GTS tires?
01-22-2023, 11:42 AM
#2
Use your street tires if you have antilock brakes. (You do). They are a consumable, so if they wear out, you can replace them. If you run them on the road, they still get hard and noisy after a few years and low on tread if you drive with spirit.
01-22-2023, 07:06 PM
#3
Rennlist Member
Tell us a little more..........
How many DE events yearly?
How 'serious' a DE driver are you - are you chasing lap times or just enjoying the track experience?
Stock suspension or have you added camber?
What's your street use - annual miles, climate, commuting or just 'spirited' weekend drives, etc?
This will help us give you better answers.
All that pending, the OEM Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics have served me well as 400 TW tires for both street and track use for a couple of years - mostly with stock suspension (22 track days) and now with camber plates (-2.0 all around, 7 track days). You will get about 5 - 7 track days out of the fronts before you kill the edges and about 15 days out of the rears. The edges will start to cord even though you will have tons of tread left in the centers.
I don't have personal experience with the other OEM tires, but word on the street is that the Michelin PS4S, while a great street tire, are more prone than the Goodyears to chunk out the side edges quickly. The Pirellis seem to be universally hated from a performance standpoint; I haven't seen much written about durability.
After two seasons, I'm switching to 200 TW tires on 18 inch wheels for the track and keeping the 20's for the street - there's a few threads here with lots of details. In addition to the increased grip of fat 200 TW 18's, running costs go down. I'm going with Bridgestone RE71RS for the track, for the balance of performance (including wet) and durability. There are faster tires and more durable tires, but these seemed to be the best balance for me, especially as I drive my car to and from the track. I'd characterize myself as a 'semi-serious' track driver - blue working on white PCA after two years, aspire to hit black/red, 20 - 25 days/year, just starting to log data.
There's not much out there for 200 TW tires for the 20" wheels - only Michelin PS2s. Availability seems poor, price is exorbitant, and they apparently heat cycle out quickly (ie, turn into rocks even though a lot of tread left).
Sooooo.....if you're going to track a lot, consider a second set of wheels and tires (and studs to facilitate changes and protect your hubs). It all pays for itself fairly quickly. If you're just tracking a couple of times a year on your 20's; I like the Goodyears as stated. Availability of fronts is spotty, but dealers get priority so you can usually order through them.
Tell us more about yourself and we can fine tune recs.
How many DE events yearly?
How 'serious' a DE driver are you - are you chasing lap times or just enjoying the track experience?
Stock suspension or have you added camber?
What's your street use - annual miles, climate, commuting or just 'spirited' weekend drives, etc?
This will help us give you better answers.
All that pending, the OEM Goodyear Eagle F1 Asymmetrics have served me well as 400 TW tires for both street and track use for a couple of years - mostly with stock suspension (22 track days) and now with camber plates (-2.0 all around, 7 track days). You will get about 5 - 7 track days out of the fronts before you kill the edges and about 15 days out of the rears. The edges will start to cord even though you will have tons of tread left in the centers.
I don't have personal experience with the other OEM tires, but word on the street is that the Michelin PS4S, while a great street tire, are more prone than the Goodyears to chunk out the side edges quickly. The Pirellis seem to be universally hated from a performance standpoint; I haven't seen much written about durability.
After two seasons, I'm switching to 200 TW tires on 18 inch wheels for the track and keeping the 20's for the street - there's a few threads here with lots of details. In addition to the increased grip of fat 200 TW 18's, running costs go down. I'm going with Bridgestone RE71RS for the track, for the balance of performance (including wet) and durability. There are faster tires and more durable tires, but these seemed to be the best balance for me, especially as I drive my car to and from the track. I'd characterize myself as a 'semi-serious' track driver - blue working on white PCA after two years, aspire to hit black/red, 20 - 25 days/year, just starting to log data.
There's not much out there for 200 TW tires for the 20" wheels - only Michelin PS2s. Availability seems poor, price is exorbitant, and they apparently heat cycle out quickly (ie, turn into rocks even though a lot of tread left).
Sooooo.....if you're going to track a lot, consider a second set of wheels and tires (and studs to facilitate changes and protect your hubs). It all pays for itself fairly quickly. If you're just tracking a couple of times a year on your 20's; I like the Goodyears as stated. Availability of fronts is spotty, but dealers get priority so you can usually order through them.
Tell us more about yourself and we can fine tune recs.
Last edited by ldamelio; 01-22-2023 at 07:18 PM.
