Bose Tweeter Upgrade
#1
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Bose Tweeter Upgrade
Thanks to @Bob Z. for parts link and assistance in the install.
Musicar noted in their thread that the Bose dash tweeters are a weak point in the system. Wow, were they right!
This upgrade uses exact fitment drop in Burmester tweeters.
Here’s the parts list and tweeter comparison.
Delaware Porsche had these on sale; quick delivery. These are listed as not compatible because of a small plastic tab that is removed to plug in connector
Clear differences, Bose on bottom. Burm tweeter weighs significantly more
Part numbers and manufacturing origin.
Get some plastic trim tools. I actually used two to pry up from center and sides. Once you can get your fingers in the gap firmly pull up and out.
Here is a close up of the Bose tweeter in-situ. This is a fiddly removal. I used two flat bladed screwdrivers simultaneously move tabs back and pry speaker out. Be careful not to break the tabs.
The speaker has about 5 inches of wire slack. Disconnect connection and trim off the very small side tab. I didn’t get a picture, but it’ll be obvious. I used a sharp kitchen scissor to do this.
Reverse process and your done. First side took about an hour because leather dash, expensive parts, and extreme care. 2nd tweeter 5 minutes.
During install I used the fader to listen to Bose and Burm half way through install— huge difference. Bose blows above about 1/2 volume. If there was a lot of “wind noise” (lol) out driving previously I’d just turn the stereo down — just became too muddled.
The Burm upgrade has been up to 85mph with top down and incredible clarity. Lot more punch. Lowered my treble to neutral.
If you have Bose, I can’t recommend this upgrade enough…just do it.
Cheers
Shaggy
Musicar noted in their thread that the Bose dash tweeters are a weak point in the system. Wow, were they right!
This upgrade uses exact fitment drop in Burmester tweeters.
Here’s the parts list and tweeter comparison.
Delaware Porsche had these on sale; quick delivery. These are listed as not compatible because of a small plastic tab that is removed to plug in connector
Clear differences, Bose on bottom. Burm tweeter weighs significantly more
Part numbers and manufacturing origin.
Get some plastic trim tools. I actually used two to pry up from center and sides. Once you can get your fingers in the gap firmly pull up and out.
Here is a close up of the Bose tweeter in-situ. This is a fiddly removal. I used two flat bladed screwdrivers simultaneously move tabs back and pry speaker out. Be careful not to break the tabs.
The speaker has about 5 inches of wire slack. Disconnect connection and trim off the very small side tab. I didn’t get a picture, but it’ll be obvious. I used a sharp kitchen scissor to do this.
Reverse process and your done. First side took about an hour because leather dash, expensive parts, and extreme care. 2nd tweeter 5 minutes.
During install I used the fader to listen to Bose and Burm half way through install— huge difference. Bose blows above about 1/2 volume. If there was a lot of “wind noise” (lol) out driving previously I’d just turn the stereo down — just became too muddled.
The Burm upgrade has been up to 85mph with top down and incredible clarity. Lot more punch. Lowered my treble to neutral.
If you have Bose, I can’t recommend this upgrade enough…just do it.
Cheers
Shaggy
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#2
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Glad to "hear" it, and I am glad someone else feels the same as I did after I installed them. I am not sure how they would compare to the $600 tweeters from Musicar but the Burms are such an improvement for about 75% less money so I do not care!
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#3
Burning Brakes
I did the same also replaced the mid and woofers. I found some nice caps on Amazon for the tweeters. Here’s a pic of the little nub on the tweeter tab that needs to be removed.
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Thanks - the tab that needs to be removed is on the left side of the connector in the picture above. You will not be able to plug in the Burms unless that tab is removed, and that is why Porsche parts say it is not compatible with the Bose system tweeters.
#6
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I didn't have super high expectations for the Bose Audio system, but since it was theoretically an upgrade from the base system, I hoped it would be noticeably better than the base system in my BMW X3. I haven't had a lot of time listening to the system yet, but my initial impressions are that it is noticeably worse than that base system in the X3. This is definitely a bit of a disappointment. I just ordered these tweeters to see what they do for the system.
Thanks for sharing the information.
Dave
Thanks for sharing the information.
Dave
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#8
BOSE = Buy other sound equipment
Glad some are coming to realize it and no longer believe the “better sound through marketing “ hype.
Glad some are coming to realize it and no longer believe the “better sound through marketing “ hype.
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#9
@dnimi123 A cap in parallel will be a high pass, passive crossover.
@TXshaggy @Bob Z. Do the Burm have them built in somewhere? I expect the existence of them on the Bose means they'll be needed for other tweeters, i.e. Bose doesn't have the correct active or passive high pass filter upstream.
@TXshaggy @Bob Z. Do the Burm have them built in somewhere? I expect the existence of them on the Bose means they'll be needed for other tweeters, i.e. Bose doesn't have the correct active or passive high pass filter upstream.
Last edited by enduro; 02-10-2022 at 07:55 PM.
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#12
That is also why Porsche had the "non-compatibility" warning. It wasn't just the connector tab.
Last edited by ExMB; 02-10-2022 at 08:08 PM.
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#13
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I don’t know about the caps, here are a couple more photos if that helps.
System sounds great at volumes well above anything I attempted with the Bose tweeters.
System sounds great at volumes well above anything I attempted with the Bose tweeters.
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There is a x-over somewhere in the Bermester system. Depends on how the tweeter is fed. It could be a 6 or 12 dB setup. Running a full range signal, as shown in the BLOWS setup, will eventually blow the tweeter due to unfiltered low frequency content being supplied to it. A simple cap is 6 dB whereas a LC setup would be 12 dB.
That is also why Porsche had the "non-compatibility" warning. It wasn't just the connector tab.
That is also why Porsche had the "non-compatibility" warning. It wasn't just the connector tab.
#15
Great pics. On the Bermester its hard to tell whether that is an attenuating resistor or a small cap. Can't really tell without seeing what appears to be an impossible to get clean pic.