbers are only when you are really hauling the mail on the high speed corners. You might even need to dial the whole setup down to -2.7 front and say -2.2 rear. What do the fronts look like? Is the alignment accurate?
Actually the fronts look pretty good, damn near perfect (though I'm not an expert). So maybe I just need to dial out camber on rear and see if that helps avoid that kind of wear.
Honestly I think I may try camber at -3.3 in front and -2.3 in rear to see if it works. What is +12' of toe to degrees, 2*?
I'm a noob at car setup but what I feel is the car has great front end grip and rotates really nicely, but the rear breaks loose more easily.
So I wouldn't say it oversteers but the front end has generally more grip than rear, but that could be more just my driving style.
Also, the rear end wiggle under hard braking is really bad. At the last event someone recommended I hold the steering wheel really lightly (w/ just 2 fingers)
and let it do it's thing vs holding tight. Seemed to work actually, still wiggles but it's not as unnerving. Will continue to try that.
Originally Posted by 85Gold
Leo hauls the mail 😉 and my Camber setup is about the same as you said but a little more rear toe as we have some high speed braking at Sebring 145+ into turn17 with the car loaded.
Peter
I may be stuck with less aggressive settings since I don't trailer the car to event and do occasional street driving (though it's very minimal).
Also, the cording when it's happened like this has been at Homestead so could be something specific to that track.
I've been thinking I should learn to do string alignment at home but I'm a total noob. Is it difficult to tweak camber/toe on the GT4?
Thanks for the feedback, appreciate it!
Last edited by l30thelion; 05-02-2024 at 03:23 PM.
04-26-2024, 01:09 PM
