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With a little more than 2000 miles on my 4.0 I decided the time was right to perform the first oil change, so Saturday I put it on the MaxJax and got started. The biggest difference from my 981 is the undertray arrangement, it completely covers the oil pan and is a pain to remove and a bigger one to replace. 4 nuts, 4 bolts and 6 torx head screws hold it on, but a tab at the front means it slides back to release while at the rear two protrusions must be slid Forward at the same time, which is impossible. I ended up using a pry bar to leverage the front tab out so the tray would drop down.
The plastic plug removes easily enough with a large screwdriver or the special tool.I let it drain for over an hour and removed the filter while it was draining. Replace the plug with a new one, same for the filter and O ring, then try to replace the tray. I finally gave up getting the front tab in place and see no real problem in leaving it out. After that it's just filling with oil and cleaning up.
I used 7 1/2 quarts of Liqui Moly 5W-40 and after driving it enough to bring it up to temp I added another half quart, All is good
If someone has a tip on replacing the tray I'm all ears. .
With a little more than 2000 miles on my 4.0 I decided the time was right to perform the first oil change, so Saturday I put it on the MaxJax and got started. The biggest difference from my 981 is the undertray arrangement, it completely covers the oil pan and is a pain to remove and a bigger one to replace. 4 nuts, 4 bolts and 6 torx head screws hold it on, but a tab at the front means it slides back to release while at the rear two protrusions must be slid Forward at the same time, which is impossible. I ended up using a pry bar to leverage the front tab out so the tray would drop down.
The plastic plug removes easily enough with a large screwdriver or the special tool.I let it drain for over an hour and removed the filter while it was draining. Replace the plug with a new one, same for the filter and O ring, then try to replace the tray. I finally gave up getting the front tab in place and see no real problem in leaving it out.
If someone has a tip on replacing the tray I'm all ears. .
I'm not sure why you had so much trouble with the trays under the car. On the GT4 if you just start at the back with the center tunnel and work your way towards the front of the car removing panels there's no issue removing them. They all just neatly slide out and in - but the key is that each one overlaps the other so you have to take them all off.
If you leave the front tabs down you're likely to catch them on something or get extra debris under the panels.
The dealership does the same thing to change the oil without issues, so maybe you could ask them to demonstrate?
With a little more than 2000 miles on my 4.0 I decided the time was right to perform the first oil change, so Saturday I put it on the MaxJax and got started. The biggest difference from my 981 is the undertray arrangement, it completely covers the oil pan and is a pain to remove and a bigger one to replace. 4 nuts, 4 bolts and 6 torx head screws hold it on, but a tab at the front means it slides back to release while at the rear two protrusions must be slid Forward at the same time, which is impossible. I ended up using a pry bar to leverage the front tab out so the tray would drop down.
The plastic plug removes easily enough with a large screwdriver or the special tool.I let it drain for over an hour and removed the filter while it was draining. Replace the plug with a new one, same for the filter and O ring, then try to replace the tray. I finally gave up getting the front tab in place and see no real problem in leaving it out. After that it's just filling with oil and cleaning up.
I used 7 1/2 quarts of Liqui Moly 5W-40 and after driving it enough to bring it up to temp I added another half quart, All is good
If someone has a tip on replacing the tray I'm all ears. .
Did you get your oil filter/rubber washer and drain plug from FCP euro too? If so, can you please post the parts number please. I know Suncoast has the filter on their site but not direct parts numbers. thx!!!! @Bill Mitchell
Last edited by pcarGTS4.0; 07-12-2021 at 09:43 AM.
Here's a picture of the GT4 with the panels to remove.... I understand they're slightly different on the GTS 4.0 (I don't have a picture to go off of) but the premise is the same: start at the rear and work your way forward. They are tucked under each other for a reason, and need to be taken off in order.
As is stated, the GT4 is different. Only one panel needs be removed on the GTS. Sure, I could have removed the next forward panel, but that's a lot of extra work and there's no guarantee that it wouldn't have required ANOTHER panel removal. The tab is about 4" wide and I don't see any real problem leaving it as is, it doesn't hang down but rather bends upward and unless I go off-roading it isn't very likely to catch on anything.
I sourced my filter from Amazon, but it was one I already had since the same one fits the 9A1 engine in my 981. Mahle OX 366 D I believe.
If I have an opportunity to ask a tech I will, but the next time I have my car on the lift I'll take a closer look at the layout, I was time-constrained when I buttoned things back up.
Here's a picture of the GT4 with the panels to remove.... I understand they're slightly different on the GTS 4.0 (I don't have a picture to go off of) but the premise is the same: start at the rear and work your way forward. They are tucked under each other for a reason, and need to be taken off in order.
More than "slightly" different. Panels 1 and 2 aren't there.
