So, um, where are these ground points everyone is always advising me to check?
#1
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
So, um, where are these ground points everyone is always advising me to check?
Hi all,
I don't need this info yet, but I know I will one day!
I searched the forum for info on ground points, and while I found many, many people advising others to check them, I found no listings of where the ground points actually are. I found a thread wherein a member asked if there was a drawing somewhere, but they were referred to maybe the shop manuals.
So does anyone have a description/drawing/anything of where all the ground points are? It would certainly be valuable information to share! Thanks if you do!
G
I don't need this info yet, but I know I will one day!
I searched the forum for info on ground points, and while I found many, many people advising others to check them, I found no listings of where the ground points actually are. I found a thread wherein a member asked if there was a drawing somewhere, but they were referred to maybe the shop manuals.
So does anyone have a description/drawing/anything of where all the ground points are? It would certainly be valuable information to share! Thanks if you do!
G
#3
Three Wheelin'
#4
Rennlist Member
Thread Starter
Thanks very much fabric! Very helpful. Printed and filed in the binder...
Steve, yes I checked the new visitor thread - I am a responsible forum member! But like I said, I saw lots of advice to clean the ground points, but my search didn't turn up a drawing.
Steve, yes I checked the new visitor thread - I am a responsible forum member! But like I said, I saw lots of advice to clean the ground points, but my search didn't turn up a drawing.
#5
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From a link in the newbie faqs....Wally's yearly electrical PM should be in EVERY shark owners files....
Electrical
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front Harness Connection
Ground Points
Annual electrical maintenance (w/bonus items!)
Electrical Diagrams
Front Harness Connection
On the passenger's side of the engine at the front, under a black plastic cover, are a number of essential electrical connections. In addition to the batter + remote terminal and its connections (discussed elsewhere), there is a rectangular brown multipin connector. This holds the connecting pins for most sending units, the cold start equipment, and the starter and alternator. The pin sequence and cable colors are as follows:
1: BL, to Alternator B+
2: BL/BK: Oil pressure sender -
3: BL/YE: Coolant temp sender for gauge +
4: BL/WT: Oil pressure sender +
5: BL/GN: Coolant temp sender for gauge -
6: BL/BN: Engine oil level sender
7: RE/WT (2 wires) One each to the cold start valve and the auxillary air valve +.
8: Open
9: BK: A/C compressor switch
10:BK/YE: Starter
11-13: Open
14: YE (2): Lg = starter to fuse panel. Sm = To cold start valve
Ground Points
Numbered per the electrical diagrams:
Battery negative to body
Above and behind central electrical panel (2 points)
Engine to body (under passenger's side)
Left front cross member (to left of headlight motor)
Right front cross member (passenger's side beside intensive washer tank)
Under instrument panel by steering column
Under right rear side trim panel (inside)
Annual Electrical Maintenance
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.
2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the battery. Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.
3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and shiny. Dull gray won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do so. Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.
4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box. After it dries, touch up the finish as required.
5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area is clean and shiny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the chassis.
6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).
7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items. If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.
8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and reassemble.
9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.
10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.
11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness or corrosion.
12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from the alternator.
13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness. This wire triggers the starter solenoid.
14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel cover.
15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness and corrosion.
16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and corrosion.
17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them visually for damage or corrosion. Test them is desired. Later cars have a fuse tester built into one of the relays.
18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. Porsche sells a relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that works well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet metal tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF the battery is disconnected!
19) Close the panel and replace the carpet.
20) Replace the battery. Install the positive cable. Install the negative cable. Put a drop of oil on each nut. Connect the chassis end of the ground (negative) cable. Lubricate the battery box latch and close the box.
21) Lubricate the wiper drive shaft and hatch latch mechanism.
22) Clean the spare tire, jack and tools. Put a couple of large heavy plastic garbage bags in the spare tire well for emergencies, along with a tube of hand cleaner and some paper towels. Install the cover and carpet.
23) Lubricate the jack, and put it inside the tool panel. Clean and lubricate the tools. Reinstall the tool and tool panel.
24) Reset the clock and radio presets.
A couple of hours of quality time with your 928 once a year can forestall many problems.
--------------------
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com
Electrical
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Front Harness Connection
Ground Points
Annual electrical maintenance (w/bonus items!)