01-25-2023, 07:32 AM
#4
Rennlist Member
I've been more than satisfied with the stock Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires on my CGTS. I've got 7K miles on them, including 5 DE days, a couple SCCA Track Sprints, and a half-dozen autocrosses (including a class win at the 2022 PCA Parade at Pocono Raceway 
). They even work remarkably well in the rain, as long as you can get a little heat into them. At the track, I don't try to run at 10/10ths for most corners because I'm just there for fun (and don't want to put the car off the track or into a wall), so I suspect a better/faster driver might chew through the PS4S tires faster than me. 
Looks like I'll be replacing my tires later this season...but I think I've got at least 2 more DE days left in the original set. I'm thinking about going with 10mm wider PS4S tires front and rear for the next set: from 265/35-20 to 275/35-20 in the rear, and from 235/35-20 to 245/35/20 in the front. Slightly wider contact patch, slightly more rim protection, and slightly taller sidewall for dealing with my crappy pothole-ravaged roads. But each wider tire is 1 pound heavier, so a gain of 4 pounds of unsprung weight. I doubt I'll be able to tell a difference behind the wheel.
). They even work remarkably well in the rain, as long as you can get a little heat into them. At the track, I don't try to run at 10/10ths for most corners because I'm just there for fun (and don't want to put the car off the track or into a wall), so I suspect a better/faster driver might chew through the PS4S tires faster than me. Looks like I'll be replacing my tires later this season...but I think I've got at least 2 more DE days left in the original set. I'm thinking about going with 10mm wider PS4S tires front and rear for the next set: from 265/35-20 to 275/35-20 in the rear, and from 235/35-20 to 245/35/20 in the front. Slightly wider contact patch, slightly more rim protection, and slightly taller sidewall for dealing with my crappy pothole-ravaged roads. But each wider tire is 1 pound heavier, so a gain of 4 pounds of unsprung weight. I doubt I'll be able to tell a difference behind the wheel.
The following users liked this post:
DoctorJ (01-26-2023)
01-25-2023, 02:01 PM
#5
Rennlist Member
I've been more than satisfied with the stock Michelin Pilot Sport 4S tires on my CGTS. I've got 7K miles on them, including 5 DE days, a couple SCCA Track Sprints, and a half-dozen autocrosses (including a class win at the 2022 PCA Parade at Pocono Raceway ). They even work remarkably well in the rain, as long as you can get a little heat into them. At the track, I don't try to run at 10/10ths for most corners because I'm just there for fun (and don't want to put the car off the track or into a wall), so I suspect a better/faster driver might chew through the PS4S tires faster than me.
Looks like I'll be replacing my tires later this season...but I think I've got at least 2 more DE days left in the original set. I'm thinking about going with 10mm wider PS4S tires front and rear for the next set: from 265/35-20 to 275/35-20 in the rear, and from 235/35-20 to 245/35/20 in the front. Slightly wider contact patch, slightly more rim protection, and slightly taller sidewall for dealing with my crappy pothole-ravaged roads. But each wider tire is 1 pound heavier, so a gain of 4 pounds of unsprung weight. I doubt I'll be able to tell a difference behind the wheel.
). They even work remarkably well in the rain, as long as you can get a little heat into them. At the track, I don't try to run at 10/10ths for most corners because I'm just there for fun (and don't want to put the car off the track or into a wall), so I suspect a better/faster driver might chew through the PS4S tires faster than me. Looks like I'll be replacing my tires later this season...but I think I've got at least 2 more DE days left in the original set. I'm thinking about going with 10mm wider PS4S tires front and rear for the next set: from 265/35-20 to 275/35-20 in the rear, and from 235/35-20 to 245/35/20 in the front. Slightly wider contact patch, slightly more rim protection, and slightly taller sidewall for dealing with my crappy pothole-ravaged roads. But each wider tire is 1 pound heavier, so a gain of 4 pounds of unsprung weight. I doubt I'll be able to tell a difference behind the wheel.
Im also a NorthEaster and run these on my current car. Great traction in all weather conditions, and suitable for track days. I have also been running 10MM wider front to back for years now, and love the addition contact patch they provide. The additional beefiness also fills the wheel well nicely... almost like you added spacers for a proper wheel fitment.
Edit: these tires are a no go in anything from a winters mix to snow. Been there, done that, and I probably lost a year off my life due to the stress.
Last edited by BoxKing; 01-25-2023 at 03:57 PM.