If I have an opportunity to ask a tech I will, but the next time I have my car on the lift I'll take a closer look at the layout, I was time-constrained when I buttoned things back up.
That's fair, I'm just responding based on what I know (a GT4)
I guess the root of my response is that I know the techs are able to put the cover back on, and they don't change the oil in any different way than what you've done so there must be a way to do it cleanly and easily (no pry bar, etc). Good luck!
Last edited by iliveoncaffiene; 07-12-2021 at 03:40 PM.
That's fair, I'm just responding based on what I know (a GT4)
I guess the root of my response is that I know the techs are able to put the cover back on, and they don't change the oil in any different way than what you've done so there must be a way to do it cleanly and easily (no pry bar, etc). Good luck!
In fairness, I don't have another tech the next bay over to assist me in getting everything lined up, plus my old arms get tired after a few minutes holding the tray above my head. I'll eventually figure it out but it's poor design that it doesn't slot in easily.
Try loosening the 4th part of the underbody tray where it meets the third part. TAke of at least the 2 fasteners of the fourth tray where the 4th tray meets the third, if that makes sens. That’s what i did on my gt4. That way you can get the 3rd and 4th underbody tray interlocking.
I guess it’s designed that way for added security.
I did my first oil change on my '22 Cayman GTS 4.0 this weekend, and I wanted to share my notes for anyone else doing this on any of the GTS 4.0 cars. There are lots of videos for the GT4 and Spyder, but I didn't find one for the GTS 4.0. Not that it turned out to be much different!
Only need to remove 3rd underbody engine cover from GT4 picture above. Panels 1 & 2 are not present on the GTS 4.0 cars.
You'll need T25 torx for underbody, plus 10mm for plastic nuts and semi-hidden bolts
I also removed two additional torx screw from the underbody panel just forward of panel 3, just to make it easier to to drop panel 3.
Oil filter wrench for 4.0 liter cars: Hazet 2169 Filter Wrench for 981/718 is 74.4mm (ordered mine from Pelican Parts)
Watch this video at the 9:18 mark for thelocation of the four (4) semi-hidden 10mm bolts
Take an oil sample after flow has slowed towards end of drain cycle…it runs out for a long time so there is plenty of time to catch a full bottle
Don’t over-torque plastic drain plug; it doesn’t take a lot of force to lock it in place (line up arrows and it’s closed)
Oil filter drops straight down, a bit messy but straightforward. I had read that it was a challenge to change the filter on 718's with PDK (like my car), but I think all those thread refer to the 4 cylinder cars, and not the 4.0 cars.
Use small oil drain pan to catch spills from oil filter removal. Not a lot spills, but you do have to tip the filter slightly to one side to clear the brace.
Oil filter torque is marked directly on the filter cover (25Nm or 18 ft-lbs)
Be sure to wipe crossmembers below oil filter after new filter is installed (oil is there but hidden)
Fill with 8 quarts to start; probably will need another 0.3 quart to get to middle level
I struggled to get an oil reading after the change. This worked for me: 1. Drive the car until everything is up to temperature. 2. Turn off car but do not open front or rear trunk. 3. Wait 5-10 minutes. 4. Turn on engine and let it idle for 5 minutes. 5. Get oil reading!
I'm interested to know the results of the oil analysis. Pretty sure I read a thread on here where someone changed the oil on their new 4.0 after a few thousand miles and sent it for analysis, and the report was that the oil change was essentially pointless. On my last, new car (Jaguar F-Type) I changed the oil after 2,000 miles from new 'just to be safe', but I really feel these days that this practice of changing it out on a new engine after a few thousand miles is really no longer necessary even as a precaution like it was a while back. Mine is due its first service in a few weeks and the onboard computer only wanted me to change oil for the first time at 25,000km.
I'm interested to know the results of the oil analysis. Pretty sure I read a thread on here where someone changed the oil on their new 4.0 after a few thousand miles and sent it for analysis, and the report was that the oil change was essentially pointless. On my last, new car (Jaguar F-Type) I changed the oil after 2,000 miles from new 'just to be safe', but I really feel these days that this practice of changing it out on a new engine after a few thousand miles is really no longer necessary even as a precaution like it was a while back. Mine is due its first service in a few weeks and the onboard computer only wanted me to change oil for the first time at 25,000km.
I agree with you! Normally I change my oil every 7,500 miles for my cars with naturally aspirated engines (like the GTS4.0), and every 5,000 miles for my cars with turbocharged engines. But when I track a car, like I do with the GTS, I cut all the normal service intervals in half. One day at the track may only be 150-180 miles on the odometer, but each track mile is easily 10x harder on a car than a mile on the street. So things like oil changes, transmission/PDK fluid changes, and brake fluid changes need to happen on a greatly accelerated schedule.
07-12-2021, 12:00 AM
First oil change for my GTS
