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@911F1 I just had my Spyder compeltely revamped, I need to go for a spirited drive before passing judgment, but the tech said mine was a 'good candidate' for a suspension adjustment... the factory settings were not the best.
Thanks for the heads up Westcoast. I bet every Spyder/GT4 came from the factory with bad alignment specs.
Factory alignments are always off , regardless of the MFG. it seems.
The first thing I will do after getting my GT4 and breaking it in, is go to my race shop and have them do a full alignment and corner balance. Skip the dealer on this one and go straight to a race shop that have laser alignment racks.
My Porsche dealer has the latest Hunter Laser alignment rack, the lead tech/shop foreman has been setting up Porsche GT cars for years, skill and competence can also be found close to home!
My Porsche dealer has the latest Hunter Laser alignment rack, the lead tech/shop foreman has been setting up Porsche GT cars for years, skill and competence can also be found close to home!
Can you post a picture of your alignment specs or PM me?
Can you post a picture of your alignment specs or PM me?
I am going to reach out to my tech and ask him if he has the base setting that the Spyder came in with as a reference. Have you been to this thread? There is some good reading here as well: https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...knowledge.html
Below is what the Spyder suspension is currently set to, I think that both roll bars are set to the middle position.
My factory alignment was a mess on my new spyder as well. I'm used to it though. Right after clear bra and tint, it goes to a local race shop that aligns my cars for me. Mine have almost always been way off. On top of that, he is about 1/3 what Porsche charges.
My factory alignment was a mess on my new spyder as well. I'm used to it though. Right after clear bra and tint, it goes to a local race shop that aligns my cars for me. Mine have almost always been way off. On top of that, he is about 1/3 what Porsche charges.
Let us know how it goes, and if possible have them record what it was from the factory,
I am going to reach out to my tech and ask him if he has the base setting that the Spyder came in with as a reference. Have you been to this thread? There is some good reading here as well: https://rennlist.com/forums/718-gts-...knowledge.html
Below is what the Spyder suspension is currently set to, I think that both roll bars are set to the middle position.
HTH
With RSS suspension parts installed.
Hi, how does it handle? I have just added shims to the front and got 10.2° caster, stock was 9.5° and you have 8.7°. They are very different values so I am curious about your setup. How is turn in and mid-turn grip?
Mine with -2.1° camber and +10.2° caster feels odd sometimes. Like it has slow turn in and mid-turn grip. But then, if you push the gas pedal it turns/rotates very well with no understeer. I don't really know if it's better now or stock (-1.5° camber & 9.5° caster).
Hi, how does it handle? I have just added shims to the front and got 10.2° caster, stock was 9.5° and you have 8.7°. They are very different values so I am curious about your setup. How is turn in and mid-turn grip?
Mine with -2.1° camber and +10.2° caster feels odd sometimes. Like it has slow turn in and mid-turn grip. But then, if you push the gas pedal it turns/rotates very well with no understeer. I don't really know if it's better now or stock (-1.5° camber & 9.5° caster).
Curious why you felt the need for so much caster?
So far my testing since the 'over hall' have only been on some of my better know back roads and I am very happy, no understeer at all and the turn in quality surprises me, and what I mean by that is it is smooth, controlled and without drama. On the road I used I know the corners so my speed through them is steady so I haven't had the chance to see how the turn in and understeer behaves when I apply throttle mid-corner, only nearing the exit and again very stable, solid.
The handling is solid and so far capable above what I was used to on these cars so I need some more time to explore, best on a track I would say, so I can repeat corners often so to try different throttle applications and steering angles. My only concern so far is the feeling of the steering coming off straight ahead, it is heavier then I remember but still very precise, also the steering doesn't come back to center like I remember, I believe that the toe setting is part of this.
So far my testing since the 'over hall' have only been on some of my better know back roads and I am very happy, no understeer at all and the turn in quality surprises me, and what I mean by that is it is smooth, controlled and without drama. On the road I used I know the corners so my speed through them is steady so I haven't had the chance to see how the turn in and understeer behaves when I apply throttle mid-corner, only nearing the exit and again very stable, solid.
The handling is solid and so far capable above what I was used to on these cars so I need some more time to explore, best on a track I would say, so I can repeat corners often so to try different throttle applications and steering angles. My only concern so far is the feeling of the steering coming off straight ahead, it is heavier then I remember but still very precise, also the steering doesn't come back to center like I remember, I believe that the toe setting is part of this.
Caster will increase with camber unless you also get an adjustable bushing.
Toe out, as previously mentioned, is not the best for street driving. Tram lining and your off center feel are the result you're experiencing.
Caster will increase with camber unless you also get an adjustable bushing.
Toe out, as previously mentioned, is not the best for street driving. Tram lining and your off center feel are the result you're experiencing.
Ahhh, thanks for the toe out explanation, I am going to drive it a bit more but think I will ask about reducing the front to to zero. And regarding the bushing, I had that installed as well to compensate and keep the caster in the desired range and the front wheels better situated within the wheel arch.
Caster went from 9.5 to 10.2 because of the added shims on the front LCAs (I don't have caster bushings installed).
Now... -2.1° or -2.4° camber is almost the same.... but 8.7° vs 10.2° caster is a huge difference when you have wheel turned into a corner. Stock GT4 I am sure it is 9.5°. So the question is, maybe 10.2° is too much or 8.7 is too less?
09-30-2020 | 05:10 PM
