FWIW, on the other side of the beltway from you, at Radial Tire, where tires as replaced on a family minivan, right next to a track only car brought by a trailer, they were adamant about "patching" my all-season, vs. "Buying a new one". I wound up buying a new one (my reasons are my own), and letting them patch the damaged tire, and kept it as a spare.

 

i am by no means saying this particular brand is the one to use, it was just the first one that came up in google.

if you are going to patch it, and i think you will be safe with road-only driving doing so, make sure it is one of this type:


it is far superior to the old style:

https://www.autozone.com/suspension-...E&gclsrc=aw.ds

 

Interesting. Based on what? I’ve never seen those before but generally agree that patching (which requires removing the tire from the wheel) is superior to plugging, although I have had good luck with plugging.

 

I agree....the plug and patch combo (mushroom patches) are the way to go.

 

plug + patch > plug alone

 

During a road trip awhile back one of the rear tires picked up a screw, it was patched by a Porsche dealer with a "T" style patch/plug, they said you as good as gold and are safe to return home. It was only when I asked that they made any comment about track use, they said not recommended. When I got home I ordered a replacement tire had it installed and kept the patched tire as a spare.

Fast forward to this past fall, I changed over to my winter set and discovered a boulder (exaggeration) in the other original back tire, the damn thing created a void right down to the cords! So, not really what I would like for street or track driving, the traed depth on the patched rear tire now matches the tread depth of the remaining tire...

The current plan, mount the patched tire in place of the recently compromised tire and carry on, these are my summer/ occasional track tires.

 

so you want to run unevenly worn tires, one with a repair, on the track? may wanna rethink that...

 

Actually they would be pretty much a match for wear and tread depth, right to left rear on account of the track days in between swaps.

 

ok, it's your life and money...

 

Thanks for sharing your opinion...

 

Geez, talk about timing. Did a quick search for "tire repair" today and this popped up!

I haven't had a flat in 5 years and got tagged by a 4 inch construction screw on my bicycle last month and then backed my 911 out of the garage today and something felt funny... Got out to look. MFer. Another construction screw, this time only 2 inches long in the rear left tire. Safely inside the tread. Going to plug and patch it.

 

So you’re thinking that a patched tire on the track is going to somehow explode and then he’ll crash?

 

let me clarify it for you instead of you putting words into my mouth. i never said the above but i am also not saying there can't be problems with a compromised tire on track, and risking a car or worse a life for an easy repair you know of prior is never worth it. there is a reason all sources, other than individual opinions, tell you not to drive a compromised/repaired tire on track. track does not equal street, even for beginners. then again people are people and some just don't get it. i have seen many drivers turned away from a DE event for having tire issues.

to each his own, but when using a high performance vehicle like ours on track cheaping out on a ~$300 replacement for a ~$40 quick fix is not the way to do it. not doing any track driving? patch away as you will never get to the limits of the tires on the street unless you are already breaking the law.

 

FWIW, to buy the Dunlop Maxx Race 2 (295/30ZR20) where I am is more like $900 each and if you were doing that you would have to do both on the axel for obvious reasons, so with taxes and installation closer to $2000, if you can even get them.

 

New tire {ALWAYS} !!!

Terry