Electrical Diagrams
Front Harness Connection
On the passenger's side of the engine at the front, under a black plastic cover, are a number of essential electrical connections. In addition to the batter + remote terminal and its connections (discussed elsewhere), there is a rectangular brown multipin connector. This holds the connecting pins for most sending units, the cold start equipment, and the starter and alternator. The pin sequence and cable colors are as follows:
1: BL, to Alternator B+
2: BL/BK: Oil pressure sender -
3: BL/YE: Coolant temp sender for gauge +
4: BL/WT: Oil pressure sender +
5: BL/GN: Coolant temp sender for gauge -
6: BL/BN: Engine oil level sender
7: RE/WT (2 wires) One each to the cold start valve and the auxillary air valve +.
8: Open
9: BK: A/C compressor switch
10:BK/YE: Starter
11-13: Open
14: YE (2): Lg = starter to fuse panel. Sm = To cold start valve
Ground Points
Numbered per the electrical diagrams:
Battery negative to body
Above and behind central electrical panel (2 points)
Engine to body (under passenger's side)
Left front cross member (to left of headlight motor)
Right front cross member (passenger's side beside intensive washer tank)
Under instrument panel by steering column
Under right rear side trim panel (inside)
Annual Electrical Maintenance
1) Open the hatch and remove the tool panel. Remove the carpet and spare tire cover. Remove the spare, tools, etc. Open the battery box.
2) Disconnect the ground cable from the chassis. Remove the negative battery terminal. Remove the positive battery terminal. Remove the battery. Use extreme caution to avoid getting battery acid or residue from the top of the battery or cables in your eyes. Goggles are recommended. If the battery brushes against your clothes, you can end up with holes.
3) Clean the battery terminals until they are bright and shiny. Dull gray won't do. If it is possible to check the fluid level in the battery, do so. Fill to the rings. Wash the battery. Put it on a charger if possible.
4) Clean the battery box, removing all corrosion. Wash the battery box. After it dries, touch up the finish as required.
5) Clean the battery cable terminals (all three) until the connection area is clean and shiny. Dull gray won't do. Clean the connection area on the chassis.
6) Clean the speedometer/odometer drive electrical connector in the right forward corner of the spare tire well (pre-'90 models).
7) Raise the hood (bonnet). Remove the protective cap from the jump start terminal and pull the protective plastic cover from the terminal. If you are missing the cover or the cap, replace them - they are critical items. If there is no cover, water will enter the connector and corrode the connectors and wires, causing serious electrical problems.
8) If the connections are clean and tight, replace the cover and cap. If the connections show any corrosion or looseness, disassemble, clean and reassemble.
9) Jack the right front of the car so that you can SAFELY work underneath.
10) Remove the ground cable that runs from the right side of the engine to the chassis. Clean both ends of the cable, and check for corrosion in the cable. Clean the connection points, and replace the cable.
11) Check the heavy cable connection on the starter solenoid for looseness or corrosion.
12) Check the moderately heavy wires on the same connection for corrosion and breaks inside the insulation. These carry the charging current from the alternator.
13) Check the small yellow wire connection for corrosion and tightness. This wire triggers the starter solenoid.
14) Lower the car. Fold back the carpet and open the central power panel cover.
15) Check the main power connections at the top of the panel for tightness and corrosion.
16) Check the ground connections above the panel for tightness and corrosion.
17) If you are having electrical problems, remove each fuse and reinsert three times. Check the fuses for the proper value, and examine them visually for damage or corrosion. Test them is desired. Later cars have a fuse tester built into one of the relays.
18) If you feel that it is necessary, remove and reinsert each relay. This won't be easy, as they fit very tightly in some cases. Porsche sells a relay removal tool, but I am not impressed. It is basically a pair of pliers with square jaws, and will pull the relay apart. One tool that works well is a spark plug boot removal tool. It is a thin but strong sheet metal tool shaped like a "J" with the top 1/8" bent over at a right angle. You can put this angle under the bottom edge of the relay and lift it out - IF the battery is disconnected!
19) Close the panel and replace the carpet.
20) Replace the battery. Install the positive cable. Install the negative cable. Put a drop of oil on each nut. Connect the chassis end of the ground (negative) cable. Lubricate the battery box latch and close the box.
21) Lubricate the wiper drive shaft and hatch latch mechanism.
22) Clean the spare tire, jack and tools. Put a couple of large heavy plastic garbage bags in the spare tire well for emergencies, along with a tube of hand cleaner and some paper towels. Install the cover and carpet.
23) Lubricate the jack, and put it inside the tool panel. Clean and lubricate the tools. Reinstall the tool and tool panel.
24) Reset the clock and radio presets.
A couple of hours of quality time with your 928 once a year can forestall many problems.
--------------------
Wally Plumley
928 Specialists
www.928gt.com