Are the pccb rotors with girodisc steel conversion adequate for track?
#1
Are the pccb rotors with girodisc steel conversion adequate for track?
Specifically for hpde, trying to figure out a cost effective setup if I decide to track my car that currently has pccb.
i found the girodisc offers steel rotor conversion but wondering if the entire application is going to be effective for a day of 7 x 20 minutes sessions?
noticed some of the cars on track use ap racing big brake kits, and curious if those are more needed for very fast drivers, modified cars or endurance only?
tldr, is the stock caliper and a girodisc good enough?
i found the girodisc offers steel rotor conversion but wondering if the entire application is going to be effective for a day of 7 x 20 minutes sessions?
noticed some of the cars on track use ap racing big brake kits, and curious if those are more needed for very fast drivers, modified cars or endurance only?
tldr, is the stock caliper and a girodisc good enough?
#2
The stock calipers are perfectly fine in terms of braking performance, cooling and longevity, etc. There is no performance reason to replace them in my experience, as a relatively advanced HPDE driver / instructor.
There are other reasons to replace the stock calipers, however, including:
1. The stock calipers need to be completely removed every time in order to replace the brake pads. This is a hassle at best and will eventually wear out the threads in the aluminum wheel uprights from threading in the steel caliper bolts each time (which are technically one-time-use only). Aftermarket calipers usually allow replacing the pads without removing the caliper.
2. You may want to preserve the condition of the stock calipers for resale. They get dinged up quickly on the track and stained with brake dust, brake fluid. Mine have not changed color due to heat but some have reported the red ones getting darker. Not sure what happens to the yellow PCCB ones.
3. You may have clearance issues running 18" wheels with the stock calipers, aftermarket calipers may be lower profile.
You can mitigate #1 to some extent by switching to caliper studs instead of bolts. This will save your wheel uprights, but it's still a little annoying to remove the caliper and the attached brake line bracket, etc. each time you need to do a pad change (though I've gotten pretty fast at it).
There are other reasons to replace the stock calipers, however, including:
1. The stock calipers need to be completely removed every time in order to replace the brake pads. This is a hassle at best and will eventually wear out the threads in the aluminum wheel uprights from threading in the steel caliper bolts each time (which are technically one-time-use only). Aftermarket calipers usually allow replacing the pads without removing the caliper.
2. You may want to preserve the condition of the stock calipers for resale. They get dinged up quickly on the track and stained with brake dust, brake fluid. Mine have not changed color due to heat but some have reported the red ones getting darker. Not sure what happens to the yellow PCCB ones.
3. You may have clearance issues running 18" wheels with the stock calipers, aftermarket calipers may be lower profile.
You can mitigate #1 to some extent by switching to caliper studs instead of bolts. This will save your wheel uprights, but it's still a little annoying to remove the caliper and the attached brake line bracket, etc. each time you need to do a pad change (though I've gotten pretty fast at it).
#3
The stock calipers are perfectly fine in terms of braking performance, cooling and longevity, etc. There is no performance reason to replace them in my experience, as a relatively advanced HPDE driver / instructor.
There are other reasons to replace the stock calipers, however, including:
1. The stock calipers need to be completely removed every time in order to replace the brake pads. This is a hassle at best and will eventually wear out the threads in the aluminum wheel uprights from threading in the steel caliper bolts each time (which are technically one-time-use only). Aftermarket calipers usually allow replacing the pads without removing the caliper.
2. You may want to preserve the condition of the stock calipers for resale. They get dinged up quickly on the track and stained with brake dust, brake fluid. Mine have not changed color due to heat but some have reported the red ones getting darker. Not sure what happens to the yellow PCCB ones.
3. You may have clearance issues running 18" wheels with the stock calipers, aftermarket calipers may be lower profile.
You can mitigate #1 to some extent by switching to caliper studs instead of bolts. This will save your wheel uprights, but it's still a little annoying to remove the caliper and the attached brake line bracket, etc. each time you need to do a pad change (though I've gotten pretty fast at it).
There are other reasons to replace the stock calipers, however, including:
1. The stock calipers need to be completely removed every time in order to replace the brake pads. This is a hassle at best and will eventually wear out the threads in the aluminum wheel uprights from threading in the steel caliper bolts each time (which are technically one-time-use only). Aftermarket calipers usually allow replacing the pads without removing the caliper.
2. You may want to preserve the condition of the stock calipers for resale. They get dinged up quickly on the track and stained with brake dust, brake fluid. Mine have not changed color due to heat but some have reported the red ones getting darker. Not sure what happens to the yellow PCCB ones.
3. You may have clearance issues running 18" wheels with the stock calipers, aftermarket calipers may be lower profile.
You can mitigate #1 to some extent by switching to caliper studs instead of bolts. This will save your wheel uprights, but it's still a little annoying to remove the caliper and the attached brake line bracket, etc. each time you need to do a pad change (though I've gotten pretty fast at it).
do you know if soft brake lines can eliminate the need to take off the bracket during pad swap?
#5
#6
Rennlist Member
or just keep the PCCB and ignore the RL "made of glass" FUD.
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Bluemax2 (09-25-2023)