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Hi John ...here we go again! still waiting for my car, should be here in January.
Hopefully your tune will translate into the PDK cars without major problems and I will get again the catless headers.
I got a feeling the 718 will respond very good to all the usual bolt on mods.
Yep. I have a PDK flash already too! 😈
Originally Posted by Westcoast
So you are recommending zero toe or possibly slightly negative?
No. 1mm OUT. The car comes with zero which is the problem. On the race car we flirt with toe in but for the street and for every standard cayman or 911 1mm to 1.5mm out per corner up front is gospel.
No. 1mm OUT. The car comes with zero which is the problem. On the race car we flirt with toe in but for the street and for every standard cayman or 911 1mm to 1.5mm out per corner up front is gospel.
Thanks for the clarification, I understand the principles but I am learning the how these small adjustments affect handling and tire wear. Cheers!
Thanks for the clarification, I understand the principles but I am learning the how these small adjustments affect handling and tire wear. Cheers!
In order for the toe to cause incorrect tire wear it has to be super wrong. 1mm out per corner up front. 2mm in per corner for the rear. The more toe IN the more rolling resitance and the less straight line speed and the more fuel needed to push. In a Cayman though because of the rear lower radius rod arms, you have to stay in a window whereas on a 911 if you keep jacking toe in, it will stick slightly better in the rear.
Currently installing the tach lead on the Cayman before we go to the dyno via driving the car in the 83F Florida heat. No tricks. No BS. Repetition at its best.
No. 1mm OUT. The car comes with zero which is the problem. On the race car we flirt with toe in but for the street and for every standard cayman or 911 1mm to 1.5mm out per corner up front is gospel.
It took me a little study to confirm the math conversion but if I have done it correctly and based on a 26.8" tall front tire...
From the Hunter printout, my current front setting for toe is -0.10 degree per tire which should convert to 1.19 mm out per corner, right about where you recommend.
Update: I have the catless manifolds and OPF delete from Cargraphic ready to go. I'm also driving around on the first iteration of the modified baseline tune BUT i want to go to the dyno FIRST before doing the exhaust. Shooting for over 400rwhp before looking at things like cams, porting, displacement increases etc. I want to see what the potential is for the standard Stage I bolt-on package. To me the engine feels like it revs more easily. It feels like internals are lighter / better. Makes me wonder how awesome it would be with a lightweight clutch IF it needed one. I won't know until i remove the transmission. I think i will have to keep the PSE to avoid the local sheriff. I'm sure someone will chime in about how it needs gears and yada yada yada. All of these things would make this car a screamer. One thing is for sure, the intake manifold is exactly what i would have wanted! Hang on tight...once modified and unshackled, this little thing will run! It needs more flow and a flash.
Who wants to see what dyno comparisons? And what questions are unanswered? I started reading through but then my ADD got the best of me and i drifted off.
The clutch has a way different feel. The auto blipper is less aggressive. And why oh why oh why must i re-align the front end of this thing ASAP? I've done 3 so far. My $.02, if you have one and you're scared to go over 80mph with 1 finger on the steering wheel, fix the front toe!
How would high flow cats compare with catless? I think I want to run catless, but if the power difference isn't much I would go high flow cats. I have done the OPF delete already and that is a must. It sounds so much better and drives better too. Dyno's yes! Since I didn't dyno mine before and after like I wanted to. I know a few others have done dyno's too. Do you think with a tune that the PSE button could be reprogrammed to work "correctly", as in off it is default programming and on it is always open?
As promised! Dyno run details listed in photo caption at bottom. 718 GT4 4.0L (STOCK/RED) vs. 718 GT4 4.0L (DME FLASHED/BLUE) vs. 718 GT4 4.0L (DME FLASHED + CARGRAPHIC HEADERS/OPF)
As promised! Dyno run details listed in photo caption at bottom. 718 GT4 4.0L (STOCK/RED) vs. 718 GT4 4.0L (DME FLASHED/BLUE) vs. 718 GT4 4.0L (DME FLASHED + CARGRAPHIC HEADERS/OPF)
Hi John...is that with race headers or sport headers? Also.....this was done with a COBB.....custom mapping right?
Here is 1 more since i was serious when i said i was going to hijack this thread entirely!
This is Stage 1 vs. stock for 981 and 718.
Notes: 981 Stage 1 includes IPD, filters, 82mm TB, race manifolds and a tune. 718 Stage 1 includes stock intake, equally revised exhaust (race only / stock muffler) and a tune.
BLUE - STAGE 1 718
ORANGE - STAGE 1 981
GREEN - STOCK 981 GT4
RED - STOCK 718 GT4
Thank you for the 718 updates and comparisons. Colonel Mustard is still a monster! I remember you guys at COTA with that car just destroying everything else on the track.
Do you have any comparison with 718CS intake on 3.8 9a1?
I will have to dig. It gets a little hard because of exhaust configurations. I'm using these 718 GT4 comparisons because the car has catless headers and filters removed with stock PSE. Let me dig!
Originally Posted by lovetoturn
Thank you for the 718 updates and comparisons. Colonel Mustard is still a monster! I remember you guys at COTA with that car just destroying everything else on the track.
That was when it was just a 4.0L with stock cylinder head porting and the smaller throttle body! We are up another 40rwhp at this point now! Taking it to Daytona next weekend to see if we can get well over 180mph!
Does the 718 GT4 Clubsport come with X51 heads or is the +40hp from the 3.8L purely from the intake manifold?
718 CS race car comes with intake, x51heads, cam and springs etc.
Combination of all those parts and the exhaust, help make more zingy and not doubt make that power more easily.
But you can get a huge chunk of that or more that yourself with just the intake and header/exhaust and appropriate remap on a 981
ECU optimised 718 CS puts out in the order of 450ps/440NM making power all the way to redline.
10-22-2020 | 08:13 AM
but if I have done it correctly and based on a 26.8" tall front tire...
