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My GT4 is due to arrive next week. My understanding is there was a time when the alignments from the factory were coming in all over the place (including some out of spec). Is it worth asking my dealer to throw it on the rack before I take delivery to check it? Won't see any immediate track work; I'd likely have it re-aligned before venturing onto a track. Has anyone taken delivery recently and had it checked?
My GT4 is due to arrive next week. My understanding is there was a time when the alignments from the factory were coming in all over the place (including some out of spec). Is it worth asking my dealer to throw it on the rack before I take delivery to check it? Won't see any immediate track work; I'd likely have it re-aligned before venturing onto a track. Has anyone taken delivery recently and had it checked?
dealers wont normally ever do track setup nor support, so I would advise you find a local track shop that can do it properly for you.
dealers wont normally ever do track setup nor support, so I would advise you find a local track shop that can do it properly for you.
I would suggest that they ask at their dealer before taking it to a third party, he may have some very competent techs at the dealership that his car is coming into. My dealer has a fully up to date Hunter Rack and does all alignments in house including 100's of track bound cars.
Originally Posted by nobbyv
My GT4 is due to arrive next week. My understanding is there was a time when the alignments from the factory were coming in all over the place (including some out of spec). Is it worth asking my dealer to throw it on the rack before I take delivery to check it? Won't see any immediate track work; I'd likely have it re-aligned before venturing onto a track. Has anyone taken delivery recently and had it checked?
Ask your service advisor and service manager about this, it is not likely covered by warranty as IIRC it is not part of the PDI, as I mentioned above some dealers are well equipped to deal with this request. Additionally if you get it set up to factory spec's you will then have a baseline of how your GT4 handles before making changes.
My GT4 is due to arrive next week. My understanding is there was a time when the alignments from the factory were coming in all over the place (including some out of spec). Is it worth asking my dealer to throw it on the rack before I take delivery to check it? Won't see any immediate track work; I'd likely have it re-aligned before venturing onto a track. Has anyone taken delivery recently and had it checked?
Doesn't hurt, but chances are that you will have to have it re-aligned after some miles once everything settles in anyway. I waited until 1000 miles before making a street alignment.
dealers wont normally ever do track setup nor support, so I would advise you find a local track shop that can do it properly for you.
What I am asking is should I have the dealer check that it meets factory specs for a street setup as delivered, as I don't plan to track it immediately.
Originally Posted by vantage
Doesn't hurt, but chances are that you will have to have it re-aligned after some miles once everything settles in anyway. I waited until 1000 miles before making a street alignment.
Good point, I wasn't thinking about how much it might settle. I'll probably ask they check it anyway; I've actually never driven a 718 and would hate to be disappointed in the handling only to find the factory alignment was out of spec.
I took delivery of my GT4 last July, and wanted to gradually prep it for autocross. Curious what the delivered alignment was, so I paid the dealership for an alignment, just to get baseline numbers, and request as much of a autox setup as possible. The delivered specs were certainly not great, not balanced side to side, but the car drove on the streets fine. As others said, not a bad idea to drive it a bit, then check the alignment. It didn't take me long to start doing more aggressive alignments.
I took delivery of my GT4 last July, and wanted to gradually prep it for autocross. Curious what the delivered alignment was, so I paid the dealership for an alignment, just to get baseline numbers, and request as much of a autox setup as possible. The delivered specs were certainly not great, not balanced side to side, but the car drove on the streets fine. As others said, not a bad idea to drive it a bit, then check the alignment. It didn't take me long to start doing more aggressive alignments.
Thanks for sharing, I might not have expected perfection from the factory but it is sad to see it all over the place like that in the 'before' section!
The after alignment looks a heck of a lot better, most non-tracking drivers might not notice the difference but I think the exercise is worth the cost!
Get the adjustable rear toe link and aggressive alignment after 500 miles... this is the single most obvious point of failure of the car from the factory.
I would agree with driving it for a while, 500ish miles, let the springs settle in, and then get it aligned the way you want. It will likely be off like above. My ride height was also way off and it had to be corrected as well.
Hey guys and girls. So what set up do you run for your spider [stock suspension]. Camber, toe, corner weights, sway bars, etc? How low can it go? Any major changes needed, besides slicks? I've heard one notch softer front sway bar. With a 175 lbs driver. Thanks
New pads, Endless maybe me22, RSS LCA monoballs ends all round, Rear toe links and about -2.2 camber front -1.9 rear and give it a go.
Depends what you want from it, but that imo is the base bits to do and give it a go. you can spend £40k you can spend £3k so best = money as always.
Mine is a road car and I am half way to doing the above but also added OZ wheels which give more front track by 12mm also which will help turn in.
Call this stage 1 mods and the minimum you need to get round a track safe and fast with no issues.
I am keeping ARB middle / middle and the oem wheels will have PS4S tyres on for wetter use, I have cup 2 N1 spec for the OZ wheels.
Stage 2 would be a remap, headers and a set of higher end shocks and 2 piece disks. that will net you 460BHp and better chassis control, TXX, Manthey or BILSTEIN CLUBSPORTs all med to high range shocks all 3 proven to make you go faster on track.
Then the lighter disks and wheels battery etc to take some weight out.
Stage 3 is more camber and that means Caster adjustments parts all needed added, drop links, bump steer Steering parts imo not for a 718 Spyder more GT4 use. IE swap cars to GT4 or GT3.
not really just a lot more expensive ! zero brake performance advantage over a proper setup.
Cannot beat 2 piece disks with higher end pads or after market ST disks.
PCCB are just too expensive and not for track use imo, great for road use, bit cannot take track temps plus no wheel options due to bigger sizes and more risk to score your wheels with stones as the gap from caliper to wheel is too small it's just stress full. I know I scored a wheel with PCCB's.
1st mod would be swap out the PCCB's if anything for track use and put them in a box for resale.
Or if you want to keep the PCCB on get some better pads so you don't kill that £20k investment, as oem pads on track will kill your nice new CCB's
03-08-2022 | 11:36 AM
